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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

New member here broadcasting from MA. Big classic GM/hotrod guy. New to 64 chevelles.. here's the deal.

We're looking to do a 64 chevelle Malibu big block/Muncie build.

Went and looked at one this morning. 1964 chevelle Malibu (non SS), sport coupe. Was Originally a white 327/PG car. Now is black with a Reid's 350hp 350/th350.

The came from the south the so the body and underneath are CLEAN rust wise. There's none, I went around the car with a magnet. No issues I could find.

When it was painted black it was a full color change (jambs and trunk etc). However it's a 30 year old lacquer job and is awful. Paint is pretty much cracked and checked throughout with some big thin spots showing through. tons of paint chips.

Red vinyl bench interior is really good. Odometer reads 72k and is probably original.

It's on real nice 14" ralleys with disc brake center caps and new staggered rubber. Factory open diff. 2.5 or 3" flowmaster dual exhaust with H pipe. Nice Chevy wood steering wheel.

Edit:: it has these chrome and vinyl trim pieces that run down the length on either side of the body.. did the nonSS cars come with body trim? Or is this just some awful stick-on junk?

It's a really solid and rust free car which in MA is a lot to ask for. Seller is a small time dealer and has it priced at $14,995.

What do you guys think? The end goal is to build a nice clean driver/sleeper. Not a flip.. just not sure how I feel about the price tag since the paint is so awful. The big deal is rust and it certainly doesn't have any.

I took a lot of pictures and videos that I will be uploading tonight and tomorrow.

Let me know some preliminary thoughts while I'm getting the pics and vids up.
------

Currently have a 64 impala sedan with a hot 350, R4 and 3.73 posi, 52k original on it.

Got the running 454 for free out of a buddy's fresh water cooled boat. Getting built of course. Same buddy has a Muncie swap from a 64 chevelle I can scoop up.

Thanks all,
Leo from MA
 

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Just a fair warning. Most of the what's it worth questions here gets opinions that is usually lower than real world prices. Most of us already own chevelles that was purchased years ago when they were cheaper. While we all want to say a good driver is only worth $10-12k sadly 99% of the owners selling a chevelle disagree and price them higher and usually gets more money.
If its something you want, its rust free and you have the cash, and mechanical skills, I would say buy it. Just remember when it comes time to sell. A 64 doesn't bring the money as a 66 or a 70. Then again alot of people invest alot of time and money chasing a little white ball around a big lawn and never get a penny of that money back. So I vote go for it. No sense wasting months or years trying to find just the right car when you can be driving this one saturday. Jim
 
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If the car is as rust free as you think then overpaying a bit for a keeper isn't a big deal. There is a much greater downside buying a less expensive car that has rust issues.

As always, have it checked out by a body shop before you spend the money.

Do you have any pictures?

Good luck with your decision.

Steve R
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi all

Thank you very much for the responses. I'm trying to upload pictures as we speak. Hopefully they come through.

I do a lot in the classic BMW ///M world/community so I'm very familiar with rear world prices vs seller's inflation.
























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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Please see attached videos as well.

We're the differentials on these front-chucks like on my 64 impala? This ones got the cover in the back.

https://vimeo.com/199313629


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Did you look at the 64 chevelle that was mentioned within the last two days in a WIW post. It was a car that looks to have been bought in Oklahoma then brought to Long Island to be flipped. It was on eBay and didn't sell with a BIN of $25,000. If it's available, and in your price range, it might be worth a look.

Steve R
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Steve

Was it the blue BBC/4spd car? I saw that on eBay when I was checking pricing a few days ago. Looked amazing. Shame it didn't sell.

Our end goal isn't resale value, we just like building project cars (my father and I).

Would have considered buying that blue car but part of the fun is building it yourself, though I know I could build that same car less than 25k.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Follow up question for anyone that knows: if I was to swap this car to exactly the correct 4 speed (from a donor 64 chevelle), would I need to add a shifter hump? Or is the tunnel big enough as it is


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Follow up question for anyone that knows: if I was to swap this car to exactly the correct 4 speed (from a donor 64 chevelle), would I need to add a shifter hump? Or is the tunnel big enough as it is
3 Things:
First off - That car is definitely worth the asking price in todays pricing. While 2 years ago, that would have brought about 10K (or less), the price has really jumped in the past year for these cars. Since it is at a dealer, I would guess you could get it for $14,500 or a little less...You will have a very hard time finding a complete, running rust free car for less...

Second - I have an original 64 SS with a 4 speed and there is a hump. I have a console, so the hump is different from the hump without a console. It is quite a bit smaller for the console to fit over it.

Believe it or not, the tunnel hole was cut out with a torch and is pretty rough. The hump is just welded over the top.

Third - I will be selling my original 1964 Muncie, which was rebuilt a short time before I bought the car. It has my cars vin stamped into it, meaning it was original to my car. I've put an Autogear M23 into my car now.

