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03 Silverado light upgrade

2K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  Aaron 
#1 ·
In the process of upgrading my headlights on my 2003 Silverado. I swapped out the factory flasher for one of those needed for LED's. I also put in a new headlight switch due to old one being burnt. I have bought some aftermarket LED's for headlights, but have not installed yet. Still running the factory beams. I did upgrade the parking lights, turn signals, and day time running lights to LEDS. I left all the rear blubs as factory for now. I have checked the relays for high beam, day time running light, low beams, and fog lights. All seem to be ok. They click and when you put a Ohm reader on them they all go to zero. My issue is I dont have any low beams and my daytime running lights don't come on. The fuse for the high beams and low beams have no power when you switch to low beams. The high beam fuses have power when on high beam. Everything else is good. My turn signal stays lite up when not flashing though.

Here are the upgrades I was trying to do.

GM All Lights On Module (2003-2007 Select Models) Fleece Performance Engineering, Inc.: Innovating Diesel Performance




FAHREN LED headlight bulbs | Fahren | United States (fahren-veh.com)

Any ideas of where to look?
 
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#3 ·
That didnt cross my mind. I just liked the real bright lights. Figured it might be a easy mod. Apparently not.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I am so tired of being blinded by cars with LED headlights. You might think it's safer but I close my eyes or look away when they drive by. It's not safer to blind the person driving toward you. Why can't they project down light a regular lamp?
 
#6 ·
Were you having problems with your truck to begin with? Stock, do the headlights function normally?

Your beginning post is all over the place, sorry. You said the relays seem ok? Have you measured across pins 87 and 30 when the relay coil is energized? What do you mean they all go to 0 when you put a ohm reader on them? What exactly are you measuring?

It looks like you have individual fuses for right/left headlight, are both not getting power when low beams are on? Do the relay coils have ground in the fuse box?





Bill, I was always taught to watch the white line when someone goes by with high beams/misadjusted headlights. We have a stupid amount of squatted trucks with the highest lumen output LED headlights they can find, it's friggin ridiculous. Thing they don't realize is the cheap LEDs are usually 5-8K temp. This is blue/pure blue light. Blue light scatters, it does not penetrate, that's why they're retina searing but don't illuminate well. Notice fog lights are yellow? The reason is yellow light penetrates air and water molecules to give you far reaching light. The LEDs have little to no yellow light and are crap.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Not sure why you said all other the place. Maybe I didnt explain well enough.

No issues with stock lights from the get go except burnt blubs. I just wanted brighter lights as I have seen lights get better from the factory. I figured that there are aftermarket solutions to upgrade older vehicles.

In looking around for potential ways of doing this, I came across Fleece performance solution to a mod that seemed to be done in typical hot rodding fashion among modern vehicles that use more complicated wiring than chevelle era technology. Fleece seem to come up with a good idea.

I bought the Fleece performance piece, after first asking of any issues being used with replacement LED's over stock halogen blubs. LED's require and a upgraded flasher to stop the LED hyper blink, which was installed from the get go. Fleece ensured all things would be ok. I have a question in to them about problems I experienced a few months back, but have not heard back. I have a lot of things I'm working on at a time, so all of this is a work in progress.

I bought LED's for the turn signals, daytime running lights, and side marker. That is all I replaced. I had planned to upgrade the taillights are well, but haven't gotten that far before problems occurred. I had ordered the upgraded high and low beam blubs but when I installed the Fleece piece, they have not come in yet. Therefore, the upgraded high beams and low beam blubs have not be introduced yet. I installed the Fleece performance piece and immediately I lost low beams and daytime driving lights with the Fleece diode in there.

Took it out and sent off a email, which I have said that, I have not heard back yet from Fleece. Maybe the issue is the LED.

I will go back and discuss what I found after investigating.

What went out was the use of low beams and use of daytime running lights with the use of Fleece diode and LED's in the daytime running lights, turn signal, and side marker.

High beams are fine and tail lights are fine. Turn signals all work without hyper blink with the upgraded LED flasher installed

Daytime running lights don't come on and my turn signals wanted to stay on like daytime running lights do.

I do have 4 fuses that seem to run the high beams and low beams for a 2003 Silverado.

There is power at the high beam fuses when in use. Meaning that these two fuses have power.

However when you switch to the low beams those two low beam fuses have no power at them. No power getting to the fuse box at those two fuses.

Daytime running lights have power at the fusebox

I pull the 4 relays that the Fleece Performance diode sit under. They all click when 12 volts are applied to 86 and a ground to 85. Some seem to click slowly though.

While 12 volts were applied to those pins, I then checked ohms by way of putting a positive probe ohm reader on the 87 pin and the ground probe on 30 to detect a electrical path. I got some numbers and then the reading went to 0.00. Im not a electrician but my knowledge tells myself that the relays are ok.

I assume the fuse box does have a undisturbed ground.

I have since replaced the LED's with factory style replacement blubs. Two 194's and 4 3157 blubs. The issue of no daytime running lights and no low beams are still present.

I assume so far that the Fleece performance diode has fried a switch. I dont know where or if that is a correct assumption.

Will have to study the diagram you provided. Been studying the ones that I have on hand.

My connectors for the daytime running lights are not the best in the world, but I dont think that is a issue.

Perhaps a issue with the dimmer switch or BCM?
 
#8 ·
I cant count the times ive had to repair led lamp install problems. Burnt out distribution blocks ,bcm shorted, wiring melted, burnt dimmer circuits ,dash melted, our gm rep says anything aftermarket warranty is void.Expensive repairs.You cant modify low impedance circuits anymore like you could without getting into trouble.Not saying the kits cant work but the installer likely causes the issue. Ive seen park brake swith stuck and drl relay open lots of times to .You have to check for power feed, usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm.
 
#9 ·
Can you explain this.

"usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm."

You act like those get changed alot?
 
#11 ·
Maybe, I thought it was a good purchase.

I dont care about what is legal and what is not legal on cars. That is a bunch of BS.

Anyway, maybe I can get things going.
 
#17 ·
Thanks Hotwire, will look over your reply and comments a little later.
 
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