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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We are far enough into the 1970 Chevelle Legend700 5 Speed install to post pictures and answer questions. As a '70 Chevelle owner, I am very pleased how well the Legend700 fit within the tunnel.

Today's new type high performance transmissions need a precision bellhousing alignment, the Legend700 is no exception. If needed, you will need to correct the parallel bellhousing alignment before you attempt to correct the concentric alignment. See the "Bell Housing dial in" post in the sticky section above, it includes my bellhousing alignment procedure.

To date, I have done at least 30+ QuickTime bellhousing alignment checks and 90% of them needed shims between the bellhousing and engine block to correct the parallel alignment. Do not be fooled by any manufacture advertising a precision made bellhousing that does not require indexing. All bellhousings should be checked with a dial indicator for proper alignment, do not use any gimmick alignment tools.

I started this post "Legend700 5 Speed Candy" a few motnths ago: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651178

Here is the Legend700 unit we will be installing into the 1970 Chevelle. I will be here to answer any questions about the install.
 

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Re: !970 Chevelle Legend700 5 Speed Install

Fantastic!

I look forward to following along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: !970 Chevelle Legend700 5 Speed Install

Look forward to the install Jody.

By the way, I see your name in the Muscle Car Review magazine. December issue page 56.
Yes, that was a Muncie concourse restoration I did for Scott Walters and his beautiful RAM AIR IV GTO. Scoring 997 out of 1000 points is pretty impressive at the Musclecar and Corvette Nationals. He spent a lot of money restoring that rare car.

Unfortunately, Scott recently sold his girl and misses her already!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Before we start the Legend700 installation, there are a few important checks we do to eliminate problems down the road. These extra steps should be checked with any transmission installation. These extra steps will net higher RPM shifts and a much smoother running driveliine.

Mounting the flywheel to measure the wobble and runout are 1st things on the list.
Industry Standard Flywheel Specifications
Flywheel Wobble: +/-.002" or .004" TIR
Flywheel Runout: +/-.002" or .004" TIR

The first picture shows how to measure the flywheel wobble, the dial indicator plunger is reading the clutch disc surface as you rotate the engine 360*.

The second picture shows how to measure the flywheel runout, the dial indicator plunger is reading the outer edge surface as you rotate the engine 360*.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jim, Good question.......

I apply rearward pressure to the crankshaft as I rotate it. Usually after three revolutions the crankshaft is at zero endplay on the rear main bearing. Then you just need to keep applying rearward pressure as you rotate the crankshaft checking the bellhousing parallel alignment.

Wherever your "zero" reference is with your dial indicator, make sure it is "zero" after your 360* rotation. This will verify your crankshaft did not have any axial float movement off the rear main bearing.

My Personal Alignment Tip: I always try to do the bellhousing alignment as soon as the crankshaft is fitted into the engine block. I then rotate the engine with the installed crankshaft in the verticle position. Support the engine and the mounted bellhousing will be on the topside. This eliminates any crankshaft float to check the parallel alignment. Plus, without the pistons and rods installed, you can easily spin the crankshaft and do the entire bellhousing alignment by yourself.
 

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If the flywheel is found to have a wobble or run out, wouldn't one also have to verify that the crank flange itself is true, or is the assumption made that it is true?

What are your preferred parts for the bell housing shims and alignment dowels?

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the flywheel is found to have a wobble or run out, wouldn't one also have to verify that the crank flange itself is true, or is the assumption made that it is true?

What are your preferred parts for the bell housing shims and alignment dowels?

Dan
We are assuming the crankshaft flange is true, if not, you have a serious issue at hand.

If a flywheel is out of the wobble spec, then by all means indicate the crankshaft flange to verify what is out.

I buy industrial shims sizes by the 100's and can offer a multi shim kit that is very cost effective than buying them yourself. Industrial shims are usually sold in packs of 10, most jobs only need two of each shim size.

I only use the set screw locking type offset dowel pins such as the RobbMc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, hopefully your flywheel is within spec or better.

Now you can now install the blocksaver plate, bellhousing, and torque all bellhousing to engine fasteners to specs. Then mount your dial indicator to read the mounting face of the bellhousing. See my picture reference in this sticky....... http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=659650
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
PLEASE NOTE: A precision bellhousing alignment needs to be done for all manual transmission installations, not just the Legend700 unit.

I hear this a lot and read about guys stating, "I have a Muncie and the bellhousing alignment doesn't need to be done". Hard facts, a pilot bushing doesn't know or care what transmission is behind it. If your bellhousing alignment is out of spec, it will prematurely wear out the pilot bushing. Most manual transmission shifting problems are related to bellhousing mis-alignment. Other issues; clutch fork geometry, bad clutch releasing, and or a clutch adjustment.

Maybe you blueprinted your original engine for your musclecar. Guess what, your engine builder line bored the crankshaft main bearing caps. Line-boring the engine crankshaft bore will change the crankshaft location and put your bellhousing out of alignment.

Here is a bellhousing alignment analogy; you can mount the best scope on the best rifle, but you need to sight in the scope to hit the bullseye. Change out the scope to another gun and you need to sight in the scope again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dale and Phil, THANKS for the kind words.

On this ZZ502/502 I used a precision QuickTime bellhousing! The bellhousing was out .005" on my initial parallel check.

I added a .005" shim to the two upper bolts with no shims on the two bottom bolts. This shim placement allowed me to get the bellhousing within .0005" on the parallel.

The last step of the bellhousing parallel alignment procedure; what shims are needed at the two middle bolts? The condition that now exists at the two bellhousing middle bolts is called a "soft foot".

How to eliminated the "soft foot"; torque tighten the two top bolts and two bottom bolts; using a feeler guage, measure the gap at the middle bolts which was .002"; in my case I added another .001".

My shims used to do my parallel alignment; .005" shims on the two top bolts; .003" on the two middle bolts; and no shims on the two bottom bolts.

Always recheck the parallel alignment when adding or subtracting shims to verify your actions.
 

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