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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alrighty,

Just rebuilt the block (Bored 060, new pistons, bearings, camshaft/lifters, surfaces decked) and got a new Melling MTC1 RV cam and new lifters in my 327. Everything is in the engine and in the car. During assembly, everything was put together with corresponding lube procedures so the lobes stay lobey and not roundy. My biggest question is this: who on here has used this cam with success and what timing did you run on initial startup/break-in. My cam card only came with the procedure for break in and I think the timing specs were on the outside of the box however the box ended up getting soaked in a monsoon while being delivered (SPU spelled backwards) and nothing is legible. Any help is much appreciated!

Thank you,

Bryce
 

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Melling MTC-1 Chevy 305 327 350 RV Torque cam

Products specifications
Advertised Duration 278 int./288 exh.
Advertised Exhaust Duration 288
Advertised Intake Duration 278
Basic Operating RPM Range Idle-4,500
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Duration at 050 inch Lift 204 int./214 exh.
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 214
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.433 in.
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 204
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.420 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Quantity Sold individually.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.420 int./0.433 exh.
Valve Springs Required Yes

what are you running for springs ?? Z28 type for this mild cam?
there are many suggestions for breaking in a cam these days,
use good oil,
12* initial advance
run for 20-30 minutes at 2000+rpm with no WOT, but vary engine rpm up to 3000 every so often..
it needs to start on the first few rotations
so carb needs to be primed, ready to run...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what are you running for springs ?? Z28 type for this mild cam?
there are many suggestions for breaking in a cam these days,
use good oil,
12* initial advance
run for 20-30 minutes at 2000+rpm with no WOT, but vary engine rpm up to 3000 every so often..
it needs to start on the first few rotations
so carb needs to be primed, ready to run...

Thank you for the specs Vince. The springs are Z28 indeed. I have the oil and the additive for the next few oil changes, which I have used before on other engines. Now just to find some time this week to start it up and break this thing back in. Then maybe a cruise up to Mt. Lemmon!
 

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Alrighty,

Just rebuilt the block (Bored 060, new pistons, bearings, camshaft/lifters, surfaces decked) and got a new Melling MTC1 RV cam and new lifters in my 327. Everything is in the engine and in the car. During assembly, everything was put together with corresponding lube procedures so the lobes stay lobey and not roundy. My biggest question is this: who on here has used this cam with success and what timing did you run on initial startup/break-in. My cam card only came with the procedure for break in and I think the timing specs were on the outside of the box however the box ended up getting soaked in a monsoon while being delivered (SPU spelled backwards) and nothing is legible. Any help is much appreciated!

Thank you,

Bryce
Hi Bryce, may be a bit late with this info but I'll pass it along to you anyway!

The Melling cams work fine, we use them often, BUT we NEVER use the break-in lube supplied UNLESS it is the original "Moly" lube. Most times we toss the supplied lubes and continue with the "Moly" paste! This applies to Comp, Crane, etc, etc!

(Add) This is an extremely important tip DURING the break-in period on all flat-tappet builds, I would recommend drawing a "Magic-Marker" line vertically on ALL the pushrods and watching them very closely during the break-in, they MUST be spinning, it can be slow or fast, doesn't matter, but all 16 MUST be spinning.

As of today I can't recall the last "flat-lobe" we experienced from the break-in time. Most are done on the dyno though which makes it a lot easier!

On a final note, after breaking in the cam I would cut the filter open and it inspect it very closely, open up the element entirely and look for any debris??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We've been supplying many of the local builders in my area with small containers of the "Moly" lube. Years ago we used the ARP lube to break in all our cams, when they changed to the "graphite-based" lube we stopped. At that time though I bought all the "Moly" from them that I figured I would need to last us here?
 
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wasnt the stuff Isky used to include moly? Remember it being good stuff that red stuff from comp never had good luck with it

Reg break in sure he will be fine. Small cam no crazy ramps etc

Carl can one even buy the GM lifters anymore? Sure would like to pick up a couple sets in case.
 

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wasnt the stuff Isky used to include moly? Remember it being good stuff that red stuff from comp never had good luck with it

Reg break in sure he will be fine. Small cam no crazy ramps etc

Carl can one even buy the GM lifters anymore? Sure would like to pick up a couple sets in case.

Yes those DELPHI are still available I use alot of them in my circle track builds with P-55 cam cores and no problems to date.

U.S. Lubricants makes a lube for cams I use and seems to work very good it can be bought though Manley Performance.

To the OP

Gary does not have a shop and does not do what I do every day but a cam core that is not a P-55 cam core is not as good of core check with any cam grinder out there.
 

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Bryce - run it out to Marana and visit Philip!

If it breaks down, he can fix anything.... on Mt. Lemmon, you are stuck with a tow (don't ask me how I know this....)
 

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That's the same cam I'm running in my 66. Flat top 350, smog heads, performer intake, 750 3310 holley? Headers. Runs great with 3.08 gears and a 4 speed. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gary,

Will do on cutting open the filter. I already have the next 3 oil changes so no excuses there!

Mike,

Just dreaming there for a bit... Going to stick to my little section of Catalina for the time being, although Marana isn't too far away and I understand Philip is the man, especially for wagons out here.

Jim,

How is the idle on that 350? Does it pull decent vacuum?
 

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Bryce - Ha! Catalina? I lived on Admiral Place for a couple of years.... the weird chicken coop I built is still standing! And that was built 36 years ago!

Small world!
 

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Car idles great. No idea on the vacuum. I went with manual discs so I didn't have to deal with the booster. Eventually I want a big block so I didn't want to deal with valve covers hitting the booster. Jim
 
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