[68chevmn]

I'm just finishing restoring the frame on a 1968 Chevelle. During the restoration, I put on a set of reproduction front disc brakes on the frame. My question is:

The car was a "basket case" when I purchased is a year ago and the frame was missing all of the brake line/hardware. I planned on replacing all of the brake lines anyway; but, what is the best way to run the new brake lines? In the front disc brake kit I bought, it came with a proportioning valve that mounts underneath of the master cylinder.

The car was originally a non-power drum brake car and I have no idea if it had a distribution block that was originally mounted on the frame. When I buy a full brake line kit, do I need a new distribution block that mounts on the frame so all of the rear and front brake lines have a place to meet before the lines go up to the proportioning valve on the master cylinder, or do the front brake lines go from the flexible caliper brake lines all the way up to the new proportioning valve?

I'm not too concerned about originality, but I also don't want a bunch of splices or couplers holding the brake lines together if I need to bypass a distribution block.


Dan

 

[Texas69]

I believe the lines go from the new prop valve to the flexible hoses. I just converted my 69 over to disk brakes, sounds similar to yours. I was planning to make my own lines to fit the new prop valve, but instead decided to order new lines. Right Stuff Detailing sold me a kit for 120 bucks delivered that included the hard lines from the master cylinder to the new propvalve (directly below the master cylinder), both front lines, and the line that goes to the rear end. It also had all of the clips to hold the lines on the frame rail.

 

[red68chevL]

You need a distribution block that mounts down on the inside of the drivers side frame rail. Look at the thread below, post 5. I posted pics of my 68 disc conversion. The second pic shows the distribution block, its the gold block down on the frame. The pics also show routing of the lines.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94360

 

[jonathanch]

The proportioning should have 3 outlet ports. The larger one on the rear goes to the rear brakes. The two small ones on the front of the valve each go to one of the front flex lines. Doesn't make any difference which goes where. If you get a kit it is easy to tell because they are pre bent to fit (well almost).

 

[68chevmn]

Thanks for the responses!!

I dug through the boxes of junk I got with the car and I did find a distribution block. What are the chances that the distribution block is still good?? It appears to be just a brass junction box with a pressure switch............or should I just plan on getting a new block and junk the old one?

Dan

 

[Texas69]

The factory correct spot is down on the frame rail. The kit I bought (which sounds about the same as yours) locates the prop valve under the master cylinder on a small bracket. If you use the prop valve that came with the kit, you will not use the block on the frame rail. It is your choice which one you use.

 

[red68chevL]

Michael, I hadn't thought about it being a kit, it maybe different. The pics are of a 68-69 style proportional valve, which is seperate from the distribution block. So I guess it would be a "it depends" answer.

 

[midshark]

Dan, I had the same situation as you with my '68. Formerly a non-power drum car. Mine was also a basket case. I went to front '69-up front discs. Non -power master is what I wanted. I, too, found my old distribution block in a box, wire wheeled it using a brass brush, cleaned it really well with brake cleaner and mounted it on the frame. Works fine. The prop valve is the stock type '68 unit from Inline Tube (along with all the lines). Everything kind of falls together at that point.

 

[rkd]

I just installed a Ground Up front disc conversion kit on my 66, which had four wheel manual drums. I also bought a complete set of their repro brake lines to fit the disc/drum setup. Also got new flex hoses and rear wheel cylinders.

The kit included the prop valve and bracket, the master (I stayed manual) and all the clips, fittings and trinkets.

Everything fit and worked perfectly. I did have to cut and reflare the lines at the proportioning valve since I did not use a booster, but it was straightforward. I did not reuse the original dist block at the frame.

Highly recommend this route.

 

[68chevmn]

Thanks for all of the responses! I ended up buying a complete brake line kit that contained the front brake lines for a disc brake conversion set-up and this kit did not need a distribution block since the new master cylinder had the proportioning valve attached on a lower bracket.

Dan