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clutch adj

2K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  p40 
#1 ·
hey all when i put some free travel in my clutch pedal have a hard time getting in gear take out the free travel it goes in gear but its not smooth, need help thanks to all replies , 66 chevelle ss bb 427, zoom clutch, pp, like new flywheel all new z bar and linkage :beers:
 
#3 ·
Did you know that:
Not all pressure plates have the same finger height;
Not all throw out bearings have the same installed height;
Not all release arms are the same length;
Not all pivot balls are the same height;
Not all flywheels have the same surface height?

Now stack the tolerances on any two of those items and you can get the problem you are experiencing. Been there, done that, got the merit badge.

Maybe you will find your answer in here.
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/33...e/1073450-whats-wrong-my-clutch-part-2-a.html
 
#8 ·
Yes, lengthening will takeout free travel at the top of the pedal which in turn will make the pedal catch higher off the floor. If you adjust it try one full turn of the rod and see how that is then go from there. :thumbsup:
 
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#9 ·
thanks john and hank , thats what i thought , but wasnt 100 percent sure. like i was saying when i go for the free play the trans just does want to go in gear, im wandering if i fab a longer clutch rod would that work . im 68 y/o and dont get up and down l hate to tear it apart again , any ideas thanks guys
 
#10 ·
I'm your age too and know how the up and down isn't as easy as it used to be. The closer the pedal catches to the floor the more chance you would have a harder time shifting it and a better chance of the transmission grinding when you put it in reverse. When you drive it see if your really matting the pedal when you put it in. Every once in a while I would notice I wasn't pushing the clutch in all the way especially if I got a grind in reverse. If everything is set up right there should be no reason to go to a longer rod than the stock one that's in the car. :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
your spot on hank. the closer to the floor the clutch grabs the harder to go in gear i just dont know were to start every thing is brand new . i talked to a tech at zoom and he thinks i need an adj fork bal. im old school dont know nothing abought that stuff but im willing to listen if someone wants to explain how to adj it thanks
 
#12 ·
Check your clutch pedal stop. If it's original it will be about 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. If it's thicker it may be a repop. You can trim it down to gain some free play.

The wrong clutch fork will cheat you out of fork movement. If you have a clutch fork with "wings" it's a Lakewood or truck fork. It's longer and results in less fork travel.

As Alan eluded, if your clutch fork angle is not correct you won't be able to achieve enough free play or clutch release. You'll smoke the throwout bearing if it's not releasing and you'll grind your gears and wear syncros if you don't get a full clutch release. No adding length of adjustment rod or bell crank modification can overcome an improperly set clutch fork angle.

Basically, you need to start at the top and adjust your clutch fork angle so it will work within the limits GM gave us to work within. This is done with an adjustable pivot ball or adjustable throwout bearing.

Check the item listed above and see if you can get it to work for you. You should be able to achieve some freeplay on the throwout bearing and still be able to get into reverse from neutral within about 9 seconds without grinding. If she grinds, you're not getting full clutch release.

Take a look at your clutch fork angle. The fork should we 5-7 degrees forward of parallel to the trans shaft with the fork held against the throwout bearing. It will be very close to the front of the bellhousing window. If it is clearly back of 90 degress, it will have to come apart and clutch fork angle corrected.

Fork on left is H.D. truck or Lakewood type. Fork on right is correct for 65- 72 Chevelle.
 

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#13 ·
This is a primer of what you'll be going through if you need to adjust your clutchfork angle by using an adjustable pivot ball. It starts a bit into the video at 4:25. The beginning has tips that are worthy as well. After you get the pivot ball height set, apply red lock tight to all threads and reassemble. They like to come loose if you don't.

You might want to align your bell housing too.:frown2: It's not fun, but might as well getter done if you have the beans now so it doesn't bite you in the butt later.

 
#14 ·
This is a primer of what you'll be going through if you need to adjust your clutchfork angle by using an adjustable pivot ball. It starts a bit into the video at 4:25. The beginning has tips that are worthy as well. After you get the pivot ball height set, apply red lock tight to all threads and reassemble. They like to come loose if you don't.

You might want to align your bell housing too.:frown2: It's not fun, but might as well getter done if you have the beans now so it doesn't bite you in the butt later.

Part 16 How To Set The CFor The Big Block Chevy - YouTube
thanks al for the info and vidio awsome info on the vidio. i dont have the fork with wings so i should be good to go on that , who seels the adj pivit ball thanks:thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
https://smile.amazon.com/Lakewood-1...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XJHVEE3MKG1H2WNB0N0P

https://smile.amazon.com/National-P...=gateway&sprefix=pilot+bushing,aps,255&sr=8-3

Adjustable pivot ball and recommended magnetic free oillite bronze input bushing. Don;t know if you need the bushing, I keep an extra in my box just incase I need it.

With the stock bellhousing an extended pilot bushing should not be needed. If you had a scatter shield with block plate then an extended pilot bushing is often needed.

Since it's likely your engine was line bored, I highly recommend a bellhousing alignment both parallel and concentric for trouble free operation.
 
#25 ·
Even if you go that route, which is what I did, you will still need to measure out your components to set the height. It’s not impossible to adjust after installed but has a locking nut that I felt needed to be secured before it was installed. Good luck!
 
#21 ·
Here's more info. Might as well study up and earn the Clutch set up merit badge while you are waiting on your parts.

It's worth reading, especially the parts on pre testing the parts before installation.

The last picture shows the clutch fork with a 5-7 degree forward angle with the throw out bearing against the diaphragm fingers. When I set one up, I'll use the measurement method in the video. Then I'll confirm the forward 5-7 degress visually all before I install the trans. I take it one step further and install all the linkage, do an adjustment for freeplay, then cycle the clutch and check to see if disc is free and I have sufficient free play at the throw out bearing. To do this inset an old input shaft or clutch alignment tool before you install the trans. Keep your fingers clear of the hole and fingers when you cycle the clutch.
 

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#22 ·
Forgot to tell you to center the throw out bearing on fingers before you have someone slowly push in the clutch pedal. Sometimes this will trip a guy up. He installs the bearing completely against the fork and now it doesn't line up with the fingers. In use, the throw out bearing rides outwards from that position on the trans fork and is held in place by the input tube of the trans. Just a heads up.

Since you are going to have it apart, inspect the input bushing. You should have .002 to .003 clearance to the input shaft. Stock shaft dimension is .590 and you want your installed input bearing to be .592 to .593 ideally. Too tight and she'll bind making shifts more difficult and cause grinding. Lately I've been seeing more of these bushings out of spec when installed. I use a .592 reamer
or .593 reamer to get into spec.
 
#27 ·
hey all , well i got my clutch adj problems cured with the help of my team chevelle bros, had to use an adj clutch arm pivit ball , well now iv got it lined im not satisfied with the clutch , its takes 2 men and a boy to push down its to stiff for me , what brand stock replacement would u guys suggest ive reading abought the luk clutch, just wondering what u street guys are running dont intend to put it on the track thanks butch
 
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