I think we were all wary of using one of these the first time. Then, when nothing bad happened, it just becomes another tool that works well.
Think about those threads: add up all the surface area of all the threads in all 4 holes, and you have a pretty stout connection from plate to engine.
You won't pull the threads if you use bolts that engage them to a decent depth, increasing the surface area.
Or, think about it this way: the traditional engine pull w/chains uses brackets attached to the engine with a total of 4 bolts, same as the lift plate. Nobody sweats that.
Even worse: bolting the chains directly to the engine, front of one head and the back of another, only uses 2 bolts, and those are loaded in shear. People do that all the time and never give it a thought.
The carb pad bolts tend to give you the image of light duty, since they "only" hold a carb down, not a hard job to do.
Aluminum is a lot stronger than most people think. Sure you can strip the threads, but that is from major torque, not from a stretch/pull, like the bolts see when a lift plate is used.
I pulled my brand-new ZZ454 and Super T-10 as a unit from my Camaro using a lift plate. I also pulled my all-steel 454/trans using the same lift plate.
I was more concerned about the crummy chinese cylinder gushing hydraulic oil all over the ground under the hoist.
My motto: No Chinese Parts on my American Car.