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post #76 of 89 (permalink) Old Aug 22nd, 19, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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So I managed to find another Gen VI 502 block and a GM forges crank. Back in business. Now the ideas start with what parts to use.

As well I decided to purchase some purpose drag only rims. Bassett D-Hole Lightweight beadlock rims. They look pretty good. I have had problems with rims spinning inside the tires so this should fix that problem. As well they are a crap ton lighter than my old rally wheels I was using.

I need to find something to pull powder coat off, instead of the rings being black I am going to paint them bronze to match the car.
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
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post #77 of 89 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 1:43 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Well that turned out better than I was expecting.

Time to build rebuild a boosted 502!
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #78 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 19, 5:03 PM
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

What size wheels and back spacing? Looks good!

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post #79 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 19, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris27 View Post
What size wheels and back spacing? Looks good!


15x10 with 6" BS. 295 drag radial. this is with the car on jacks, it usually tucks into wheel well another 2-3"'s

1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #80 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 19, 1:26 PM
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Chris
 
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFast Beaumont View Post
15x10 with 6" BS. 295 drag radial. this is with the car on jacks, it usually tucks into wheel well another 2-3"'s

Any suspension mods that affect width? Seems most guys run 5.5" BS with a 10" wheel. Tires must be pretty close to the frame rail and inside wheel well, any rubbing? My 295's rub the wheel wells at the outside of the inner wheel well about 2" up from the fender lip if I lower the car too much. I'm currently running an 8" wheel with 4" BS. Looking to change that so I can lower the car a bit more.

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post #81 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 19, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris27 View Post
Any suspension mods that affect width? Seems most guys run 5.5" BS with a 10" wheel. Tires must be pretty close to the frame rail and inside wheel well, any rubbing? My 295's rub the wheel wells at the outside of the inner wheel well about 2" up from the fender lip if I lower the car too much. I'm currently running an 8" wheel with 4" BS. Looking to change that so I can lower the car a bit more.


yup and 5.5" puts the tire to far to the outside. 6" is perfect, 1/4' clearance on the inside and outside. no rubbing on any of the fender wells. suspension mods I have edlebrock adjustable upper control arms. These allow you to set the pinion angle and correct for a minor offset if the body is not on the frame perfectly.

1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #82 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 19, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Interesting find today. So after raceweek I was on the hunt to repair my RXT. When I bought it, it was well used. Usable but not perfect. So knowing that as well that all RXT/RST part interchange I was finding another one. With that said I found one from a Mustang GT500, part number 691807. Picked it up for $300can, it is brand new, can still see the cross hatch in the pressure and mid plate.

Left setup is a rxt1200 and right side is a rxt1000. Now anyone paying attention will notice that is not a ford flywheel, in fact it is a Chevy flywheel that it is bolted onto. Turns out it fit the 10.5” clutch pattern. SO lesson of the day for clutch guys, bring some sort of reference on your purchase when mix-matching, you could get lucky like me.

With all that said the rxt1200 pressure plate works on the newly acquired rxt1000, so I am back in business for a strong running clutch again way under the rebuild price Mcleod wants.
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #83 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 19, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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So since things are slow I thought I’d share a couple things

Brakes... so last year I upgrade the brakes from the cast iron D52 caliber to a aluminum Howe Racing D52 dual piston caliber. A lot of people are not aware of these. So they are 2x2.125 pistons, they fit right in the stock brackets, shed a ton of weight(7lbs ea), and can run larger pads (d614 I think it is).

As for the rear, the stock steel drums got pitched for some aluminum. These ones are originals but am looking at the cardone industries ones they make now. This was over 10lbs lost a side.
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #84 of 89 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 19, 11:08 PM
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Chris
 
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

Great weight savings.

1971 Chevelle SS454, T56 Magnum 6 speed, 3.31 Posi

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post #85 of 89 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 19, 3:15 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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So here we go frame reinforcing. I did this last year when I put the stick in the car. With the torque output of the 502 and clutch dumps I immediately noticed some twisting going on. I’ll be honestly most of that is probably because of the factory body mounts still in place. That said I did this before drag week so replacing them was not a option, it was easier to weld steel in my world.

