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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to you all for all the advice, I now have the rear seat back done ?
Except I for got the buttons $#%&@$^$#@[email protected]^%&
Now I am thinking I couldnt have measured where they go without the cover on the frame anyway.
I am also thinking if I go all the way through the cover, batting, and foam the buttons will look more pleated. (I may be wrong about this?)
Anyway I did a search on the subject and didnt find a really good answer, I found one measurement of 9 3/4" from top and another of 17" from bottom?
I didnt see any side placement and the top to bottom measurements sound iffy?
I know the PUI buttons are suposed to be larger than OE, but they may look better than no buttons.
Could someone with a 69 that has original seat covers please measure where the buttons go?
I need an "X-Y" measurement please or good refrence points to go from.
Thanks T.C.
 

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I could measure mine on the back seat for ya.
Let me know if you need it done?
Here is a picture of my back seat.
CLICKY!!

Also what color is your seats? Looks like parchment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply 1badss396:
Yes if you would measure the rear and front seat button positon I would appreciate it.
Yes it is parchment, I also need that paint code and paint brand from you .
Looks like a good match, how does it look up againsg the PUI material?
T.C.
 

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Its a perfect match with the PUI thats what I had it matched to you will have to go to my other thread and get the phone number to Bens Paint supply, they will sell and ship the ppg vinal paint too you. They will not give out the code even after I had them match it for me , lol

Back Seat: Looking at the back of the seat the button goes in the middle seam, look at my picture on my site for that. I think called pleat! Count the bead then the pleats.
Measurement from the top edge of the seat. this is were the top of the seat makes the 90 degree turn going to the back of the seat.
I have a measurement of 9 1/2 inches to the center of the button.
Rember look at the photos only on my back seat on my site the photos on my bucket seats is wrong and have been corrected but I dont have my bucket seats here I had to put them in another house I have for storage. Iam running out of room here in mt house for all the Schit I have aquired in the past few weeks, and my garage is a total disaster right now. Are you going to Daytona Ros show this month? I live 5 mins away from the place.

http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/41a2071fz232740d9/4762/__sr_/f768.jpg?phQnrbDBmOzImBYT

TC said:
Thanks for the reply 1badss396:
Yes if you would measure the rear and front seat button positon I would appreciate it.
Yes it is parchment, I also need that paint code and paint brand from you .
Looks like a good match, how does it look up againsg the PUI material?
T.C.
 

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TC said:
Now I am thinking I couldnt have measured where they go without the cover on the frame anyway.
I have always taken the covers off and measured the location on the loose cover. This is probably how they were placed at the factory, as the buttons don't go through the batting on original seats. The final location will depend on how the cover is stretched and hog ringed, but I can't see any other way they could have done it.

TC said:
Anyway I did a search on the subject and didnt find a really good answer, I found one measurement of 9 3/4" from top and another of 17" from bottom?
I didnt see any side placement and the top to bottom measurements sound iffy?
Kinda difficult to get a precise measurement, but using a tape measure wrapped around the top of the seat, I got 10 1/4" from the back edge of the seat (or where the back of the seat meets the package tray) to the center of the button. It's roughly 19" from the bottom of the seat back. My seats are original -69.
 

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I had the originan measurement from my old seats and mine were different than yours mine were 9 1/2 inches so I would bet that they were guessing it at the factory within 1.5 inches give or take?? Like you said iffy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again for the replys
You may be correct about the placement, but I would think if ya did this all day long, you would make up or be given a guage so they were all the same ?
I have worked in factorys and workers that do the same thing over and over day after day usually get to a point where they could give a flip and quallity goes out the door.
Olle, your probably rite on how they were applied, but "I aint taken this thing back off" Unless I put it through all the layers and it looks like crudd.
Olle what ribb/line are they at on yours?
Thanks again T.C.
 

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TC said:
You may be correct about the placement, but I would think if ya did this all day long, you would make up or be given a guage so they were all the same ?
I'm just guessing here, but I'm sure they used some kind of gauge or template, and I would think that the easiest way to do it at the factory would be to use a piece of string or a stick of the correct length as a gauge. If you lay it on the loose cover and on the seam where it's supposed to go, the buttons should go on in the exact same location every time. But my experience from different manufacturing environments tells me that it ain't necessarily so :)

Here's a picture that shows where the buttons are located on my back seat. As you can see, they're not seated any deeper than the pleats. On the other hand, the pleats on repro covers are not as pronounced as on original covers, so it might look better to do what you are talking about and use the batting for some added depth. It doesn't hurt to try, you can always remove and redo the buttons if you don't like the appearance.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the picture Olle.
1badss396 I called Karen and talked about the paint, kinda pricy @50.00 qt. but if it looks as yo'all say I guess it would be worth it.
Im gonna have to figure another way to get it shipped though , she said it would be 25.00 for shipping, cause it was hazzardous material?
Im only two hours away, it's not like its going by air?
No I probaby wont make it to the Turkey run this year?
If I was to go it would be to look at cars only not parts, to crazy around those parts, getting to crowed for me anyway, cant even turn around without bumping into someone.
It's like a shark feeding frenzie, people going nuts trying to beat the other guy to that best deal.
T.C.
 

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If you want send me the money and I will ship it to ya.
I will send it the regular way tell them its a part not paint.. screw the hazzardous crap, hehe
I do it all the time.
If you want drop me a email and give me your phone #
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey thanks for the offer, I may take ya up on that.
You didnt by any chance keep the can that paint came in did ya?
Sometimes the paint mixer will put the paint mix formula under the paper lable on a sticker attached to the can.
It's not a code, it's how they got the color, with the percentage of each pigment.
T.C.
 

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I have the can at home Iam sure their is no writing on it. It was the first one he made and he never wrote the formula down:clonk:Then I posted here on TC and all kinds of people wanted to buy it. So I had to take another peice of parchmeny material to him to remake the formula so he could writh the formula down and put it in his file. I do know it took him like 5-6 days to make the formula to an exact match.

http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/41a2071fz232740d9/9a7e/__sr_/c7e3.jpg?phwyNcDBj5hfChKv
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes I did use that fender, If I remember I cut the metal out and welded a new piece in.
I used a magnet to hold it in place, if you look at "body work #2" you can see the fender just before high build primer.
There is also another picture of the other fender showing the use of a magnet to hold metal in place for tacking w/welder.
I just put a couple of spot welds to hold the part inplace, then work my wat around it using a hammer to keep it level with the surrounding metal.
Hope this helps?
T.C.
 
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