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So this is on a internally regulated alternator it seems? As I have an external.
AH, sorry, I mis-read, my fault. Yes I bypassed the external regulator. I would try testing the regulator some more. I'll re-read more carefully and see what else I missed.
Also I "think" that if you unplug the regulator and ground the brown wire the dash lamp should light (with the key on). If not, check bulb and wiring and fuse, If it does, reconnect the regulator, and unplug the alternator and ground the blue, it also should light. If not, check regulator and wiring to alternator.
I'm sure someone else will correct me if I screwed it up.
Also, with everything intact and working right, if you only turn on the ignition to "Run" but not start the car, the lamp should come on since it is in the field circuit. It should come on in varying brightness if the alternator output noticeably under or over battery voltage.
 

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Can't help with the diagnostics here much ( I just chased down similar issue and found my bulkhead connectors needed cleaning), yet wanted to add that the 67 indeed has a fusible link and it is in the line from + bat to terminal near headlamps. The one you called " cobbled". I had to "cobble" a new fusible link into mine. A Ford part to boot, which the old car hasn't rejected yet. :) One of the spare parts I carry on road trips.

While I havent replaced the oem wiring yet, but cleaned every connection, the cost of doing so is cheap. Not like the $450 for the glow plug harnesses in our biodiesel Mercedes.
 

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You don't need an ammeter to know if the alt is charging. A fully charged bat is about 12.6v @ room temp. You are measuring 12.2-3v, which could be just poor meter accuracy....or low bat voltage.

Either way, with the bat THIS low, with the engine running you should be getting at least 13v or more at the alt main terminal.
A blown idiot lamp could cause the no charge problem. The idiot lamp is part of the alt feedback charging cct. Some car companies connect a resistor in parallel with the lamp so that the system still charges in the event of a blown lamp. I am not sure what your car has, but if the lamp does not illuminate with the ign sw 'on', you should check it.

The original problem of reversing the leads probably blew the diode in the alt, but nothing else.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The one wire alternators will work with only one wire connected but they work best with three wires as shown in your first schematic. With three wires you can use the #2 sensor wire to detect voltage where the charge wire connects to the positive junction and you can use the #1 wire for Generator light functionality.

In order to use an internally regulated alternator with the original wiring you will want to use the following diagram.

I am not sure if I had a slip up in another post, but I don't have a internally regulated alternator. I am running an externally regulated alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Can't help with the diagnostics here much ( I just chased down similar issue and found my bulkhead connectors needed cleaning), yet wanted to add that the 67 indeed has a fusible link and it is in the line from + bat to terminal near headlamps. The one you called " cobbled". I had to "cobble" a new fusible link into mine. A Ford part to boot, which the old car hasn't rejected yet. :) One of the spare parts I carry on road trips.

While I havent replaced the oem wiring yet, but cleaned every connection, the cost of doing so is cheap. Not like the $450 for the glow plug harnesses in our biodiesel Mercedes.
^ I did replace that link. It was brittle as could be. Sadly did not resolve the issue, but it won't be causing me one in the future. I will need to look at the bulkhead connectors, but I am thinking my issues are with the charging system itself (reasoning below)

You don't need an ammeter to know if the alt is charging. A fully charged bat is about 12.6v @ room temp. You are measuring 12.2-3v, which could be just poor meter accuracy....or low bat voltage.

Either way, with the bat THIS low, with the engine running you should be getting at least 13v or more at the alt main terminal.
A blown idiot lamp could cause the no charge problem. The idiot lamp is part of the alt feedback charging cct. Some car companies connect a resistor in parallel with the lamp so that the system still charges in the event of a blown lamp. I am not sure what your car has, but if the lamp does not illuminate with the ign sw 'on', you should check it.

The original problem of reversing the leads probably blew the diode in the alt, but nothing else.


^Readings from -post and + post are the same as -post and Alt charge. maxed out at a whopping 12.38 tonight. I need to see that 13v reading at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I read the below on another forum

"From the above (KOEO = key on engine off and KOER = key on engine running).
F or #1 terminal (field) - KOEO = #4 slight voltage, KOER = 9-12V typically
#2 terminal (sense) - KOEO = 0V, KOER = >3.2V
#3 terminal (Battery) - KOEO = 12V, KOER = 12V
#4 terminal (light) - KOEO = F slight voltage, KOER = 12V

By 12V above I mean battery voltage, which may be 12V when engine is off but could be up to 14.5V when engine is running.

Check the light: Ground the brown #4 terminal wire at the regulator. When grounded the light should come on. If you don't have a light then skip this test. Test this with the connector off the regulator.

Checking the alternator: Jumper the blue wire F terminal to the battery post on the back. This should make it easily crank out 16+ volts. Next, connect a troublelight between the battery post and the F terminal. The light should come on and you should measure > 3.2V at the other alternator terminal. If it passes these tests, then it's in the regulator or wiring.

Checking the wiring: At the regulator connector jumper the brown light wire (#4) to the F terminal (#1) and you should be able to measure >3.2 volts on the other alternator terminal or terminal #2 of the regulator connector. If these tests pass, it is in your regulator.

When doing these tests, make sure you turn off or pull the fuses for any added electronics that you can. The alternator test can produce enough voltage to damage stuff.

Peter"


F or #1 terminal (field) - KOEO = #4 slight voltage, KOER = 9-12V typically I had 0v and 11.44v respectively
#2 terminal (sense) - KOEO = 0V, KOER = >3.2V I had .05v and 6v respectively
#3 terminal (Battery) - KOEO = 12V, KOER = 12V I had 12.33 and 11.93 respectively
#4 terminal (light) - KOEO = F slight voltage, KOER = 12V I had 0v and 11.44 respectively

Are the first and last tests not the same? I was confused by that.

I jumpered F and 3 for a full field test. Nada. same voltage 12.3ish jumpered or not on battery.
when i disconnected the F from the regulator with car running saw a blue spark, when i disconnected jumper cable with car running saw blue spark as well.


GEN LIGHT IS OPERATIONAL.

Give me everything you got!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Forgot to add my battery readings...


9/6 @ 8:35PM--12.22V
9/7 @ 6:03AM--12.19V
9/7 @ 6:40PM--12.10V
9/7 @ 8:25PM--12.14V after starting car for test and idling for less than <10 minutes total
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well she is running and charging properly!

I had both alternators tested and wouldn't ya know, they both tested good. With that knowledge went back cut off the alternator power and sense wires, put threw out the connector and put new insulated spades on. Once I had this done and threw the alternator in I got my 13v reading, and at 1500 RPM was getting 14+.

If I had to guess, the voltage regulator took a **** and my connections were barely making so once I started messing with the original spades they took a ****.

Thanks for all the help, I know a hell of alot more than I did.
 

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So the only real issue was the spade connections and charge wire at the alternator?
 
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