At least a few people have experienced (and asked about) hard gas pedal after converting to the Sniper EFI.
It's not anyone's imagination, for sure.
The throttle bracket is shorter than any Holley, Quick Fuel, Holley based carbs out there, so what worked great BEFORE, now feels like you're trying to push the pedal through the floor...
Very annoying since it makes the car very hard to take off from a stop, smoothly...I can't even imagine how bad it is with a stick shift car.
The Sniper throttle bracket also extends OUT further from the throttle body...further than it does on any carb, so that compounds the issue since if you have a nice, pretty drop based air cleaner, then you may not clear it, if you extend the linkage...
I made a very simple, generic extension that pretty much cured the leverage lost due to the short throttle blade arm...
It's just a 3/4" extension, made from a small rectangular piece of steel. Then bolted to the Sniper throttle arm...it's never slipped, moved, hung up, or anything else negative.
It gave just enough extra leverage to make the accelerator cable feel "right" again...
I replaced the actual cable as well, which makes mine feel smoother than my daily driver.
As the pics show...there's nothing to it, and is about a 10 minute mod. It bolts to the 1/4" supplied hole in the throttle arm, then you bolt the cable stud to the extension...easy---peezy...
Thanks Bob, that helps a lot. I guess my concern was a single mount hole, possibly allowing the bracket to pivot when you don't want it to. But if it hasn't moved on you, then I guess it won't be a problem. It's too bad Holley didn't use the more traditional style throttle arm. It's a small price to pay overall with all the great benefits the Sniper has.
Trust me...I'm a sized 13EEE, 300# footbraker, and 100% try to slam the gas pedal through the floorboard on every launch...especially with a Pro Tree...It hasn't budged. With the extension bolted to the OUTSIDE of the Sniper's arm, it tries to tighten it when floored, instead of loosening it, like what would happen if the extension was on the inside of the factory arm...
I agree though...why not have it a direct swap, like ANY carb, or even the Fitech is.
I was able to use my fancy billet throttle cable bracket with the Fitech.
Now I have a 2 dollar Mr. Gasket POS bracket...LOL...
p.s. If you see the small hole, that originally had a small screw bolted through the arm...and also why the screw head is ground down. it was the prototype, lol.
That looks like the same arm they were using on the Projection units a million years ago. I wonder if that arm maybe matched the GM TBI's which they made 'upgrades' for back in the day? I made an extension for mine too. I will have to look and see if I still have pics of it. I think I used a longer bar square bar. I don't remember having any concern about it shifting.
So I got my bracket made, and modeled it after Bob's. Came out pretty good, and feels solid. I drove the car, and I am amazed how much of a difference that small extension made. No more stiff pedal, and I was able to adjust my cable so it wasn't so tight making it not only stiff, but sensitive. I also removed one of my dual return springs, and it feels like it should. Thanks once again Bob!
I used your theory on my sniper and it worked ! My 1970 blazer was scary to drive especially backing out of a parking space . Jack rabbited at every light . Thank you for the tip
I just made one today and installed exactly as pictured, same angle and everything. My throttle only opens to 80% on the Sniper and there is no room to pivot the connector any farther forward as the nut on the back bumps up against the bracket.
Anyone else have this issue?
Does anyone make one of these adjustable aluminum throttle cable brackets that fit the Sniper yet? That would solve my problem as I would be able to adjust the throttle cable....
Does the TPS reach 100% if you manually open the throttle blades, right at the throttle body?
You may have a situation like I had on my present car, which was the steel rod that the gas pedal attaches to, and that pivots on the floorboard, was slightly bent, and no matter what, was not allowing the full pedal travel....basically it was "bottoming out" on the carpet, before the throttle blade was fully open....worth a look.
Also, one of my buddy's simply had the wrong cable...it worked fine on his Holley carb, but didn't have enough pull on the EFI throttle body. I ordered him a new cable, from Rock Auto, and it had 2 attachment points for the gas pedal end of the cable.
I get to 96% when it is hooked to the standard hole. It also feels like it is fully extended. The butterflies are straight up and down.
I can check the throttle cable. This is in a 78 Camaro and it is a stock Throttle cable for a 350.
It looks to me that with that slight tip backwards of the extension I am losing some of the reach. The TPS comes to 80% and I am not getting the throttle blades fully open. That second link allows me to adjust the cable if there is one available that fits the sniper. Otherwise I guess I need a different throttle cable.
The further from the pivot point you go the more overall travel you need. There may not be enough travel available in the original cable and pedal setup. Try disconnecting the cable from the carb and measure the travel available and then compare that to how much travel you need in the various holes.
I suspect one reason us GM people have issues is the Qudrajet. The primaries were so small on those it took a lot of movement to get a response so they essentially used the 'small hole' and the travel was based on that. Going to the Holley style there is just too much response for the GM Q jet geometry so we move farther out which fixes the geometry but then gives us a travel issue. I wonder if there would be the same issues on a car that came with a 1 or 2bbl carb or if maybe those used a more typical geometry?
I solved the travel problem on my Avenger by using the adjustable bracket which let me move the throttle cable to get more or take up the slack. I think if I could find one that fit the Sniper that would solve the problem but I still need to check the whole linkage to make sure nothing is bent.
If anyone knows if there is a bracket where the cable can be adjusted please share!!
Rel3rd, was the cable you bought for a Chevelle or a generic GM cable. I have a 78 Camaro that originally had a Quadrajet but the pics of the Chevelle cable look very similar if not the same, but the length may be different....
Hi Guys, thanks for the information and pictures I have been trying for the last couple of months to find out what the cause was for my hard throttle and couldn't fine anything on Aussie forums about the problem that's now fixed and the car drives like a manual car should, I have included some pictures of what I did as I have a drop base filter and also wanted to keep my exiting aluminum cable brackets.
I’d like to add to this thread, I had this same exact issue with my Sniper EFI, the throttle was super sticky, very unsafe. I made that little bracket just that you guys said. Bam the throttle is cured and runs like it should!! Very good thread!!
I encountered the OP's issue with my newly installed Sniper and before I found this thread, I performed a google search for an extension.
Guess what? Holley is now marketing a fix to their self imposed problem.
I may have to modify my drop base air cleaner or buy a flat base.
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