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    1. · Banned
      Joined
      ·
      9,464 Posts
      1.) Keep the build to 10k or less.
      2.) Carb to Pan.
      3.) No Power adders.
      3.) Using a 3500lbs 69 Chevelle.
      4.) Bore could be anything between 4.00" to 4.125".
      5.) Automatic Trans.
      6.) Car will be 95% Track.
      7.) No Big Blocks (Serious about this)
      8.) Looking for mid to high 10's.
      Ok, thats fair enough

      *Bore the block .040" over and install the pistons from Keith black i suggest, they weigh 454grams and need a 6" rod
      http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=385

      Here is a link to Summit for the pistons above for $458.99
      http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=UEM-KB799-8&autoview=sku

      *Use the following rings here, set the top ring to .020", set the second ring to .025"-.030". When you buy this ring set ask to upgrade to the napier second ring {it may already come with it, Call Total Seal}.
      Rings are $105.95
      http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TSR-CRG3690-45&N=700+115&autoview=sku

      *When it comes to rods you can use Eagle H-beams. If it is in the budget step up to GRP Aluminum, GRP Aluminum rods for that application are $818 for a set. If you choose to run Eagle i would run the following with the bolt upgrade which is 265,000psi +. It is L19, thats what ARP calls it, to give you a better idea of what it is, Have you heard od "Tool Steel". Thats what L19 is
      So we have $524.99 for the rods
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/CRS6000B3DL1/10002/-1
      Or GRP Aluminum for $818.00

      *When it comes to the crank i would do a Scat or an Eagle. Your preference. Both are good quality material and are somewhat Equal in terms of material. I will link both cranks below
      Eagle crank costs $629.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/435034805700/10002/-1
      Scat crank costs $629.99
      I like Crower and Bryant cranks but dont get to use them much because cost, people dont want to pay that much money. Some people such as Mike say the Callies cheaper stuf is on the money, might want to look in that too. Lunati cranks work good, here is a link to the Lunati sledgehammer crank for $809.99, All i can say is the Lunati Pro Series cranks are good, not sure about these
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/AF115AN/10002/-1#

      *As to the camshaft, I would go with that Lunati if you dont have a problem with a 5,500rpm converter, 4.56-5.38 gears and 8,000rpm past the lights. The camshaft is $2.00 cheaper from Lunati than Jeg's @ $338.63

      http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1802&gid=249

      *For lifters i would look at the following for $357.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/11519-16/10002/-1
      If you want what i consider to be the best go with these for $541.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/11570-16/10002/-1

      *With the cam and a .026/.026 valve lash your net lift will be .655" on the intake and .606 exhaust. Here are the springs and retainers i would look at:
      $336.99 for the Manley springs
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/22440-16/10002/-1
      You will need these retainers with that spring for $194.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/23658-16/10002/-1

      If you want the ULTIMATE in valve control and RPM you MUST use a rocker arm that you clearance for the springs or shaft mounts but will be the best spring to run "In My Opinion"
      You can run these springs set up @ 1.95" and they will run you $377.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/99880-16/10002/-1# - These springs at my suggested 1.95" will give you 275 pounds seat pressure. The springs @ 1.95" when you install them will be around 298 but after 10-15 passes they will drop to the 275 advertised and will last you about 70-80 passes
      If you run them you MUST run a very good spring retainer, I like the Crane Cams "Posi-Stop" retainers. The ones needed with those 1.625" springs are part # 99675-16 and they run $326.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/99675-16/10002/-1#

      If you go stud rockers and use the 1.625" springs only open up the rocker in the recess thats already there. It can be done with success, you can also use stainless steel rockers and clearance them or just use a set of shaft mount rockers

      If you use the 1.55" springs, use a good 5/16" pushrod. If you use the 1.625" springs use the largest pushrod you can get in there. I know with GM castings you can get a 7/16"-3/8" tapper pushrod in there with alot of work and Dart's you can get a 7/16" pushrod in there. You will have some very carefull work to do though and use offset rockers. Without an offset rocker most heads you can fit 3/8" with some carefull grinding. A 3/8" heavy wall will work with the 1.625" springs but the 7/16" .165" wall would be best for the RPM and spring pressure

      Use King bearings or Clevite "V" series or Clevite "H" series. Use a Dart or Super Victor or Victor E intake with a Pro Systems 950 based carb. If there is a budget left use a Jesel belt drive. Launch @ 5,000rpm+ if the suspension will take it at your track on that given day. A Transbrake is a must !!!!!
       
