[vick427]

Purchased this a while ago and was wondering what it might bring in today's market?

Here are a few things that I do know and I am sure the list is longer related to items that I do not know .
Originally purchased at Sawicki a Chevy Dealer in Rochelle Illinois.
I am the 3rd owner of the car.
Believed original mileage shown on odometer from previous titles.
Original black bucket seat interior with original carpet still in car.
Blinker tach still in car but does not work
4-speed car
I do have the 4-speed console; just not in the car.
There was Sun tach attached to the column that was removed as it did not work.
Correct narrow 12 bolt rear stamped as Eaton posi with 3:31 from factory. Now has 1969 3:73 posi gears with old-school ladder bars and air shocks.
Original radio gone with cheap replacement.
Extra three gauge set installed at some point under dash just ahead of shifter.
Was painted black with lots of runs and sags sometime in the early 80s as it should be marina blue. Doors close excellent with no sag. Front clip looks to be original replacement GM early in its life.
Floors and trunk pan are in very good shape.
Engine is 4-bolt main from 1970 with CE stamp with oval port heads. I am guessing a replacement at some point massaged by the speed shop (Speed shop sticker in both vent windows of which I believe did some work on the car at some point).
It also has headers with short mufflers bolted to them and that is it.
Cragars are old school non-unilug and cleaned up well.

I replaced the points, changed oil in engine (Brad Penn) and rear end and also purchased a new carb. Siphoned out all gas and pumped new gas through lines before reconnecting to new carb. Turned it over by hand several times then started car, set the dwell, and set the timing. Car starts and runs like a scalded cat and will squeal the big meats at nearly any point.

Thinking of restoring during retirement but wanted to understand approximate value.
Let me know what other questions you may have to better estimate value.

As a side note, I was only allowed to upload 10 pics but I do have many more.

Thanks,

Vic

 

[Rodney]

This is the condition that many of us would love to find. But they are few and far between. I would value it in the low to mid 20’s as it sits assuming there is no serious rust.

 

[AK71SS]

Low to mid $30K's. That's the market today.

 

[vick427]

The car has no serious rust anywhere that I could find. The underside of the doors, the trunk and under the carpet look very very good.

Your input is greatly appreciated as it gives me something to consider before restoration vs the cost of restoring and the potential value afterwards.

It was very hard for me to understand approximate value by looking on-line. The prices seemed to be all over the place and I was a bit hesitant to have strangers come look at the car in person for fear of parts disappearing at some point later on.

Thanks again!

Vic

 

[Flipper]

Agree with AK, low-mid 30's. Love the '66's and '67's. Great find.

 

[Leadhead]

I love the old school look of that car. Badass... I would say mid to high 30's.

 

[AK71SS]

The car has no serious rust anywhere that I could find. The underside of the doors, the trunk and under the carpet look very very good.

Your input is greatly appreciated as it gives me something to consider before restoration vs the cost of restoring and the potential value afterwards.

It was very hard for me to understand approximate value by looking on-line. The prices seemed to be all over the place and I was a bit hesitant to have strangers come look at the car in person for fear of parts disappearing at some point later on.

Thanks again!

Vic

Not sure of your intent; daily driver, trailer queen, etc. but suggest finding a licensed appraiser and have the car appraised if not for insurance purposes. Cost of a full frame-off restoration going through everything interior and exterior can easily cost $30K - $60K depending how far you want to take the restoration and how much of the work you can do yourself. Quite often, in the end you'll have more invested in the car than it can be appraised at or even sold for.

From the condition description you provided, there's a really good possibility the only thing needed to have a really nice driver and enjoy participating in car shows would be refreshing the drive train, refreshing the engine compartment and repaint exterior back to the much loved Marina blue since that is what it was born with. All this can be done in phases and some patience.

Enjoy and drive it often for many wish to have what you have.

 

[jjr158]

Purchased this a while ago and was wondering what it might bring in today's market?

Here are a few things that I do know and I am sure the list is longer related to items that I do not know .
Originally purchased at Sawicki a Chevy Dealer in Rochelle Illinois.
I am the 3rd owner of the car.
Believed original mileage shown on odometer from previous titles.
Original black bucket seat interior with original carpet still in car.
Blinker tach still in car but does not work
4-speed car
I do have the 4-speed console; just not in the car.
There was Sun tach attached to the column that was removed as it did not work.
Correct narrow 12 bolt rear stamped as Eaton posi with 3:31 from factory. Now has 1969 3:73 posi gears with old-school ladder bars and air shocks.
Original radio gone with cheap replacement.
Extra three gauge set installed at some point under dash just ahead of shifter.
Was painted black with lots of runs and sags sometime in the early 80s as it should be marina blue. Doors close excellent with no sag. Front clip looks to be original replacement GM early in its life.
Floors and trunk pan are in very good shape.
Engine is 4-bolt main from 1970 with CE stamp with oval port heads. I am guessing a replacement at some point massaged by the speed shop (Speed shop sticker in both vent windows of which I believe did some work on the car at some point).
It also has headers with short mufflers bolted to them and that is it.
Cragars are old school non-unilug and cleaned up well.

I replaced the points, changed oil in engine (Brad Penn) and rear end and also purchased a new carb. Siphoned out all gas and pumped new gas through lines before reconnecting to new carb. Turned it over by hand several times then started car, set the dwell, and set the timing. Car starts and runs like a scalded cat and will squeal the big meats at nearly any point.

Thinking of restoring during retirement but wanted to understand approximate value.
Let me know what other questions you may have to better estimate value.

As a side note, I was only allowed to upload 10 pics but I do have many more.

