I have a 70 Chevelle, 350 2 barrel. I have obtained the 4 barrel and intake that comes with this same engine. I am a novice when it comes to carbs. Just wondering what I have to do to install the new intake and carb. The carb is already attached to the intake. An easy job for a beginner? Any tips? Thanks much!!
4 BARREL AND MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
- Status
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
DSMITH,
I just converted from 2bbl to 4bbl with my 307/'glide. It's not a hard task, you just need to take your time and pay attention to details. I know that with my Edelbrock intake, it specifies that I couldn't use Fel-Pro Permatorque intake gaskets, I had to use Fel-Pro Printoseal intake gaskets. Be sure that when you install the gaskets that they do not move or shift, and move the intake directly above the valley and lay the intake straight down. Do not slide it in or set it down coming in from an angle. This could cause the gaskets to move. The torque specs for my aluminum intake called for 25ft-lbs. When torquing the bolts use the specified sequence, and do them at three torque increments up to 25. Like say do them all at 15ft-lbs, then at 20ft-lbs then at 25ft-lbs. Each time following the torque sequence for the bolts. For bolts that the torque wrench just won't let you do it, use a wrench and get a feel of the other properly torqued bolts and how tight they are. Use this "feel" and do the other bolts. You will need the following gaskets: Intake gasket set(intake/valley/distributor), valve cover gaskets(yes, you have to remove the valve covers to remove/install the intake). I used a little permatex on the corners where the valley gaskets met the intake gaskets, just to be sure.
I'm not sure what tranny you have, but I would imagine that you will need to change the tranny kickdown cable/rod. You will also need to change the accelerator cable and bracket, as your old one will now be about an inch short. Ausley's, www.chevelle.com , will have both the bracket and cable for about $20 @.
Good Luck!
Fred
Others may have comments/suggestions keep checking back.
![]()
[This message has been edited by Riffers70 (edited 04-26-99).]
I just converted from 2bbl to 4bbl with my 307/'glide. It's not a hard task, you just need to take your time and pay attention to details. I know that with my Edelbrock intake, it specifies that I couldn't use Fel-Pro Permatorque intake gaskets, I had to use Fel-Pro Printoseal intake gaskets. Be sure that when you install the gaskets that they do not move or shift, and move the intake directly above the valley and lay the intake straight down. Do not slide it in or set it down coming in from an angle. This could cause the gaskets to move. The torque specs for my aluminum intake called for 25ft-lbs. When torquing the bolts use the specified sequence, and do them at three torque increments up to 25. Like say do them all at 15ft-lbs, then at 20ft-lbs then at 25ft-lbs. Each time following the torque sequence for the bolts. For bolts that the torque wrench just won't let you do it, use a wrench and get a feel of the other properly torqued bolts and how tight they are. Use this "feel" and do the other bolts. You will need the following gaskets: Intake gasket set(intake/valley/distributor), valve cover gaskets(yes, you have to remove the valve covers to remove/install the intake). I used a little permatex on the corners where the valley gaskets met the intake gaskets, just to be sure.
I'm not sure what tranny you have, but I would imagine that you will need to change the tranny kickdown cable/rod. You will also need to change the accelerator cable and bracket, as your old one will now be about an inch short. Ausley's, www.chevelle.com , will have both the bracket and cable for about $20 @.
Good Luck!
Fred
Others may have comments/suggestions keep checking back.
[This message has been edited by Riffers70 (edited 04-26-99).]
Okay, I'll see if I can help.
Of course take the air cleaner off.
Disconnect the coil wire.
Then take the distributor cap off. Lay a straight edge down the center of the rotor and place a mark on the firewall. Now remove the single distributor hold-down bolt. Lift the distributor straight up/out little by little and notice that the rotor will turn as the distributor comes out. When it stops rotating but is still in the engine place the straight edge down the center of the rotor again and make another mark in the firewall. This is your reference point on where the rotor will be when you first start going back together and where it will be when fully installed.
Take the distributor all the way out, place a piece of masking tape over the rotor down to the distributor body on both sides - this is so it doesn't accidently get rotated while waiting to get re-installed.
Remove the linkage to the carburetor, and there will be other things like vacuum lines, a coil bracket, etc.
Remove the intake bolts - I think there are 12 or 16 of these? lift off the intake.
