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Discussion starter · #81 · (Edited)
I got the MaxJax installed last September after replacing the concrete under one of the posts because of cracks. Needed to wait a month for the concrete to cure. Tested it by lifting the EC body and got it's first practical use lifting the Corvair to remove the front subframe with suspension. Worked great.

I have plans to take the EC to a body shop
/ painter soon. I still need to strip the paint on the fenders, hood, doors and tailgate. I better get busy.

I had been storing the bucket seats in the back of the EC and needed to finish them. Seats are reupholstered, I just need to refinish the metal backs and skirts. They are being stored with the chassis now.
 

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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Seat photos.
 

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Discussion starter · #84 ·
Hi Tony, I have been watching your progress, too. Progress is great!

I need to thank Rambo, too. He supplied the padding and spring repair parts I used to redo my seats. Thanks!
 
Hi Tony, I have been watching your progress, too. Progress is great!

I need to thank Rambo, too. He supplied the padding and spring repair parts I used to redo my seats. Thanks!
Yeah,

I have all my seat materials from Rambo still in their boxes... I am guessing that will be my "winter" project...
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
I managed to get my tailgate and hood stripped and epoxy primed. Front fenders are next, and I know there is filler in the passenger side, and drilled holes to weld. I found more filler in the tailgate than I was expecting. Rust free, though.
 

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I managed to get my tailgate and hood stripped and epoxy primed. Front fenders are next, and I know there is filler in the passenger side, and drilled holes to weld. I found more filler in the tailgate than I was expecting. Rust free, though.
Good to see you are making progress Bruce. How do you plan to attack the holes? My SS was a vinyl top car and they filled the holes by brazing them I think. Looks like brass material from the inside. Are the holes present in the filler area from pulling out a dent? The 66 convert that I got that came from Tucson has a few holes drilled to pull out a dent and then filled with bondo like material. Looks kind of like worms crawling in the inside of the quarter just over the wheel well area.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
Hi Jim. My filler oozing through holes sounds like yours. My plan is to remove all of the filler and paint, then weld each hole with MIG welder using a copper plate to back each weld. I will use minimum heat, and wait for each one to cool before starting the next one.
 

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Discussion starter · #89 · (Edited)
I was removing the remaining hardware from my front fenders and realized I need to repair/replace a couple of nuts. I have a u-nut missing the nut. The replacements I found on-line are a different style than my originals. Is there a source for ones like my originals? Also, one of the front fender mounting tabs is missing the threaded insert. Can I buy replacement inserts anywhere? I guess I should check my 72 wagon to see if it has any of these style u-nuts. The 72 has the same u-nuts.
 

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Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
I found the threaded insert. I found them on eBay sold by a Mustang parts dealer.

Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Font
Gas Wood Auto part Metal Concrete

I stripped the area where the holes are and will weld them.
Water Wood Grey Flooring Tints and shades
 
The u nuts can be purchased from NAPA. I have some in several different sizes.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Hi Philip,
Thanks, I haven't been able to find them in the original style. Seems that they were redesigned. But the 72 wagon has some in the same style as the 66.

It has been a while since I posted here and I am relearning how to to post and edit the posts with photos.
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
I now have the EC on a rotisserie. I hope this changes my attitude about cleaning and painting the underside. I decided to do more of this myself after talking to a Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Wheel
painter. Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Car
 
I did the underside of my wagon on a 2 post lift before setting it on the new frame. A rotisserie would have been much easier.
 
I came across this post of yours a while back but never really took the time to read through it because it was quite lengthy, until this morning. I saw it again this morning and decided to read through it and check out your progress. I must say that it is coming along nicely and when you get her finished, she will be beautiful! Thanks for taking the time to share your build progress with us. I thought I would share a couple of photos of my friends 1966 EC with you since it is also a black. He has since removed the SS grille emblem and was able to locate an original el camino grille emblem to put back in it's place. Hopefully these photos will keep your drive alive to keep pressing forward and get it finished so you can proudly take it out and enjoy it. I now look forward to keeping up with your progress.

Steve
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Discussion starter · #96 ·
Hi Steve,
Thank you for the message. I appreciate it and I always like to see a black El Camino. I like the stance of this one. I have lowering springs on mine and 17 inch wheels. I hope mine has a stance similar to that one. Do you know the size of the rear wheels?
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
I made a decision to add factory gauges and acquired them a long time ago. This eliminated the clock in the cluster and my car didn't have console so I also bought a dashtop clock. I just got around to drilling the holes in the dash. This needs to be done while the windshield is out of the since it needs to be done from the topside. The dashpad has to be drilled too. Got it done per the illustration in the Assembly Instruction Manual.
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Discussion starter · #98 ·
Philip,
I was reviewing your painting sequence. Did your painter complete the topcoats and clear after you cleaned and painted the bottom side, and put the body back on the chassis for the last time? If so, were you able to mask and protect the completed chassis from overspray?
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
I am getting my 396 ready to fire up. Did the pre-oiling last week and verified oil pressure and finally got oil to the rockers. My tool to turn the oil pump was undersized. My distributor housing measured 1.250 diameter, but the tool was only 1.220 dia. The .030 difference was enough to allow leakage and drop oil pressure at the lifter galleys. So I was only getting a little oil at the left side and seeing none on the right side. Pressure was good at the the oil filter.
Tom Mobley stopped by with his tool that looked like mine but measured 1.240 dia. It worked like a charm. Problem solved. Tool Wood Drill Tap Plumbing
 
Discussion starter · #100 · (Edited)
I promised a photo of my intake manifold a while back. The design flows exhaust gases next to the base of the carburetor. The heat shield can burn through exposing the manifold and carburetor to direct exhaust damaging both carburetor and manifold. I needed to machine the mounting surface.
I also decided I didn't need the extra heat in Arizona so blocked the path by drilling and tapping the heat path on both sides. I am still using the factory metal shield. Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Grille Automotive tail & brake light
Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Rim
 
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