[gibbons]

The axle seal on the outboard end of my 12 bolt axle was leaking, which soaked the brake linings which really reduced braking efficiency. So I yanked it down to simply put in a new seal. I found a mess left to me by the previous owner.

The original bearing contact area on the axle was all gaulled and chewed up, so they installed one of those Federal Mogul cheater bearings which puts the rollers on a fresh area of the axle, slightly outward from the original. But this put the seal so far outward, that to push the shaft in far enough to put the differential c-clip on, the radius between the bolt flange and the shaft mashed in the seal. I see no way to put the clip on without mashing a new seal.

So....can I simply buy a new axle shaft and normal bearing/seal somewhere to replace the old one? If so, how about quality between brands (if any). I think Strange makes some really expensive drag racing units, which I probably don't need and can't afford. Anyone else had this type of problem with cheater bearings and seals?

Also, The pinion shaft in the differential was really chewed up, as well as the inner bores of the pinion gears. Can I just buy those three pieces and install them without custom fitting.

While things are sort of torn down, how do I replace the front input shaft seal?

http://members.aol.com/kengibbons/auto/index.htm

 

[JWagner]

I have installed these "axle saver" bearings in a ten bolt with no problems. I would expect the twelve bolt to be similar if the bearing is inserted fully into the housing. As for the pinion seal, it is not tto hard to replace, but you must mark the nut and the end of the pinion so that you get the nut installed to the same position when you are finished so that the crush sleeve is not disturbed. The pinion shaft and gears should be easy to replace.As for the replacement axle, I have a set of '72 shafts which I do not need. However, only one of them is in good shape. Send and email this way if you are interested.

 

[Guest]

They do make the bearings you are looking for for you axles, I have them in my 67.

They also make a deal called a C-clip eliminator kit, that's the unit that the speed shops sell that cost so much. Nice stuff.

I was thinking about new axles for my 67 but the stock units are pricey, for the difference I will put Mark Williams in and never need to worry again.

 

[Scooter]

The internals are avalable, but you need to buy an entire set. This includes the side gears, spider gears, the shaft and lock pin. These usually go for about $120 where I work. That is for 10-bolts, the 12 bolts should be similar. I would be leary of replacing only a portion of the internals for the simple reason that they are in mesh with each other. The olny way you could get the pieces separate would be to purchase used parts somewhere. If it were mine, I'd buy the new kit.

 

[ETD66SS]

Check out this site for parts. http://www.tomsdifferentials.com. I plan on spending a bunch here to rebuild the 12 bolt from my 66 SS396. Have the same cheater bearings you have, I plan on getting new axles & bearings, along with an Eaton posi with new richmond 3.73 gears. It will probably cost me around $1000 to totally rebuild my rearend, but I think it will be worth it!
BTW how do you put a link into a post?

 

[67ss]

www.tomsdifferentials.com



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John 67SS
ACES #2887

 

[rick]

ETD66SS
Check this out www.chevelles.com/forum/ubbcode.html . Works every time- almost!

 

[283v8]

I installed these in my 64 12 bolt. The trick is to get them all the way in and bottomed. Mine were TIGHT - TIGHT. I would suggest cleaning up the bore slightly with sandpaper and then heating it before installation.I had the seal interference problem before the bearings were all the way bottomed. Getting the spring reinstalled in the seal after the seal is in is a BITCH, but can be done.

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[gibbons]

Thanks for the help so far. I knew this aol account was good for something.

Here are some responses to date. I assume these axle are forged, because of the split line I can see on the flange. Anyway, that split line is firmly dented as two spikes into the face of the seal ring. In fact, that seal is fully concaved in. To get the C clip off, I had to really pry inward on the shaft, and that taper on the flange bent the seal. Yes, the replacement bearing was fully seated in the shaft.

I took the shaft to a machine shop, and the guy says he can move the machined surface and radius outward a bit, which would give me a nice new surface for a seal. But then I am messing with an engineered part, and I would hate to have the flange snap off from poor work.

I went to Tom's to look around, and saw that these 12 bolts have axles in different lengths for different cars. I wonder if someone just borrowed a Nova shaft, and that's why it's too short. Maybe that's why the 15x8 / 295-60's fit under the fender lip so nicely. Where exactly do you measure from to get their measurements? I am going to call them today.

Finally, I can replace them both with Moser Engineering axles for about $250. I might have to do that. Anyone experience this?