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In the process of upgrading my headlights on my 2003 Silverado. I swapped out the factory flasher for one of those needed for LED's. I also put in a new headlight switch due to old one being burnt. I have bought some aftermarket LED's for headlights, but have not installed yet. Still running the factory beams. I did upgrade the parking lights, turn signals, and day time running lights to LEDS. I left all the rear blubs as factory for now. I have checked the relays for high beam, day time running light, low beams, and fog lights. All seem to be ok. They click and when you put a Ohm reader on them they all go to zero. My issue is I dont have any low beams and my daytime running lights don't come on. The fuse for the high beams and low beams have no power when you switch to low beams. The high beam fuses have power when on high beam. Everything else is good. My turn signal stays lite up when not flashing though.

Here are the upgrades I was trying to do.

GM All Lights On Module (2003-2007 Select Models) Fleece Performance Engineering, Inc.: Innovating Diesel Performance




FAHREN LED headlight bulbs | Fahren | United States (fahren-veh.com)

Any ideas of where to look?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That didnt cross my mind. I just liked the real bright lights. Figured it might be a easy mod. Apparently not.
 

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Bill
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I am so tired of being blinded by cars with LED headlights. You might think it's safer but I close my eyes or look away when they drive by. It's not safer to blind the person driving toward you. Why can't they project down light a regular lamp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am so tired of being blinded by cars with LED headlights. You might think it's safer but I close my eyes or look away when they drive by. It's not safer to blind the person driving toward you. Why can't they project down light a regular lamp?

Good thought.
 

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1964 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door
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Were you having problems with your truck to begin with? Stock, do the headlights function normally?

Your beginning post is all over the place, sorry. You said the relays seem ok? Have you measured across pins 87 and 30 when the relay coil is energized? What do you mean they all go to 0 when you put a ohm reader on them? What exactly are you measuring?

It looks like you have individual fuses for right/left headlight, are both not getting power when low beams are on? Do the relay coils have ground in the fuse box?





Bill, I was always taught to watch the white line when someone goes by with high beams/misadjusted headlights. We have a stupid amount of squatted trucks with the highest lumen output LED headlights they can find, it's friggin ridiculous. Thing they don't realize is the cheap LEDs are usually 5-8K temp. This is blue/pure blue light. Blue light scatters, it does not penetrate, that's why they're retina searing but don't illuminate well. Notice fog lights are yellow? The reason is yellow light penetrates air and water molecules to give you far reaching light. The LEDs have little to no yellow light and are crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Were you having problems with your truck to begin with? Stock, do the headlights function normally?

Your beginning post is all over the place, sorry. You said the relays seem ok? Have you measured across pins 87 and 30 when the relay coil is energized? What do you mean they all go to 0 when you put a ohm reader on them? What exactly are you measuring?

It looks like you have individual fuses for right/left headlight, are both not getting power when low beams are on? Do the relay coils have ground in the fuse box?





Bill, I was always taught to watch the white line when someone goes by with high beams/misadjusted headlights. We have a stupid amount of squatted trucks with the highest lumen output LED headlights they can find, it's friggin ridiculous. Thing they don't realize is the cheap LEDs are usually 5-8K temp. This is blue/pure blue light. Blue light scatters, it does not penetrate, that's why they're retina searing but don't illuminate well. Notice fog lights are yellow? The reason is yellow light penetrates air and water molecules to give you far reaching light. The LEDs have little to no yellow light and are crap.
Not sure why you said all other the place. Maybe I didnt explain well enough.

No issues with stock lights from the get go except burnt blubs. I just wanted brighter lights as I have seen lights get better from the factory. I figured that there are aftermarket solutions to upgrade older vehicles.

In looking around for potential ways of doing this, I came across Fleece performance solution to a mod that seemed to be done in typical hot rodding fashion among modern vehicles that use more complicated wiring than chevelle era technology. Fleece seem to come up with a good idea.

I bought the Fleece performance piece, after first asking of any issues being used with replacement LED's over stock halogen blubs. LED's require and a upgraded flasher to stop the LED hyper blink, which was installed from the get go. Fleece ensured all things would be ok. I have a question in to them about problems I experienced a few months back, but have not heard back. I have a lot of things I'm working on at a time, so all of this is a work in progress.

I bought LED's for the turn signals, daytime running lights, and side marker. That is all I replaced. I had planned to upgrade the taillights are well, but haven't gotten that far before problems occurred. I had ordered the upgraded high and low beam blubs but when I installed the Fleece piece, they have not come in yet. Therefore, the upgraded high beams and low beam blubs have not be introduced yet. I installed the Fleece performance piece and immediately I lost low beams and daytime driving lights with the Fleece diode in there.

Took it out and sent off a email, which I have said that, I have not heard back yet from Fleece. Maybe the issue is the LED.

I will go back and discuss what I found after investigating.

What went out was the use of low beams and use of daytime running lights with the use of Fleece diode and LED's in the daytime running lights, turn signal, and side marker.

High beams are fine and tail lights are fine. Turn signals all work without hyper blink with the upgraded LED flasher installed

Daytime running lights don't come on and my turn signals wanted to stay on like daytime running lights do.

I do have 4 fuses that seem to run the high beams and low beams for a 2003 Silverado.

There is power at the high beam fuses when in use. Meaning that these two fuses have power.

However when you switch to the low beams those two low beam fuses have no power at them. No power getting to the fuse box at those two fuses.

