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I assume this is your car? To me this car is missing the "Wow" factor that I'd expect from a $60k '66. Don't get me wrong, it's very nice, but judging by the pic of the floor pans & all the bugs in the radiator, it looks like it has been driven a bit more than 250 miles since the restoration. The paint under the hood has dulled out a bit either from age or miles & that dash pad is unacceptable. If I was viewing the car in person, I'd point those things out & adjust my offer accordingly.
 

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it's painted wrong under the grille,it's missing the tach but the worst thing is the 1/4 super sport emblems are too far forward.but it does have the 66 mag wheel covers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yup, mine. All good valid points. Was curious about comments....appreciate the feedback. Might be worth me doing some work to address some of those issues first...would help to clean it inside too - which I did not get around to doing LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, someone pointed out the under grill paint error - something I did not know before. I never noticed the emblems...will have a look - odd would think the holes were pre-existing?
 

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It’s nice. Personally, I like to see a description of the car before the cars history. Does it have original sheet metal? How much has been replaced? Was the engine rebuilt, how many miles ago? I’d also post 24 pictures, not 12. It’s an expensive car and the economy isn’t the best, give potential buyers a reason to follow up.

Remove what’s shown in picture #10 from your ad. I assume that piece of paper came with the car when you bought it. It is no longer accurate, without context it comes across as intentionally misleading.

Steve R
 

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Yes, someone pointed out the under grill paint error - something I did not know before. I never noticed the emblems...will have a look - odd would think the holes were pre-existing?
Quarters have been replaced, most likely.
 

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Yes, someone pointed out the under grill paint error - something I did not know before. I never noticed the emblems...will have a look - odd would think the holes were pre-existing?
I take it that this is a one owner (you) number matching car. Many prefer the untouched car look. I prefer fully restored but again a documented number matching 66 convertible is worth some coin. I do not think this car is over priced at all.
 

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Previous posters make some valid points. The relocation of the rear emblems could be a pain. I’d resolve as many issues as possible and then have it detailed very well.
As far as asking price with some of the rediculous prices I’ve seen recently I don’t think it’s overpriced either considering all the issues get resolved.
 

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t...would help to clean it inside too - which I did not get around to doing LOL.
If you play the "restored" card, no junk in the trunk.
 

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as someone mentioned,more pics and closer,also the emblem is wrong on drivers side but without a pic of the pass side who knows, it could be correct if it just had say a drivers side 1/4 only replaced,then fixing the holes just got easier.and a good body man should be able to weld those holes shut and blend in paint to match,they could also paint under the grille then just put the tack in and detail it,tie up that orange wire in the trunk,and clean up the wiring by the master cyl and it will look wayy better.i see you changed the ebay ad.i remember you saying you had a 67 beaumont sd.would love to see pics of your beaumont
 

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That doesn't appear to be the correct VX radiator for a L-34 360HP car. Cap is usually offset towards drive side I believe...??
 

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Well now I know what my car could look like if it were all restored (minus the engine) but standard seat belts? In an SS? Even mine are upgraded with the rubber boot.
 

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there are also date stamps on the doors and trunk lid.if it has had 1/4's put on those date codes will be gone.jim i also kinda wondered on that date stamp.i would like the julian date off the back of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i will crawl under and see if I can get julian dates off back of the block. Where on the doors is the stamping?
 

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You won’t find the block date by crawling underneath. It’s on top.
 

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the trunk it should be pretty much dead center on the inside of the trunk lid.1/4 panel numbers will be below the front corners of the trunk lid just outside of the trunk seal.the doors you would need to remove the door panels which i wouldn't bother doing,but if you want to go that far the number is just under the stainless upper trim,mine the number is upside down.
 
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