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ok here's my delema i have the 355 shorty built by someone else (don't really trust it) and it has a touch of a rust stain on the crank under 1 bearing. im buying a set of 441 full port heads 2.02/150 swirled screw in studs the works from a fella here

he has a 355 block totally worked (none of his stuff has been used yet keep in mind) 400 crank,400 rods and 350 pistons dished for low compression, this was going to be a blown 383.

what im thinking is buying his block,crank and rods and using my KB pistons to give me 9.6-1 (verses my 355 at 8.9) but i would have to use his short 400 rods.

most people use 5.7 or 6 rods for stroker apps. will i have any problems if i use the shorter rods??? and what is a good price for the block,crank,rods,(may have to buy pistons he has since they are on the rods already) i could use the cam etc. from my other 355 and sell the remaining block,etc.

sorry it's soo long but im figuring if im gunna do it my self i may as well take my time and do it RIGHT the first time

ps my pistons are the 120's w/thicker rings
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members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/chevelle9.jpg members.aol.com/jnkb2cool/350.jpg
John Krenn
1970 malibu SS look-a-like well kinda
307/200-4r (soon to be 355)

Ft.Worth, Tx


[This message has been edited by chev-hell (edited 12-19-1999).]

[This message has been edited by chev-hell (edited 12-19-1999).]
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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I'd go ahead and run the 5.565 rods, I don't think there's much advantage to the longer rods on the street. Short rods may produce more usable torque at typical street RPM's which generally run under 4000. The difference in length between 5.7 and 5.565 is only about 2.5%, I just don't believe this critical for a street engine. As far as the cylinder wall loading, I ran the numbers on a computer at ASU Engineering school and whle I don't have the printout anymore, I think it was less than 5%.

Some of the guys have turned this long rod deal into sort of a religious-type belief, you might get some flak from them about the 400 rod deal, just tell them you're running the 6", it's kind of hard to see once the engine is built....


With those iron heads I recommend you think seriously about keeping the C.R. under 9.5, the gas is not going to get better over the next few years.

Tom
 

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TomMob you are the man! The long rod deal is out of hand. In an ALL OUT racing application I have no doubt that a longer rod would be superior, but for an average 383 or 400 they do complicate the buildup (cam to rod interference) and add to the cost. If they were that hard on cylinder walls Chevrolet would never have built them that way in the first place. Besides, how many early 70's Impala's an Caprice's with 400's went well over 100k and had cylinder walls that would clean up at .030". We're building them up everyday.
 

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Rods will affect compression slightly...with the same pistons and heads, the shorter rods will make less compression 'cause they don't put the piston up as far...
 

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John,

I just put my 383 together this past week. I am running the 6" rods. My combo will see 7200+ RPM shifts(BIG, BIG AFR heads, BIG Crane roller cam, ported Team G intake, 1024 CFM BG carb, 1-7/8" headers, etc. etc.) I had to grind the hell out of the block for clearance. (I put the motor together and took it apart 5 times) I had to beat the hell out of my Moroso deep sump 7 quart pan, and make swiss cheese out of my windage tray. My point in all this is, if you are building a street driver(<5500 RPM) that will only see a little strip action just for kicks - save yourself some headache and build the short rod stroker. My dad has one in his '74 Vette and it is no slouch by any stretch of the imagination. I didn't have any trouble putting it together. Just some very minor clearance work to the block. Better yet, just build the 400.

Good Luck,

Jason Gore
AKA DragRacer
[email protected]
 
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