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Rookie Mistake.. - Need help on resistor wire 67 Chevelle SS

2K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  B67SS396 
#1 ·
As the title says, I've made a rookie mistake..:mad:

While cleaning up, fixing wiring under the Dash, and through the engine compartment ( and learning at the same time ); I came across what I wrongly assumed was just a regular ignition wire running to the +post of Ignition coil. Car is still running off Distributor/Coil and points system. Mistake I made was this wire ( which I know now is the resistor wire ) had a pinch in it, with some wire exposed and frayed. Since the wire seemed extra long to me.. ( now know it's supposed to be ) I cut about 14" off to remove the damaged area and reconnected to the coil.

This was done about a week ago, and I haven't tried starting it yet since I was still finishing off a few things with Battery Cables/Disconnects.

Any suggestions? Is there a test I should run? Do I need to find a replacement wire?
Anyone know what the proper length should be? or what type of wire I need to find?

Thanks in advance,
B.
 
#2 ·
Yes, replace either the wire, or put a copper wire in its place, with a NAPA ICR13 porcelain resistor.

BOTH the porcelain, and the full wire resistors have a 1.80 ohm value. To get there, the porcelain resistor has a coil inside the body. The wire is silver stranded wire, with a set length of 7 - 1/2 FEET to get the correct resistance and current loading.

In curring the resistor wire, you changed the loading current to the points, and they will burn a lot quicker than normal. Resistor wires used to be available from stores like NAPA< but, if the wire is replaced with a non-resistor wire, and the porcelain resistor added, the system will sork the points just as stock, fine.

The reason the wire is so long stock is, cars were available with either an I6 or V8 engine, with the V8 coil in the center of the firewall, the I6 had the distributor in the front of the engine. ONE length wire worked for either, but the V8 longer length was run towords the solenoid, then reversed inside the wiring loom back to the coil. I6, over the center of the engine, then down the pass side of the block to the coil
 
#5 ·
The old NAPA replacement had the ends set up with a round terminal on the coil end, with a copper wire and round terminal on the starter bypass wire. The other end of the resistor wire had the male flat blade terminal that attaches into the bulk head fitting on the firewall.
 
#6 ·
I finished all the other battery/disconnect stuff I was working on, and hooked everything up as I have it now. I tested the voltage reading at the +Terminal on coil, with the key tuned on ( and a fully charged new battery ) and got a reading of 5.88v.
I then started the engine and checked it again while running and got 10.8v.

I think I read somewhere(?) that key turned it should be 6-7volts, and running it should be about 9volts with the proper resistance (wire or other set up). So guessing the piece I took out is what's keeping me from dropping to 9v instead of the 10.88.
 
#7 ·
I think I read somewhere(?) that key turned it should be 6-7volts, and running it should be about 9volts with the proper resistance (wire or other set up). So guessing the piece I took out is what's keeping me from dropping to 9v instead of the 10.88.
Do you still have that piece for wire you cut off? If so, splice it back on, but use the proper sized butt-splice. Should be about 20-22 gauge. I'm going to look this morning to see if I still have that wire.
 
#9 ·
I looked for the resistor wire this morning. I only found new HEI power and tach wires. Sorry.
Hopefully the splicing will do the trick.

When you go to splice the wire back together, Cut the ferrel from the plastic insulator. After you get it crimped on the wires, slip a piece of heat shrink over the ferrel and shrink it down. Doing this, keeps the "bulk" down in the wiring harness. You'll never see where the splice is.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for checking Chris, appreciate it!
I did the splice, just need to check the volts when running at the coil.. Unfortunately I also did a bunch of service stuff on it today, and when changing the fuel filter noticed a crack in the fuel line to carb. So going to fix that first before firing it up again..
 
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