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Discussion Starter #1
Next on my to do list is to check the radio on my 1967 ss396 to see why it is not working. There is a plug on the right rear of the radio, looking from the back, the wires are black,green,black,from left to right or right to left in this case too. The right wire has also been cut on the car. It has a standard am radio and at one time there was a rear speaker since the wires are in the trunk as well as a cutout. The car also has an aftermaket power antenna in the rt. rear quarter that looks like a good aftermarket from that time. In checking I noted it was not an option in 67 but it has a good wiring harness and the motor is braced to the rear wheel well frame and very solid. I did check the tech section and the radio appears proper for that time. I think the wiring diagram shows a yellow wire for power and there is one in the harness but it looks like it goes somewhere on top of the radio. Any help on checking it out to see if it even works would be appreciated.
 

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The yellow wire is 12 volts to the radio. It is a switched line that's hot in the ON position of the ignition switch. Not sure why it is on the top of the radio. Should plug in the rear. Since someone added a power antenna, maybe they tapped into the yellow wire. Green is speaker. Blacks are ground. Perhaps first see if the yellow line is hot as a first step.
 

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There should be a wire with a lamp socket that plugs into a hole on the top of the radio. The three wire plug on the back is for +12v, speaker (middle connector), and ground. If you look at the connector through the opening in the radio case you should be able to see the markings on the connector indicating which one goes where! Mike
 

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Thanks for the responses, I can not get to work on the car till the end of the week but will let you know what I find. The radio is in the car and I don't think I can get my big head up in there to see the markings on the back - just unplugged it when I last checked. The middle was definately green and there were 2 blacks on each side. Is the hot lead on the left end looking from the back of the car? Also this week the Tag section of the forum helped decode the Trim Tag and it was properly coded for a rear speaker as I saw and noted above.I checked in the assembly manual for any additional wiring and it did have a page on that option and showed a plug with a black, green, black with green tracer. I didn't really understand the drawing and thought the rear speaker would be wired through a fader switch. I will report back. Thanks.
PS - I should have looked earlier in the assembly manual since it showed me the problem with my brake light switch, it is missing the clip it pushes into - one less question for the forum.
 

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John! I will look at my radio when I get home later and post which pin goes to what!

Also, the rear speaker wiring does go through a fader mounted behind the tuning knob. It's acually part of the inner knob on the tuning side of the radio. It has three wires coming off the fader with a small terminal connector at the end. I have a fader on my car but I don't have the mating connector for the fader so I can't help you with that wiring. Mike

[This message has been edited by m22chevy (edited 02-12-2002).]
 

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:rolleyes
semi-conscience betweeen classes)



The back of the radio has a three terminal connector.
The following is described if the radio is still in the dash, and you are sitting in the driver's seat

The middle spade connector is the speaker (+) output.

The spade connector closest to the driver's side is +12 volts power. Not sure why you have black wire there, it's okay if that termainal has a wire that has +12 volts ONLY when the key is in the ACC (accessory position) and the ON position.

The spade connector closest to the passenger side is ground return (-)for the speaker.

The radio gets its electrical ground thru the actual case when it is bolted to the rear support brace.

The old Delco radios did NOT use a floating ground output. So you can actually connect your speaker (-) terminal to any good ground under the dash if you so desire.

The wire "leading to the top of the radio" is the switched hot lead for the dial lamp. The top of the radio has the bayonet lamp holder. This wire should be running from the top holder to the left front corner of the radio--thru the slit between the lid and the chassis case where it connects to the power switch. All pre-1970 model year radio's dials lite up everytime you turn the radio on.


If you are looking at the radio with it's rear facing you (the radio out of the car on a bench):

__ __ __
a b c


a=speaker ground
b=speaker (+)
c=12 volt power


Don't try to apply power if it looks like someone has jury rigged this radio (i.e. dial light wire spliced into the rear connector area, etc).

If the car was originally ordered with a speaker, yes, you rec'd a "slip-on-fader" control. This is a "knob" that is placed behind the manual tuning knob. This directed the power output of the radio to either the front, rear, or both speakers. You don't need this control however if you want a front and rear speaker. You do need it if you want a show car.

Post back if you need more info, I can supply more speaker info/troubleshooting later. Perhaps even post a more thorough diagram this week-end.

As always...Radio Tech

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thnaks again for the input Joe,Mike,John, and I will look at the wiring this weekend. I am sure now that the radio is not hot since the c lead that Joe mentioned is cut and I did check last weekend on the other two leads and they were not hot. I will try to figure out what was done by the previous owner and I do also understand now the assembly manual that showed the fader switch on the tuning knob. To clarify a previous post, this is an a.m. pushbutton, not manual tune a.m. radio. As a possible next step, what would be the way to remove the radio from the dash?
 

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John, I believe the easiest way to remove the radio without dropping the dash is to loosen and drop down the heat control assembly and also remove the dash brace bar the connects under the dash to the firewall. This should allow room to remove the radio bracket from the side of the radio. Then just pull the knobs, remove the retaining nuts and you should be able to drop the radio down and out from the dash. Good Luck! Mike
 
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