Daytime running lights have power at the fusebox

I pull the 4 relays that the Fleece Performance diode sit under. They all click when 12 volts are applied to 86 and a ground to 85. Some seem to click slowly though.

While 12 volts were applied to those pins, I then checked ohms by way of putting a positive probe ohm reader on the 87 pin and the ground probe on 30 to detect a electrical path. I got some numbers and then the reading went to 0.00. Im not a electrician but my knowledge tells myself that the relays are ok.

I assume the fuse box does have a undisturbed ground.

I have since replaced the LED's with factory style replacement blubs. Two 194's and 4 3157 blubs. The issue of no daytime running lights and no low beams are still present.

I assume so far that the Fleece performance diode has fried a switch. I dont know where or if that is a correct assumption.

Will have to study the diagram you provided. Been studying the ones that I have on hand.

My connectors for the daytime running lights are not the best in the world, but I dont think that is a issue.

Perhaps a issue with the dimmer switch or BCM?
 

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I cant count the times ive had to repair led lamp install problems. Burnt out distribution blocks ,bcm shorted, wiring melted, burnt dimmer circuits ,dash melted, our gm rep says anything aftermarket warranty is void.Expensive repairs.You cant modify low impedance circuits anymore like you could without getting into trouble.Not saying the kits cant work but the installer likely causes the issue. Ive seen park brake swith stuck and drl relay open lots of times to .You have to check for power feed, usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I cant count the times ive had to repair led lamp install problems. Burnt out distribution blocks ,bcm shorted, wiring melted, burnt dimmer circuits ,dash melted, our gm rep says anything aftermarket warranty is void.Expensive repairs.You cant modify low impedance circuits anymore like you could without getting into trouble.Not saying the kits cant work but the installer likely causes the issue. Ive seen park brake swith stuck and drl relay open lots of times to .You have to check for power feed, usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm.
Can you explain this.

"usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm."

You act like those get changed alot?
 

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that part seems like a real expensive way to do something you can do with a 25 cent diode. also all LED and HID are not legal to install in a car that didn't come with them( not that I wouldn't do it anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that part seems like a real expensive way to do something you can do with a 25 cent diode. also all LED and HID are not legal to install in a car that didn't come with them( not that I wouldn't do it anyway).
Maybe, I thought it was a good purchase.

I dont care about what is legal and what is not legal on cars. That is a bunch of BS.

Anyway, maybe I can get things going.
 

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I am so tired of being blinded by cars with LED headlights. You might think it's safer but I close my eyes or look away when they drive by. It's not safer to blind the person driving toward you. Why can't they project down light a regular lamp?
AFAIK, the replacement assemblys can be adjusted for vertical and horizontal aim. when I replaced the complete units in my 02 Silvy, I measured the current adjustments and duplicated that on the replacement ones!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
AFAIK, the replacement assemblys can be adjusted for vertical and horizontal aim. when I replaced the complete units in my 02 Silvy, I measured the current adjustments and duplicated that on the replacement ones!!
Can we stay on topic of getting this sorted out. Adjustments are always a pain, regardless of what your doing.
 

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Can we stay on topic of getting this sorted out. Adjustments are always a pain, regardless of what your doing.
I am staying on subject, the replacement assembly's won't be in adjustment, do whatever you want, you're gonna anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am staying on subject, the replacement assembly's won't be in adjustment, do whatever you want, you're gonna anyway.

Yeah, I didnt mean anything by what I said. I was just saying to stay on what happened. I agree if a replacement assembly is used. Whether it is used or new, there will need a adjustment.
 
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Not sure why you said all other the place. Maybe I didnt explain well enough.

No issues with stock lights from the get go except burnt blubs. I just wanted brighter lights as I have seen lights get better from the factory. I figured that there are aftermarket solutions to upgrade older vehicles.
.....
I meant you started talking about upgrading your headlights, then went in about turn signals, flasher, etc. Original post was hard to read as to what you were having problems with and where/when they started. No harm, just couldn't figure out what happened when and where to start looking.

Can you explain this.

"usually drk blue at drl socket and light green and black at bcm."

You act like those get changed alot?
If your parking brake is on, your DRLs will not turn on. Sometimes the parking brake switch is faulty, but I don't think that's your case as all this happened after the fleece install. You can check the drk blue wire @ the DRL and see if you're getting power (see page 3 of schematic below).

I'm betting they had a diode backwards and you popped a fuse.

You know how the relays work and can work a meter. With key on, engine off, check pin 30 of the DRL relay and see that it has power. Also check 85/86, one of those pins should have power, the other should be grounded through the BCM. (This needs to be done in the daytime OR a flashlight lighting up the ambient light sensor on the dash)

Go here and download DownloadPDF29, it's a 3 page PDF and shows the wiring diagram for your headlights/DRLs.



You can then cut the headlight switch on and do the same probing to see that the low beam relay is getting what it needs to turn on.

I think you just need to go through the fuses and find the main fuse feeding the lighting relay. If not, was the fleece module easy to install w/ the relays? Did it bend any pins or mess up the receptacles in the fuse box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Hotwire, will look over your reply and comments a little later.
 

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Thanks Hotwire, will look over your reply and comments a little later.
Not a problem, I have your underhood fusebox behind the gauge cluster of my 64, slightly familiar with the setup. 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not a problem, I have your underhood fusebox behind the gauge cluster of my 64, slightly familiar with the setup. 😉

Nice project. I like that stuff, but not in my chevelle. I appreciate your help and reply.
 
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