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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about this for few years.
Fiberglass bolt on hood.
I know you have to change hinges but who makes a good one.
Also didn't think about there being a different latch for 68-69.
It will cost about $1100. Where would that money be better spent?
Any help will be great.
Rick
 

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Thinking about this for few years.
Fiberglass bolt on hood.
I know you have to change hinges but who makes a good one.
Also didn't think about there being a different latch for 68-69.
It will cost about $1100. Where would that money be better spent?
Any help will be great.
Rick

Rick , you don’t need hinges just lighter springs, also my factory latch bolted right on mine. I paid less than half that cost for mine …..I had to make a road trip but that way I knew it wouldn’t get damaged in shipping, mine is a glasstec it’s a nice hood

Brian
 

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IMO most fiberglass parts fit like $hit. If you have to pay a body man to straighten it out and paint it you may as well double that price
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Brian, glad to see you survived the winter.
Sure hope we didn't miss Dales viewing. :D
3 hood bolt paterns for 68-69. I have to call to get bolt spacing. The 68 which is which most are made for use a 2" shorter hinge. Don't know about spacing.
Rick
 

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I have a glass cowl hood for needed clearance. Lots of tweaking to make it look pretty good. It was great deal as my buddy was selling it and was painted almost a great match with my current paint so couldn't pass it up. Next time I would go with a steel 2" cowl.
 

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What hood do you have now? Personally I prefer the 69 SS hood over a cowl hood. Now if it was a 70 cowl induction hood that might be a different story.
 

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i have a L88 style fibre glass hood that bolts to the 68 hinges;
has some light weight springs that hold the hood open;
having a prop rod sucks with a race style hood;
but the front is held down with hood pins, as the intercooler occupies the space that the latch assy was :(
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Stock flat hood raised about 1" in the back for clearance. The SS hoods look good but still don't have the clearance needed. I have about 1" from air cleaner to hood now and want to add a carb spacer.
Another reason is reducing front weight. With a fiberglass hood and other changes last year I will take about 120# off the front.
Rick
 

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Has anyone ever cut out the Cowl Induction parts of a 70-72 CI hood and grafted them onto a 69 (or even a 68) hood? It would seem to me that a Correctly done FUNCTIONING 69-68 CI hood would be the ultimate. And if the aftermarket vendors made them, I would expect them to be a hot item. It seems like someone such as Goodmark could make a nice one.
 

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I bought a 4” cowl bolt on Harwood for my 69. Fit is decent, manufacturer leaves some scratches and access fiberglass resin but imo minimum work is needed. It uses 68 hinges, I modified my old 69 hinges to make it work. I used the recommended 210 springs. OEM latch fits with minor slotting. Have used Glastek before and their stuff is also nice. If you need bolt spacing measurements let me know. Also have it shipped to the closest distribution facility near you. First one that I got, I inspected there and was broken on the nose. Easy to send back since you haven’t signed for anything yet.
 

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1969 Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe Malibu SS 396 clone
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Has anyone ever cut out the Cowl Induction parts of a 70-72 CI hood and grafted them onto a 69 (or even a 68) hood? It would seem to me that a Correctly done FUNCTIONING 69-68 CI hood would be the ultimate. And if the aftermarket vendors made them, I would expect them to be a hot item. It seems like someone such as Goodmark could make a nice one.
:cool: The first thing I want to point out is that the '69 CI hood is a fully functional Cowl Induction Hood (provided you have a '70's CI Air Cleaner Assembly under it up). The '70's flapper door is pretty much nothing more than "eye candy."

I bought a (very) used GM '70 CI hood in the hopes of using the '70's pieces on my '69 CI hood. When I compared it to the aftermarket '69 CI hood with the idea that eye candy is cool. I found that the "spear" down the center of the '69 CI hood is a problem as it interferes with where the flapper door opening goes (perhaps a minor issue if you're a really decent bodyman doing your own work). On the other hand, the underside of the two hoods in the area where the flapper door mounts is a bigger problem. None of the structural sheetmetal lines up, resulting in many hours of bodywork to fab the supports, etc.

Obviously, I agree with your assessment, such a hood would be way cool. (y)
 

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I had considered getting a Goodmark steel cowl induction hood, in hindsight, I didn't do it when I painted the car and regretted it later on. The 2" added clearance would have simplified things considerably under the hood as far as intake options and air filter.
After I bought the 70 Malibu conv, it took a while for me to make the decision, but finally I was convinced that a CI hood was the way to go, even if the 70 was not an SS. The CI hood changed the whole personality of the car.
This was the car before the CI hood.
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And today.
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MW69, I would be interested in any specs to make my 69 hinges and hood latch work with a harwood bolt on.
Summit said they freight ship to my door for $160. Inspect on delivery and keep or send back.
Rick
Hinge bolt spacing, centerline is 12 3/4”. From rear of 69 hinge to centerline of first bolt is 2 3/4-2 7/8”. The rear hinge bolt starts right in the “offset” of the hinge. Offset adapter made to spread clamping force in rear. The latch just needs the hole opened up, and a larger hole made in the fiberglass frame for the top nose of the hook to fit in. If you need anymore photos or measurements just ask, can provide anything that might help you.
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