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Header Fitment Doesn't Look Right

4K views 24 replies 20 participants last post by  RickH 
#1 ·
Photo (1) is the right (passenger side) header. Photo (2) is the left (driver side) header. Notice the distance from the upper control arm cross-shaft bolts. The left side has plenty of clearance. The right side is extremely close. The right, rear bolt had to be shortened about 1/4" just to get the header installed.

These are Hedman HTC 68198. Hedman tech line tells me they have never heard of any clearance problems in this area. I think this is too close. Maybe a defect in how the tubes for this particular header were bent, or the wrong header slipped in along the way? Any other opinions?

When I compare this to my 1971, with Hooker Competition headers, the number 4 and 6 pipes are tucked closer to the block, allowing about the same clearance as on the left side.
 

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#2 ·
Is the motor centered between the frame rails? May have to loosen frame stands and slide everything as far as possible to side with lots of clearance.
 
#3 ·
Mine is very similar - had to shorten that bolt too to clear.
 
#5 ·
As long as the motor is centered I wouldn't worry about it. Take measurements from the frame rails to the center of both the trans and crank. The dimensions won't be exactly the same. You're looking to compare an offset measurement if not completely centered.
 
#6 ·
I have the same headers on my '67 with stock height heads and mine are centered. Something looks shifted to the right in yours.
 
#8 ·
It's a '69.

I'll take measurements when I get home, tonight; however, I don't remember anywhere to make adjustments on the frame towers or engine mounts. The frame towers bolted straight to the frame, with no slots for movement. The engine mounts the same way - no way to adjust.
 
#9 ·
It's a '69.

I'll take measurements when I get home, tonight; however, I don't remember anywhere to make adjustments on the frame towers or engine mounts. The frame towers bolted straight to the frame, with no slots for movement. The engine mounts the same way - no way to adjust.
Friend worked in a frame shop. Chevelle # 1 rear ended another car striking the rear with its driver front. This caused massive damage naturally but not damage that couldn't be repaired supposedly back to factory tolerance specs. It was discovered after straightening that the frontal collision had moved the engine towards and down lower on the passenger side about a 1/4 of an inch via an almost unnoticeable buckled cross member engine frame mount area on one side and raised frame mount on the other of the cross member at the driver side.
Doubt this is your issue but just wanted to offer it up.
 
#10 ·
Factory big block car or were the engine mounts changed ?
 
#12 ·
No steering column. The body is not yet installed. I'd like to get this issue ironed out, before I install the body.

It's hard to get precise points to measure, but the best I can see is the engine is centered in the frame, within 1/4" or less.
 
#13 ·
Check out the other thread about custom exhaust.

It may be cheaper for you to return those headers and find someone who can build a set of headers for you.

You will just have to check into that.
 
#23 ·
Have you measured the distance between the upper control arm mounts? If the crossmember sags it brings the upper arm mounts closer together.

Here is some info from http://www.einstyn.com/

It is very important before putting too much work into the frame to check it for “frame sag”. Frame sag occurs with age and use of a vehicle. It effects the front-end alignment. If a frame is sagged too much, you can tell if the front-end alignment cannot be achieved and all the shims under the front upper control arms are out from between the c-arm shafts and the frame. By measuring the distance between the c-arm mounts you can see how much your frame has sagged. A new frame measures 32”. A frame that measures 31-3/8” is too close. You should have at least 31-3/4” to start with. You can get away with offset shafts if it is not closer then 31-3/8” but the best fix is to take it to a frame shop and have them pull it back out to 32” while you have it apart. If you are using stock c-arms there is a concern with the clearance as frames sag, between the c-arm shaft bolts and steering shaft and the exhaust manifolds or headers on big blocks.
Mine measured 31 3/4" and the headers clear fine. The clearance is substantially more.

Hedman shorty headers from a 67 Camaro are being used. This was during mock up of the 72 frame build.

 
#24 ·
RickH. I have the same headers on my 69 BB. Just went out and looked and took some measurements. Mine looks just like yours except on the pass. side my bolt to the rear of control arm has 3 or 4 threads cut off. giving me 5/8" clearance to header..3/4" clearance at pass. frt. bolt./ On drivers side have 1 1/4 clearance at frt. bolt and 1 1/2 at rear bolt.
 
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