So to reinforce the frame I boxed it and added 2 additional mounts. Boy am I glad I did. The difference in torsion and rigidity was drastic, most of which are from the additional frame mounts. So both frame mounts were added at the body cross members. Once completed there was enough torque if you didn’t use a body mount you could literally twist the frame. The rear one is a single mount, the middle of front one I double mounted it just because I extended it further into the Center of the car. The corner pockets at the front I overlapped onto the original frame horns.

One last thing I need to finish is where the frame bends is to bring that down a brace to the cross member, mayby this winter when I have time.

The result, I jack this up with 3 stands and mayby see 1/2” deflection on the 1 side without a jack stand. I’ll take it!
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #86 of 89 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 19, 1:42 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Rear shock rebuild/servicing. These rear QA1 shocks have been on the car for 10years now. Most likely over 10000km logged on them so I thought I should break them down and run through them. To my surprise they didn’t need it. Fluid looked great, pistons seal/ring was great, valuing disks were clean with no build up, all other seals were great, and not leaking. So a quick clean on everything and re-assembly with some new redline 5wt fluid.
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #87 of 89 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 19, 8:32 PM
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Re: Boosted Beaumont Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFast Beaumont View Post
So since things are slow I thought Iíd share a couple things

Brakes... so last year I upgrade the brakes from the cast iron D52 caliber to a aluminum Howe Racing D52 dual piston caliber. A lot of people are not aware of these. So they are 2x2.125 pistons, they fit right in the stock brackets, shed a ton of weight(7lbs ea), and can run larger pads (d614 I think it is).

As for the rear, the stock steel drums got pitched for some aluminum. These ones are originals but am looking at the cardone industries ones they make now. This was over 10lbs lost a side.
what part number and where did you get those calipers?

Marc S


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post #88 of 89 (permalink) Old Nov 3rd, 19, 5:22 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971ss454Elco View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFast Beaumont View Post
So since things are slow I thought I’d share a couple things

Brakes... so last year I upgrade the brakes from the cast iron D52 caliber to a aluminum Howe Racing D52 dual piston caliber. A lot of people are not aware of these. So they are 2x2.125 pistons, they fit right in the stock brackets, shed a ton of weight(7lbs ea), and can run larger pads (d614 I think it is).

As for the rear, the stock steel drums got pitched for some aluminum. These ones are originals but am looking at the cardone industries ones they make now. This was over 10lbs lost a side.
what part number and where did you get those calipers?
33701. Call Howe racing and they will send you a set. You can order direct from there. They don’t seem to be listed in the catalog anymore but still offer the pistons and rebuild kits so I’d image they still have them if requested. These calipers are typically used in the hobby stock racing. Be sure to order the pins as well, you will need longer ones.

1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!
GoFast Beaumont is offline  
post #89 of 89 (permalink) Old Nov 3rd, 19, 5:39 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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So changing a heater core turned in rebuilding the front end.

Well brass to aluminum heater core was another 5lbs lost. Waiting on a seal kit to put everything back together. Spectra for the win at $40 Canuck bucks.

As well thought I’d show what Howe Racing ball joints look like after +7000mi or more. I’ve had these on the car since 2007. They look great, definitely would recommend them to anyone! I will be moving over to one of there complete steering systems in the future. I should mention, these are 1/2” longer top and bottom with stock control arms, and a global west offset upper cross shaft. Drastic improvement on handling.

As well the front qa1 shocks are going to get a service while I am in here. I knocked the coil overs off for DW18 to compete in the street race class. So I went to a adjustable bucket and landrum springs. Weight wise the buckets were the only gain, I personally prefer the ride over coil overs, handles wise there was no change.

My passenger outside wheel bearing was pretty coloured, it will need to be replaced. This is expected for the speeds I have been travelling down interstates/highways, HAH!

Spindles look brand new basically. In my research on trying to go lighter on spindles.... good luck unless your willing to spend a lot of cash. AFX and L&H spindle will run a person $850+++. There was someone producing a C5 hub style spindle made of cast iron but I’d image there heavier than what I got currently. My personally Opinion is to spend elsewhere, that level of cash could yield bigger weight losses elsewhere.
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1968 Beaumont
502 big block
Stock looking, definitely not stock sounding
HP and ET not determined yet!

Last edited by GoFast Beaumont; Nov 3rd, 19 at 5:55 PM.
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