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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the MSD positive, the positive for the alternator and the fuse box line going to the positive lug on the starter. Instead of 3 connectors can I just put all 3 cables into one connector to hook to the starter lug. It will make it easier and neater.
 

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I replied in your other post but here it is again:

Could you run the alternator output wire to the battery, the MSD to the battery, the main feed for the fuse block to the battery and then just have one cable going down to the starter from the battery ?.

Any wire off of the source of power needs protection on it and you may be running fusible links down by the starter on those smaller wires but if they ever blow, it might be a paint to get down there and replace them VS if the wires are at the battery things might be easier to get at ?.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I replied in your other post but here it is again:

Could you run the alternator output wire to the battery, the MSD to the battery, the main feed for the fuse block to the battery and then just have one cable going down to the starter from the battery ?.

Any wire off of the source of power needs protection on it and you may be running fusible links down by the starter on those smaller wires but if they ever blow, it might be a paint to get down there and replace them VS if the wires are at the battery things might be easier to get at ?.

Jim

battery is in the trunk. The wires are pretty easy to get to on the starter. Thanks. Just want to know if I can put all 2 wires into one connector then attach it to the starter lug.
 

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battery is in the trunk. The wires are pretty easy to get to on the starter. Thanks. Just want to know if I can put all 2 wires into one connector then attach it to the starter lug.
You can put all of the wires on one connector but the individual wires need to be protected should they become shorted and a short from the unprotected side of a fuse or fusible link offers no protection except that the wire might possibly melt apart and disconnect from power.

How are those wires currently protected down by the starter ?.

Just like on the main cable off of the battery in the trunk going up to the starter, you should have a fuse on it back at the battery.

Sorry but I didn't know you had the battery in the trunk and like anything else the more info provided, the better the answers. I'm guilty too sometimes of thinking people know what my car is like but not everyone does.

One more things is I wondered what you might be working on and clicked onto your photobucket link but it's not working.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can put all of the wires on one connector but the individual wires need to be protected should they become shorted and a short from the unprotected side of a fuse or fusible link offers no protection except that the wire might possibly melt apart and disconnect from power.

How are those wires currently protected down by the starter ?.

Just like on the main cable off of the battery in the trunk going up to the starter, you should have a fuse on it back at the battery.

Sorry but I didn't know you had the battery in the trunk and like anything else the more info provided, the better the answers. I'm guilty too sometimes of thinking people know what my car is like but not everyone does.

One more things is I wondered what you might be working on and clicked onto your photobucket link but it's not working.

Jim

I have a 67 GTO thats backhalfed with a 540 Chevy in it. All the wires have fusible links in them except the MSD. And I have had batteries in the trunk and have never seen a fuse for that. I don't think I ever saw one in someone else's car.
 

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While you can do this with the correct terminal based on total wire diameter, I would not. Most GM cars have a power stud or buss on the horn relay and some have an additional power distribution stud on the radiator support. I would only run wires to the starter that are necessary to its operation. I posted to your other thread also.
 

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I have a 67 GTO thats backhalfed with a 540 Chevy in it. All the wires have fusible links in them except the MSD. And I have had batteries in the trunk and have never seen a fuse for that. I don't think I ever saw one in someone else's car.
Sounds like a neat ride.

Yep, I just hate seeing what happens when an unprotected wire shorts out like on a battery circuit and it seeing hundreds of amps being fed into it from a car battery.

Yep, years ago I never gave any thought about fusing a main battery cable but now try and spread the word that it is needed.

Look at some of the new cars like the 2019 Camaro with the factory trunk battery. They now have fuses on them:





From a Jag manual with it's trunk mounted battery and starter fusing:





This was a poorly done trunk battery install that who knows what happened but if it was a short, a properly placed fuse could have prevented that damage. And if it was from a battery venting, the vents should have been to the exterior of the car as well as the enclosure being stronger.



Oh an unprotected battery cable in a Camaro running at Dragweek. These guys were driving down the road to the next strip when the interior filled with smoke from the electrical short:



The above pictures story starting at around 3:53:03


Love how he had to put the fire out with his hands right next to the fuel cell. They then ran jumper cables taped to the outside of the car to continue on.

Jim

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I have a 67 GTO thats backhalfed with a 540 Chevy in it. All the wires have fusible links in them except the MSD. And I have had batteries in the trunk and have never seen a fuse for that. I don't think I ever saw one in someone else's car.
Good luck running that wire the length of the car with no fuse AND what’s the disadvantage of throwing a fuse/breaker on it?
 

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I just went to Jegs and kicked in ANL fuse and got these results:


Then went to Summit with these results:


Now the next question will probably be what size. The fuse is sized to the wire gauge and hopefully it is sized right for the load.

I do like the ANL style fuses and holders to where if you make one cable a little longer than needed, should the fuse blow, and you don;t have a spare BUT have corrected the overload issue's then one can unbolt the one cable from the one stud and join it to the other stud and cable basically bypassing the fuse.

I've also bought a marine style cube fuse and holder but have yet to install it or try it out in a customer's car.


Depending on wire gauge, there at 60A up to 500A ANL style fuses out there but also when shopping be aware there are also ANN ones too that have the same footprint and one is a slower reacting fuse and the other a quicker blowing style.

You just have to do the research as to your needs.

Jim
 

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Thanks for posting the marine style cube fuses. I’ve never seen them before. Which one are you contemplating using? Please post results.
 

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Thanks for posting the marine style cube fuses. I’ve never seen them before. Which one are you contemplating using? Please post results.
When I came across these style fuses I found out there were a couple choices for the holder and how the actual holder and design of this fuse actually works.

The one I chose for a customer is this one:




The reason for this style was the customer has a side post battery that we can then bolt the tab off of this style to the battery post and then attach the cable to the stud of the fuse assembly that would then get covered with the red boot.

My thinking is the person I'm doing this for could if needed unbolt the fuse assembly off of the battery, then take the cable end off of the stud portion of the fuse holder and then be able to bolt the cable to the battery to get him on his way (providing he figures out why the fuse blew because if a short still exists then without a fuse and the cable connected directly to the battery will have it arcing badly while trying to make the connection).

The above holder design seemed more forgiving on how things get assembled than the style of holder that require a stepped isolation washer being in the proper position for the fuse holder and fuse to work properly.

I saw this article below which someone brought up how the holder works like what I have pictures above:


There are also the styles out there that hold multiple cube fuses and holders that will bolt onto top post battery terminals.

While currently I have not installed the cube fuse and holder in the customers car, once it gets back from upholstery I will install it and add the pictures to this album:


Also in the above album are pictures I've gathered of unprotected cabling, melted down batteries, and other things and to me not fusing the main feed is like not protecting the main feed in your breaker panel.

Being in the car audio business, I've run many a 1/0 cable from an underhood battery to an amp in the trunk and NEVER would any decent installer NOT fuse that cable. Doing so is just careless. What people are doing with putting the battery in the trunk and running a 1/0 cable to the front is no different. You have to protect things. Are fuses or breakers the total answer, NO they are not BUT they can work protecting a cable if properly implemented and be better than no fuse at all. I still get a kick out of people thinking a master on/off switch is just as good. Good luck turning that off if you get in a bad enough accident and get knocked out and the accident causes the main cable to become shorted.

Jim
 
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