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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
finally after 18 years, I've gotten to a point where I can get the body off the frame. I have a 1970 2 door, hardtop, chevelle that started out as a plain jane 307 PG. I have two questions for you that have done this before.
1. Can you confirm for me that on my model there are only 8 bolted positions with two unbolted cushions on each side? Basically, 4 bolts on each side?

2. On the farthest forward mount, the one you can actually put a wrench on, is the nut supposed to be free or should it have been tacked to the frame?

I am jumping for joy after reading all the horror stories that guys had about spinning cage nuts. Mine came off with no problems at all! Now wish me luck lifting the body off. Thanks alot for all your advice and help through this project.
Dave
 

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1. Let's start with the first bolt position. The nut is not welded on.

2. According to the Factory Assy. Manual, coupes have five (5) bushings per side. Four of the five have mounting bolts, only one is a cushion without the bolt.

Those having bolts:
1. Beneath the cowl - that's the one with the loose nut.
2. In front of the rear wheel kick-up.
3. Behind the rear wheel kick-up.
4. At the very end of the frame.

The cushion without the bolt is located between #1 and #3 above.

So yes, there are only four (4) bolts per side but only one (1) unbolted cushion per side - not two. (Wagons and pickups have a second unbolted cushion per side at the rear wheel kick-up and convertibles have an extra unbolted cushion per side under the cowl inboard of the #1 cushion. Contrary to what catalogs and bushing replacement kits say, big block cars do not have the extra cowl bushing like convertibles do.)

Congrats on not spinning any cage nuts. You've got it made! You might want to put some anti-seize compound on those bolts before you put them back in.

Be safe. Do one side at a time and be sure to stick a block of wood between the body and the frame just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am actually swapping out to a different frame. Straightened, sanded painted, and square. I am using new mount hardware as some of the bolts were pretty badly rusted. Thanks for the anti-seize tip. Is it easier to jack the body up from the bottom or lift it with a cherry picker?
 

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David -

There's been a number of threads posted in the past asking the same question and whole bunch of replies with a variety of approaches to pulling/installing a body. It will probably come down to your resources and where your comfort level lies.

Also, you've probably seen the thread posted in the Restoration Corner section by Shane918 (72Chevelle BODY REMOVAL) asking the same question.
Between your and his posts, you should get some good suggestions from guys who have done it.
 

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Dave,
on my '70 SS, as I was removing the pans and installing the new ones, I am replacing the bushings to put everything where it was intended to be. I also put the non-bolted bushings behind the rear seat on the cross brace. These 2 are seldom metioned anywhere but after talking about these with some knowlegable people I ws told that this was a good idea. The car did not have them installed from the factory.
Roland in NY
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What does the additional bushing per side do for you? Does it add more rigidity or more for vibration control?
 
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