    2. · Premium Member
      Joined
      ·
      5,087 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #17 ·
      Ok, thats fair enough

      *Bore the block .040" over and install the pistons from Keith black i suggest, they weigh 454grams and need a 6" rod
      http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=385

      Here is a link to Summit for the pistons above for $458.99
      http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=UEM-KB799-8&autoview=sku

      *Use the following rings here, set the top ring to .020", set the second ring to .025"-.030". When you buy this ring set ask to upgrade to the napier second ring {it may already come with it, Call Total Seal}.
      Rings are $105.95
      http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TSR-CRG3690-45&N=700+115&autoview=sku

      *When it comes to rods you can use Eagle H-beams. If it is in the budget step up to GRP Aluminum, GRP Aluminum rods for that application are $818 for a set. If you choose to run Eagle i would run the following with the bolt upgrade which is 265,000psi +. It is L19, thats what ARP calls it, to give you a better idea of what it is, Have you heard od "Tool Steel". Thats what L19 is
      So we have $524.99 for the rods
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/CRS6000B3DL1/10002/-1
      Or GRP Aluminum for $818.00

      *When it comes to the crank i would do a Scat or an Eagle. Your preference. Both are good quality material and are somewhat Equal in terms of material. I will link both cranks below
      Eagle crank costs $629.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/435034805700/10002/-1
      Scat crank costs $629.99
      I like Crower and Bryant cranks but dont get to use them much because cost, people dont want to pay that much money. Some people such as Mike say the Callies cheaper stuf is on the money, might want to look in that too. Lunati cranks work good, here is a link to the Lunati sledgehammer crank for $809.99, All i can say is the Lunati Pro Series cranks are good, not sure about these
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/AF115AN/10002/-1#

      *As to the camshaft, I would go with that Lunati if you dont have a problem with a 5,500rpm converter, 4.56-5.38 gears and 8,000rpm past the lights. The camshaft is $2.00 cheaper from Lunati than Jeg's @ $338.63

      http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1802&gid=249

      *For lifters i would look at the following for $357.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/11519-16/10002/-1
      If you want what i consider to be the best go with these for $541.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/11570-16/10002/-1

      *With the cam and a .026/.026 valve lash your net lift will be .655" on the intake and .606 exhaust. Here are the springs and retainers i would look at:
      $336.99 for the Manley springs
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/22440-16/10002/-1
      You will need these retainers with that spring for $194.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/23658-16/10002/-1

      If you want the ULTIMATE in valve control and RPM you MUST use a rocker arm that you clearance for the springs or shaft mounts but will be the best spring to run "In My Opinion"
      You can run these springs set up @ 1.95" and they will run you $377.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/99880-16/10002/-1# - These springs at my suggested 1.95" will give you 275 pounds seat pressure. The springs @ 1.95" when you install them will be around 298 but after 10-15 passes they will drop to the 275 advertised and will last you about 70-80 passes
      If you run them you MUST run a very good spring retainer, I like the Crane Cams "Posi-Stop" retainers. The ones needed with those 1.625" springs are part # 99675-16 and they run $326.99
      http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/99675-16/10002/-1#

      If you go stud rockers and use the 1.625" springs only open up the rocker in the recess thats already there. It can be done with success, you can also use stainless steel rockers and clearance them or just use a set of shaft mount rockers

      If you use the 1.55" springs, use a good 5/16" pushrod. If you use the 1.625" springs use the largest pushrod you can get in there. I know with GM castings you can get a 7/16"-3/8" tapper pushrod in there with alot of work and Dart's you can get a 7/16" pushrod in there. You will have some very carefull work to do though and use offset rockers. Without an offset rocker most heads you can fit 3/8" with some carefull grinding. A 3/8" heavy wall will work with the 1.625" springs but the 7/16" .165" wall would be best for the RPM and spring pressure

      Use King bearings or Clevite "V" series or Clevite "H" series. Use a Dart or Super Victor or Victor E intake with a Pro Systems 950 based carb. If there is a budget left use a Jesel belt drive. Launch @ 5,000rpm+ if the suspension will take it at your track on that given day. A Transbrake is a must !!!!!
      Boy did you do a lot of work with your idea for a build. I really do thank you.:yes:
      Did you notice I didn't drag the old heads along with this build like I was insisting on before. If we went with a Dart head could we get it fitted from Dart with our choice of valves/size and springs for this above build?

      What size of carb do you recommend for this build? Brand/Size.
      Are we still working on a 355?
       
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