But....The 64 transmissions aren't really made to go behind a big block, especially one which has been modified. I have a 475HP small block and that is why I went to the M23.

grr

Build thread....
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/142-projects-builds/681226-64-chevelle-ss-body-shop-build.html

Pic of hump area after I ground all of the factory undercoating off. This is the original rust free floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
3 Things:

First off - That car is definitely worth the asking price in todays pricing. While 2 years ago, that would have brought about 10K (or less), the price has really jumped in the past year for these cars. Since it is at a dealer, I would guess you could get it for $14,500 or a little less...You will have a very hard time finding a complete, running rust free car for less...



Second - I have an original 64 SS with a 4 speed and there is a hump. I have a console, so the hump is different from the hump without a console. It is quite a bit smaller for the console to fit over it.



Believe it or not, the tunnel hole was cut out with a torch and is pretty rough. The hump is just welded over the top.



Third - I will be selling my original 1964 Muncie, which was rebuilt a short time before I bought the car. It has my cars vin stamped into it, meaning it was original to my car. I've put an Autogear M23 into my car now.



But....The 64 transmissions aren't really made to go behind a big block, especially one which has been modified. I have a 475HP small block and that is why I went to the M23.



grr



Build thread....

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/142-projects-builds/681226-64-chevelle-ss-body-shop-build.html



Pic of hump area after I ground all of the factory undercoating off. This is the original rust free floor.



Grr

Thank you for the info! If I can get the Muncie swap cheap enough I'd figure just throw it in there and put something better in down the road.

Regarding the hump, if I went with a 5 speed of sorts with the shifter that sits right on top, would a hump be needed?

Also what kind of carpet changes are required when adding the hump?

Thanks all
Leo


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In my little part of the world 15k would be a little on the high side. Although it looks like a pretty nice car, except for the paint of course. Having no rust has to add some value to it. To flip it, it's too much. If you like it might be just right. I'm sure he'd take a little less for it.

Just my opinion,
Richard
 

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Grr

Thank you for the info! If I can get the Muncie swap cheap enough I'd figure just throw it in there and put something better in down the road.

Regarding the hump, if I went with a 5 speed of sorts with the shifter that sits right on top, would a hump be needed?

Also what kind of carpet changes are required when adding the hump?

Thanks all
Leo
Leo,

I am not sure what changes are needed with a 5 speed, but quite a few people who are on the forum have done it, so I'll defer to one of those who have experience.

I actually have most everything for a swap, since I put a different bellhousing and a new clutch.

As far as the carpeting, I initially bought ACC Carpeting direct from them for a Chevelle with a 4 speed. It fit horribly with a lot of extra carpeting over the hump area. I called them and agreed to take t back and swap it out for the carpeting without a hump and that fit much better..That is how I figured out there were 2 different humps.

grr
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you very much all!! The info is seriously appreciated.

The thing for us to do now is see what we want to spend in the long run and prioritize engine, trans, paint and suspension overhaul. And of course.. price.

If I could just reiterate two more questions so as to have all the info when thinking about upgrades;

-the rear end in the car has the diff cover on the back. My 64 impala has the chuck that comes out the front.. did they make a change in the diff set up mid way through 1964? Or has this rear end been swapped out for a better unit?

-the side trim on the car is chrome with black vinyl in the middle.. was this a factory thing or after market crap? Should there be side trim on this car at all?

Thanks guys.

P.S. forgot to mention the car has front disc brakes.


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Looks pretty good, I like the colour combination and the bench seat. The side trim is copy or Malibu trim with something black put on top of it from the picture I belive someone tried to copy the oem moldings at some point. Malibu had moldings at that location. I like the pg column shift if you buy it and replaced the column let me know.

The 64's came with 10 bolts only 12 bolts came 65(first years for the 8.2" 10 bolt impala got 10 and 12 bolts 65)and had diff cover like you described. With a healthy BB and manuell transmission an upgrade might be good idea.
 

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Grr

Thank you for the info! If I can get the Muncie swap cheap enough I'd figure just throw it in there and put something better in down the road.

Regarding the hump, if I went with a 5 speed of sorts with the shifter that sits right on top, would a hump be needed?

Also what kind of carpet changes are required when adding the hump?

Thanks all
Leo


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Basically, you will not need any floor modifications to "fit" a Muncie 4-speed, just a hold for the shifter...

Here's the "hump" needed for a factory 4-speed... Its not really much of a hump, but just more of an access hole for the shifter.



Picture a bit misleading, as the hole is actually on the side a bit and not directly on the top.

1964-1967 Chevelle Shift Hump With 4 Speed
$45


While this hump fits the factory shifter, it will need to be clearanced slightly if you use a Hurst shifter. Uses the same carpet, generally, although I have heard some companies offer different carpet for 4-speed floors...


Some cars, such as GTOs and 442s used a factory installed Hurst shifter, and these models used a different hump (64-67).

Since the floor pans are the same as Chevelles, these will fit the Chevelle, but may not clear a factory 64/65 console (if you went that route)... I am guessing that "4-speed" specific carpets were actually made for these humps, but suppliers rarely clarify "GTO" versus "Chevelle" regarding carpets...


For '67 Chevelles with bench seats, the four speeds used this chrome "Hump" (but still used the oval one shown above too). It would fit a Hurst shifter, and look pretty "factory"... The lower hole would need the boot to seal of the elements, but could be anything (generic/Hurst boot, etc).



