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The 302-3 is a little shallower in the front than the 302-2, and also has provisions for turbo oil drains on both side and can accommodate up to a 4" stroker crank.

Andrew
Yes, I was aware of the stoke clearance and the turbo drain back but was unaware of the extra tie rod clearance. That would be a benefit for me, my tie rods just barely tough with the 302-2 pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Yes, I was aware of the stoke clearance and the turbo drain back but was unaware of the extra tie rod clearance. That would be a benefit for me, my tie rods just barely tough with the 302-2 pan.
Are you using the Holley engine mounts? Which transmission mount?

Andrew
 

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Holley engine mounts and Holley cross member modified to work with my boxed frame.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Holley engine mounts and Holley cross member modified to work with my boxed frame.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
Looking at the 302-2 and the 302-3, it looks like they are the same dimensions in the front.

Andrew
 
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Andrew, did you rotate the crank to ensure the weights and rod ends clear the windage tray? Just asking.....
I did not. This say tray has been in the engine since day one, so I had no reason to suspect interference between the crank and the windage tray. This engine has a stock stroke.

Andrew
 
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Yesterday I sorted out the push rod situation.

I started the check preload on #1 cylinder and things didn't add up, because as I tightened the rocker bolt the valves started to open...hum...:hmm:

Then I remembered that something similar was happening when I did the cam install on the Cougar. A little more digging around and consulting a buddy that knows more about this than I do, and it all started to make sense.

So in fact, when the cam and crank are lined up dot to dot, this is #1 cylinder on the overlap stroke. My buddy confirmed this. Since #1 is on overlap, this means that #6 is on the compression stroke.

Here you can clearly see that the #1 lifters are not on the base circle.





Here is a comparison between the old 7.400" pushrods on the right and the Summit 7.425" pushrods on the left. The tips appear to be a little smaller on the Summit pushrods, so I think their effective length falls somewhere between 7.400" and 7.425". None of this really matters because what I am after is 1.5 turns from zero lash to full torque spec on the rocker bolts.



I made some marks on the balancer bolt for reference. I really should have done this before I installed the front cover. 🔨



In any case, I started with #6, and the Summit Racing 11/32 7.425" pushrods ended up giving me the best preload.



Then I rotated the engine 90 degrees and followed the firing order for all subsequent cylinders. Once I got the technique down for finding zero lash, the preload readings were pretty consistent with 1.5 turns on the intake valves and about 1.6 turns on the exhaust valves.

I am calling that done and sorted.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
It feels good to be putting stuff back together instead of taking things apart.

This is a new LS3 style valley cover. I really like the internal baffling to keep oil out of the intake.





These are the tall Holley valve covers in red. These will add a touch of color and the red is almost a perfect match to the color of the car.







Just cleaned up the coils and will probably get some ARP stainless bots for the coils.



Andrew
 
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Ordered a balancer installed tool the other day and it came this morning. So I was able to install the hub of the ATI balancer that comes with the deluxe Holley mid-mount accessory drive kit.



Then the balancer ring gets bolted to the hub. The ATI balancer is a really nice piece.



I didn't torque the balancer bolt yet, and I am not exactly sure if it is on all the way. This was as far as it would go with the installer tool. Hopefully it is fully seated.



Also got new injector 0-rings...



and new intake manifold gaskets. The old ones were in good shape, but I figured it can't hurt.



The intake manifold cleaned up nicely...



Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
This is the lube that I like to use for injector o-rings.



Also received some ARP stainless header bolts.



Added an Earl's fuel rail adapter. I like this style because it has metal retaining tabs inside and a secondary retention clip.



Looks like Holley revised their injector harness and they are now adding heat shrink labels on the cylinders.



I played around with different routing for the injector harness and I like something like this, on the inside of the rail. I have some different P clamps coming to secure the harness to the studs that hold the fuel rail.



I didn't like how the injectors had about 4 inched of exposed wire, so I used some Tessa harness tape to protect them a little more. Plus this makes the wires blend in.



The coil harness will be retained by the little clips on the rails. I have an assortment of those clips on the way.



Andrew
 
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Very nice looking job Andrew!

I watched a rerun of Fast n Loud last night. The one with the 68 red Camaro for Sonic Burger getting an LS3. They had to pull the motor a second time due to the fact that the rods and crank were hitting the windage tray. They just slapped the engine together and once they fired it up it started knocking. Once they got the oil pan off and the windage tray out they found they forgot to "modify" the tray for the oil pan they had. That was a live and learn for them. Anyway, just some trivia...
 
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