Now clean the old gasket material off the engine. I run a shop vac all around the gasket scraped area to get any little pieces lifted out of the engine.
Purchase an intake gasket kit.
I do NOT use the little end gaskets that come with the intake gasket kit.
At this point place the two main gaskets down each side of the engine and do a quick fit of the new intake manifold to see how things line up and "feel" as you lower is straight down into position. You can practice this for feel and position that works best. I would install the intake without the carburetor on.
Now remove the new intake manifold.
Now take silicone gasket sealer and run a nice bead down the ends where the little end gaskets that you are not going to use would go. Make sure the bead runs over and on to the little tab of the fiber gaskets going down each side.
I usually use two long bolts in the intake mainfold, one on opposite corners, to help me line up the intake as I carefully lower it into position. You will see when you did your trial fit above you are going down to a sloped valley surface and are balancing keeping gaskets in position and lowering it straight down to squash, not smear the silicone on each end.
Install all of the intake bolts by hand, then remove the long ones you use to assist you allignment and replace them with the correct ones.
Tighten the intake bolts after they are all installed, start in the center and move out. Starting at opposite courners I torque the bolts to specs, I think it is 15 Foot pounds. The reason I do this is to get the feel of when the bolts are torqued to specs because I end up doing the center bolts by hand - can't get my torque wrench in there so do it by "feel".
Of course hook everything back up as it was before you started. Re-time the engine when all back together and it is running okay.
I think others will help here at this site, so study the responses until you understand all of the things and it should be pretty easy for you.
John
Of course take the air cleaner off.
Disconnect the coil wire.
Then take the distributor cap off. Lay a straight edge down the center of the rotor and place a mark on the firewall. Now remove the single distributor hold-down bolt. Lift the distributor straight up/out little by little and notice that the rotor will turn as the distributor comes out. When it stops rotating but is still in the engine place the straight edge down the center of the rotor again and make another mark in the firewall. This is your reference point on where the rotor will be when you first start going back together and where it will be when fully installed.
Take the distributor all the way out, place a piece of masking tape over the rotor down to the distributor body on both sides - this is so it doesn't accidently get rotated while waiting to get re-installed.
Remove the linkage to the carburetor, and there will be other things like vacuum lines, a coil bracket, etc.
Remove the intake bolts - I think there are 12 or 16 of these? lift off the intake.
Now clean the old gasket material off the engine. I run a shop vac all around the gasket scraped area to get any little pieces lifted out of the engine.
Purchase an intake gasket kit.
I do NOT use the little end gaskets that come with the intake gasket kit.
At this point place the two main gaskets down each side of the engine and do a quick fit of the new intake manifold to see how things line up and "feel" as you lower is straight down into position. You can practice this for feel and position that works best. I would install the intake without the carburetor on.
Now remove the new intake manifold.
Now take silicone gasket sealer and run a nice bead down the ends where the little end gaskets that you are not going to use would go. Make sure the bead runs over and on to the little tab of the fiber gaskets going down each side.
I usually use two long bolts in the intake mainfold, one on opposite corners, to help me line up the intake as I carefully lower it into position. You will see when you did your trial fit above you are going down to a sloped valley surface and are balancing keeping gaskets in position and lowering it straight down to squash, not smear the silicone on each end.
Install all of the intake bolts by hand, then remove the long ones you use to assist you allignment and replace them with the correct ones.
Tighten the intake bolts after they are all installed, start in the center and move out. Starting at opposite courners I torque the bolts to specs, I think it is 15 Foot pounds. The reason I do this is to get the feel of when the bolts are torqued to specs because I end up doing the center bolts by hand - can't get my torque wrench in there so do it by "feel".
Of course hook everything back up as it was before you started. Re-time the engine when all back together and it is running okay.
I think others will help here at this site, so study the responses until you understand all of the things and it should be pretty easy for you.
John
I agree with John, this should be done with the carb off, in which case you will also need a new carb gasket, and the practice thing is a real good idea(wish I'd done that, oh well). You also need to re-torque the bolts once the engine is at operating temperature for about 30 minutes.
The only thing I can add is to make sure you use a good thread sealer on the bolts, I can say only good about ARP's. If you don't you'll always have a minor seep at the center bolts( they're tapped through to the valley). I would also suggest you consider a set of 12 point small head bolts, they look trick and they are sure easier to get to on those 4 center positions.
Tom
Tom
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!