Assuming it has a TH350 automatic, any 63-70 Muncie will swap right it (except the rare Pontiac full-size or 70 M22). 71 and later are slightly longer, and while they still bolt right in, they may need a shortened driveshaft and a different slip yoke. If you currently have a Powerglide or TH350, then you can use the same driveshaft, yoke and crossmember on the Muncies, as noted above). Need a bracket welded to the frame for the clutch linkage, but everything is available reproduction...

And FYI, yes, ALL Chevelles (even 64) have the rear cover on the differential. No front drop-out carriers on the Chevelles.



As for a 5-speed, most are going to require floor modifications, not only for shifter locations, but also some won't fit the tunnel without mods...

The Richmond (and old Doug Nash) 5-speeds should fit with minimal modifications, and McCleod offers a new 5-speed that is supposed to fit as well (these both generally include the driveshafts)... There may be others, but strength and or fit may be questionable (T5s are considered weak, LGT700 are strong, but not sure on the fit, Many Tremecs need floor modifications beyond the shifter hole, etc).


The car itself, looks decent, and for under $15,000, SEEMS like a decent deal... I'd be careful... If its from a dealer and offering at under $15,000, I'd be skeptical though. Why would a dealer ask so little in this market?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks pretty good, I like the colour combination and the bench seat. The side trim is copy or Malibu trim with something black put on top of it from the picture I belive someone tried to copy the oem moldings at some point. Malibu had moldings at that location. I like the pg column shift if you buy it and replaced the column let me know.



The 64's came with 10 bolts only 12 bolts came 65(first years for the 8.2" 10 bolt impala got 10 and 12 bolts 65)and had diff cover like you described. With a healthy BB and manuell transmission an upgrade might be good idea.


Thanks for the info mate.

If I could find a floor shift column I would swap it. Or maybe the individual pieces will swap out rather than the entire column?

If we buy it and the column gets swapped out I will surely drop you a line. Thank you!




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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Basically, you will not need any floor modifications to "fit" a Muncie 4-speed, just a hold for the shifter...



Here's the "hump" needed for a factory 4-speed... Its not really much of a hump, but just more of an access hole for the shifter.







Picture a bit misleading, as the hole is actually on the side a bit and not directly on the top.



1964-1967 Chevelle Shift Hump With 4 Speed

$45





While this hump fits the factory shifter, it will need to be clearanced slightly if you use a Hurst shifter. Uses the same carpet, generally, although I have heard some companies offer different carpet for 4-speed floors...





Some cars, such as GTOs and 442s used a factory installed Hurst shifter, and these models used a different hump (64-67).



Since the floor pans are the same as Chevelles, these will fit the Chevelle, but may not clear a factory 64/65 console (if you went that route)... I am guessing that "4-speed" specific carpets were actually made for these humps, but suppliers rarely clarify "GTO" versus "Chevelle" regarding carpets...





For '67 Chevelles with bench seats, the four speeds used this chrome "Hump" (but still used the oval one shown above too). It would fit a Hurst shifter, and look pretty "factory"... The lower hole would need the boot to seal of the elements, but could be anything (generic/Hurst boot, etc).







Assuming it has a TH350 automatic, any 63-70 Muncie will swap right it (except the rare Pontiac full-size or 70 M22). 71 and later are slightly longer, and while they still bolt right in, they may need a shortened driveshaft and a different slip yoke. If you currently have a Powerglide or TH350, then you can use the same driveshaft, yoke and crossmember on the Muncies, as noted above). Need a bracket welded to the frame for the clutch linkage, but everything is available reproduction...



And FYI, yes, ALL Chevelles (even 64) have the rear cover on the differential. No front drop-out carriers on the Chevelles.







As for a 5-speed, most are going to require floor modifications, not only for shifter locations, but also some won't fit the tunnel without mods...



The Richmond (and old Doug Nash) 5-speeds should fit with minimal modifications, and McCleod offers a new 5-speed that is supposed to fit as well (these both generally include the driveshafts)... There may be others, but strength and or fit may be questionable (T5s are considered weak, LGT700 are strong, but not sure on the fit, Many Tremecs need floor modifications beyond the shifter hole, etc).





The car itself, looks decent, and for under $15,000, SEEMS like a decent deal... I'd be careful... If its from a dealer and offering at under $15,000, I'd be skeptical though. Why would a dealer ask so little in this market?


Wow! Thank you!!

I'm glad to hear I wouldn't need the hump to put the Muncie in. It's a bench and don't want any console.

Would be using a hurst shifter though..

Yes it has a th350 in it.

My buddy has a rotten 64 chevelle Malibu with a complete Muncie swap sitting in it.. would likely be swapping my automatic drive train for his manual one.

Nice to hear you think his price is low.. seemed high to me. Feeling like offering 13-13,500 and meet somewhere in the middle.





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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update:

Thanks to everyone for the help here. Bought it tonight for 14.

Found some minor rust, but will be taking care of it and someday having the whole thing repainted properly.

Winter project will be to take care of little things on the car while slowly building the drive train project.

Going to start a build thread to ask some questions.

Thanks guys,
Leo
 
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