About a week ago I started hitting 220-230 degrees and I started the 69 chevelle (350) up and warmed it up...240 and i am sure it will keep climbing. What is the most common thing to lead to this other than rad fluid? Therm. gauge not calibrated? water pump? I appreciate any helpful comments. Also, I used to idle at 900ish and now it is barely at 500 and i am lucky if it doesnt shut off the engine.
240 degrees!
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fan shroud? is it a clutch fan?
My elco started seeing higher water temp readings when the clutch fan went bad on it.
Matt
My elco started seeing higher water temp readings when the clutch fan went bad on it.
Matt
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1,068 Posts
Need More info from you about this.Timing checked?,thermostat stuck shut?,Bottom radiator hose collasping?,Bad clutch for fan,Over rich or too lean carb? Clogged radiator?.Many basic things can come into play here.
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Could be a blown head gasket, too with the idle change - but that may be a result, not the core problem.
I just recently started having this problem after i had a mechanic tune my carb because it was way too lean. They adjusted it and ever since i got it back it idles at 4-5oo RPM, as for the clutch and everything else listed i am going to have to check on that right now and come back with the results. Keep in mind this is my first classic car and have had it for only a month now. I am trying to learn more and more everyday via internet research, magazines and talking with local mechanics.
Just checked out the engine and there is one thing that caught my eye, I have a hose that goes from intake manifold to the water pump and the hose looks too long because it has a kink in it. This may be the issue, however could this also be causing me to idle so low or does that have to do with the carb. mainly?
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Steve, the low idle is probably just the idle screw on the side of the carburetor. The kink in the hose I would think definitely could mess with the cooling
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Idle speed screw:
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The kink in that hose shouldn't cause it to overheat, as once the thermostat opens it's not needed. However, it could be helping to trap air in the intake, which may be why you're getting such a high reading.
Let's assume you have trapped air - it's an easier fix than reworking that PITA hose. Pull your thermostat and drill a couple of small holes in it to allow air to pass and give it another try. Also, many of those thermostats fail right out of the box, either don't open or open early - might want to test it in a pan of hot water before putting it back in.
The kink in that hose shouldn't cause it to overheat, as once the thermostat opens it's not needed. However, it could be helping to trap air in the intake, which may be why you're getting such a high reading.
Let's assume you have trapped air - it's an easier fix than reworking that PITA hose. Pull your thermostat and drill a couple of small holes in it to allow air to pass and give it another try. Also, many of those thermostats fail right out of the box, either don't open or open early - might want to test it in a pan of hot water before putting it back in.
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Do your self a favor .. gut the t/stat and run as a restrictor plate in you only run in warm weather .
dang china t/ststs giving folks problems more and more on this site .
Don
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Don, I agree that there seems to be more & more failures that we've been hearing about.
Having said that, would a restrictor plate be acceptable for someone with a summer only car, such as those in the northern US & Canada?
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Dan
If you think about the job of the t/stat to bring up warm up temps quickly then open ..in most cases if your running in 70 degree weather a 180 stat will repain open for most of your driving ... GM. in there wisdom know what size to make the hole in the plate so with the stat open you may run a ballanced temp .
now if your driving in 30 or 40 degree temps it may modulate to keep the block at correct temps .. my thoughts are .. try gutting a unit and see where your temps go .. yes warm up may be 5 min rather then 3 min .. but running as a restrictor plate alone may eliminate 3 problems .. 1 a stuck stat while on the road ..big head ache ..2 not opening fully , causing hi temps at cruise ..3 not opening at correct temps .. I have read alot of post here In reguards to hi temps .. after chasing down a mird of thing it came down to a crappy 10 dollar t/stat .
that would be the first thing to look at .
just my 2 cents
Don
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