Thanks,

Vic

Best way to get the best market value is to go to the Hagerty web site and use the evaluation tool. You have to be honest with the cars condition to get the approximate value. Hagerty uses recent auctions and classic car site sales to determine the values.

 

[billdini]

Great car, love the stance too. I think you should be more concerned about how much to restore it and how much it will bring finished. I would certainly not sell it as it sits today because the sharks will be all over it and one or more may convince you to sell it at their low price. I am will to bet cleaned up it would pull 35k or more on ebay but finished over 55k. If you keep it I would highly recommend using Redline Gauges out of Ca. They did my 68 roller tach and even converted to digital so it is very accurate and it looks stock.

 

[Chevelle SS 396/375]

My '67 Chevelle SS 396 was a Kansas City car also......they are somewhat rare these days and I'm sure you can guess why!

I'd say that one has very good bones as long as the underneath is solid. I'd definitely repaint it the original Marina Blue if it were me. It's a June build (06A) like mine was (6-9-67). Come to think of it, I wonder if it was originally an L78 car like mine. Regardless, they were likely very close on the assembly line! What's the VIN? Mine was 138177K200753.

I was looking at a '67 several months ago in NC. It was Maroon but needed alot of work. The dash was toast & the interior was in dire need of help plus seats! I was interested due to the paint code it had (was originally E-E like my old car). The guy offered it to me for something like $22k, and that's likely about what he sold it for. From what I see with yours, it's nicer generally, although the NC Chevelle was completely original (sheet metal, etc.) as I recall (Atlanta build). So, maybe $25k is about right for yours, possible a bit more. You could sink $30k to $40k into a restoration without even trying!

Good luck with things,

John

 

[cheveslakr]

I agree with the estimates given so far. Looks like it's got original door panels and seat upholstery which to me, is far more attractive than a typical restored car. IMO, it's a perfect slate for a diy body prep and get a pro to spray it back to oem colors. Spruce it up in the engine bay to your tastes, rebuild any suspension needing attention and upgrade the front brakes to the single piston discs up front.
I've got 2 a-bodies that are raked with the ass up and the front a tad higher than oem. Max out the caster and they ride just fine. Consider the jeep steering box upgrade. All this could be done for less than $10k and you'd have yourself a very respectable muscle car.

 

[Alwhite00]

My '67 Chevelle SS 396 was a Kansas City car also......they are somewhat rare these days and I'm sure you can guess why!


John

What's the story on the Kansas cars?

 

[vick427]

Thanks to everyone who responded.

As always, I learned a few things with this post. The Hagerty online tool for valuation was new to me and I am eager to try it out at some point. The other item was approximate cost to restore with lows and highs. This was something that crossed my mind but I did not know where to begin estimations.

My intent is to freshen up the drive train and suspension with new gaskets and bushings. Then its onto a new exhaust with repaint to original color in the not so distant future. From there it will be enjoyed and driven periodically.

Thanks again!

Vic

 

[Jim Mac]

why not just give it a wash and wax and just keep it as is and just replace whatever is needed to be safe? The way it sits is just a really nice old school chevelle hot rod, you blow it apart and restore it, sorry to say it just becomes another restored chevelle Ina sea of restored chevelles.
The amount of money involved to do a really nice restoration probably won't break even when it comes time to sell it, not to mention year or two it's going to be sitting all taken apart. if there's any local car shows, drive it down and park it next to a few restored cars, I bet you get more people loving your car as is. jim

 

[vick427]

Hi Jim,

My mind always dreams about what could be but what you describe is more than likely what will take place over the next several years.

Thanks,

Vic

 

[boyd66k20]

I like it as is. Old school look. I'd just keep the mechanicals up to snuff. Like said , once it's restored it just becomes another restored car. Too many like that and not enough that have the look yours does. Your choice.

 

[Chevelle SS 396/375]

What's the story on the Kansas cars?

Well, because of rust! Midwest cars were in the heart of the rust belt so making it through 50+ years is an accomplishment! Also, I believe the KC Plant built more Chevelle than any other. Personally, I prefer KC cars due to the accurate trim tags - more info than other plants.

 

[Ponyyboyy]

This sure is a nice looking car from the pictures. Nice stance. I would estimate it to be around the 25 - 30 mark depending on things that is hard to tell from pictures.
Cleaned up and running well would increase the price but it does appear it needs some things to be road worthy but this is where a lot of people like to buy. Heck I would be interested in the car if you were looking to sell it.
Cleaned up and painted you are probably looking at the 45k and up range.

I feel like solid Chevelle's in this year range fall in a few price ranges
Solid cars that are going to need some work or missing parts seem to be around 15- 20k.
20-25k will get you a running drive train with a mostly complete car. You can get a pretty decent ride if you don't mind column shift and bench seats with a small block engine.
25k should get you a car that runs pretty good that can be taken out on weekends and allow you tinker with it while driving and enjoying it. Options will play a role in value. ( engine/Transmission etc. )
30 -35k I feel like I should have a car that I can pretty much go to a car show and not feel out of place. It may not be an award winner but it is a nice car.
40k plus varies a lot on options and quality and such. This is where values can jump by thousands possibly.

This can all be outdated in a month and is all just my opinion lol.

-Ponyy

 

[Alwhite00]

Well, because of rust! Midwest cars were in the heart of the rust belt so making it through 50+ years is an accomplishment! Also, I believe the KC Plant built more Chevelle than any other. Personally, I prefer KC cars due to the accurate trim tags - more info than other plants.

Just curious as I have a Kansas 67 also.

 

[Chevelle SS 396/375]

Just curious as I have a Kansas 67 also.

When was yours built? Mine was built June 9, 1967