Chevelles.com banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I am new to classic car care and have a 67 velle with 20 year old paint. I would say that it is a good 15 footer at best. I don’t have new paint job anywhere in my plans or budget. I wold like some guidance on what products to use for washing and waxing this car to keep it a good 15 footer for as long as possible. Side note——— I honestly have no clue about waxing a car and have no equipment for the job. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.———
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Is this a mostly garaged car? Something like Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine would be great for a car that only gets dust and bugs. Use the rinseless wash mixture when it's dirty, and mix some up into quick detailer for removing light dust.
https://optimumcarcare.com/product/optimum-no-rinse-wash-shine1

Just about any carnauba wax or sealer will work for protecting your paint. Also Check the paint when it's clean with a plastic bag on your hand, if it doesn't feel smooth and easily glide you may want to look into hitting the car with a clay bar.

Is the paint single stage (rather than basecoat/clearcoat) and fading?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yes this car will always be garaged. As for the paint I have no idea if it’s single stage or not. Does not appear to be fading at all. I will have to ask someone what kind of paint job it is. Thanks for the reply and I will look for that optimum no rinse wash and shine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
If your not interested in buying some products and tools to buff and polish it, then I'd go with a detail shop that will do paint correction type of work. They will be (should be) the guys that are the most careful with the paint. Too aggressive and you can burn right thru 20 year old paint. If you want to learn and invest in a decent buffer and some products, check out the autogeek website. They have tons of how to videos to help someone get started and learn the basics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok update..... I used the clay bar and then waxed the trunk lid just to see how it would go. The results are fantastic. Nice shine and the trunk lid is smooth as glass. Thanks for all your replies. Only problem now is I have to do the rest of the car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,596 Posts
With an older paint job you might want to look into polish or possibly swirl remover. Best applied with random orbital and correct pad. Wax is a sealer and most don’t last long. Watch some detailing videos.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rosinbluth

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,160 Posts
I see the word "Ceramic" being throw around lately, mostly on new product lines by the usual detailing products.

Anything different about this stuff, or just a marketing tool?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,854 Posts
I took me 6+ coats of wax w/ glaze every 3 to get near a ceramic type finish, so like everything else these days, its a shortcut. I'll see if my #26 wax gets close at 9 coats!

Ryan, I also have q 20 yr old paint job, that I had applied ( by pros). This year, I had a pro buff it out. Prepped it by washing the car wet ( which is usually NOT done) with dish soap to cut all the wax off, then clay bar'd it.

After the polish job, the pro told me to wax the heck out of it. 3 coats then glaze, three coats then glaze. I'm on coat 6.

The OTR drivers in the Marlyland Chevelle CLub taught me years ago to NOT wash our cars. we use microfibers and quick detailer to keep them clean. Every few years, you have to clay bar it to get all the residue off and start anew.

So since Old Red had a bath in 2020, he wont get one again until 2022. Sort of like my dingo dog. :)

These old cars have the "river runs thru it" door drains; anymore I try to never let the river run thru them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Agree with above. A full paint detail for me is wash with dawn to remove any waxes or oils, then you can use an iron remover, which dissolves metallic particles. Then clay bar, then alcohol wipe, then compound and polish, alcohol wipe again, then I use sealer as opposed to wax, unless it's like a show car, then I use sealer and top it with a premium wax like Pinnacle Brilliance. Polish and compound I like to use Sonax, but CSI has my attention, so I'll try that soon. The sealer I like best is Jescar Powerlock, topped with Collinite Insulator 845 wax or Pinnacle Wax. For me and my wifes daily drivers, I use McKees 37 HydroBlue about every other wash. It's one of those spray on wet and rinse off ceramic based sealers. Helps keep the water beading and bugs come off little easier with it. Tires I use McKees 37 Tire and Rubber rejuvenation, it leaves a nice deep clean black, without the wet and greasy look, and lasts a good while.
I don't do ceramic coatings. To me, they are much like a wipe on clear coat. You really hafta know what your doing to apply them correctly. I'm sure they are good, and last a long time, but I like to do the detailing stuff on my cars, and I use my own daily to test new products when I want to, so ceramic isn't a fit for me.
I like to buy Meguires D155 Last Touch Detailer by the gallon, then mix with water in my own spray bottle. Works good for wipe downs, door jambs, and nooks and crannies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
I see the word "Ceramic" being throw around lately, mostly on new product lines by the usual detailing products.

Anything different about this stuff, or just a marketing tool?
A true ceramic coating is applied on a properly prepared paint. It goes on as a clear coating and dries to a hard layer of protection. As for anything other than that, that may include ceramic in their title, I dunno. Maybe they have nano particles of ceramic in them. I'd say more is for marketing, but I'd believe they have some sort of ceramic additive in them, how much would be the unknown.
I don't buy much from wal marts or local parts stores. Everything I use is detailer level, so I get from Autogeek or Amazon. Advanced Auto has started to carry Griots and McKees37, which are both good, but not at my local Advanced Auto yet. The only thing I'll buy from my local wal mart is Meguires Gold Class car wash. Anything turtle wax or Armor all, I don't touch, and never will. :thumbsup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,596 Posts
A full paint detail for me is wash with dawn to remove any waxes or oils, then you can Polish and compound I like to use Sonax, but CSI has my attention, so I'll try that soon. The sealer I like best is Jescar Powerlock, topped with Collinite Insulator 845 wax or Pinnacle Wax.
X2 on the above. Ive been using Collinite for years and recently tried Jescar Powerlock and Sonax. I have morphed into pretty much just using wax (Collinite) on the Chevelle as it doesnt last very long on vehicles that are driven regularly. IMO sealer is the way to go there.
As far as washing a vehicle with water and a quality car soap I have been doing it forever and see nothing wrong with it. Now the Chevelle doesnt get washed that often as it doesnt get that dirty but maybe gets washed twice a year. Not to say I am not carefull with the water. I dont go aiming the pressurized water stream at the moldings but with a slight bit of caution I see no reason not to. The way most classic cars are pampered they will never rust from washing with water. With the non classic vehicles full steam ahead. If they are going to sit for a while after washing then I will take them on a short drive when all finished to blow out any trapped water. Just my 2 cents.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top