67 L99 4L80 Project - Page 5 - Chevelle Tech
Pro Touring Todays performance with classic style

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post #61 of 101 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 17, 10:11 PM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

great build! I love the 'die' idea to keep them guessing, lol... I sectioned my rear tubs to get the 295/40/20's under mine, as well as move a body mount back, but made it look factory as well... keep up the great work, love the thread...

1966 Malibu, 540 BBC FAST XFI EFI, 4L80E Trans, 2800 Stall, Quick Performance 59" 9" Ford Rear End w/3.50 gear
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post #62 of 101 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 9:40 AM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

I might have to go back in and clean mine up a bit, or at least try to. Nice job.

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post #63 of 101 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 17, 4:40 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Got the body back off of the frame and welded the inner fenders up to floor pan. Time to put it back on the rotisserie for some rust patches and welding the tunnel patch in.

Here's a shot of the engine from behind. I really like the way the hooker headers fit. They look like they will work well with the factory cross member. Also the hooker engine mounts work well for mounting the A/C compressor low.
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post #64 of 101 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 17, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

I'm in the process of installing the ABC Performance firewall smoothing kit and noticed that it looks like there's a bit of a gap where the fender bolt hole is and at the top above it.
Anyone else have this issue?
Did the fender fit ok since it looks like it would move the front fender further forward?
Also what did you fill the gap at the top with?
Any other words of wisdom for installing this
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post #65 of 101 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 17, 7:57 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Well I think I have it figured out. I had to massage the firewall a little and grind the smoothing panel a little and now it fits pretty snug. Now I need to take it back off and epoxy prime the back side and touch up the firewall before welding it in place.

For those that have done this did you weld completely across the bottom or leave some gaps so water could get out if by any chance some got in? It looks like a nice place to leave a gap would be where the outer box meets the main firewall. That way it would be pretty much hidden by the fender/inner fender.

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post #66 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 17, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Well it looks like I finally have virtually all of the rust repairs done and have moved on to smoothing the firewall and relocating the windshield wiper motor to under the LH fender. I ended up having to make the driver's side smoothing panel since the ABC Performance one doesn't cover the entire driver's side area. I also bought a repro wiper transmission and modified the linkage to reach the new wiper motor location. I held a motor in the hole, hooked a battery up to it, and tested it to make sure everything clears. Now I just need to weld the panel in and put in some rivnuts to bolt the motor/washer pump to the firewall. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the old wiper motor hole since it has a lip and I don't want it to catch water and run down between the old firewall and the new panel. I think I'm just going to grind out the bottom edge so any water it catches will just drain back into the cowl area.

Also I got stalled on what to do about the transmission tunnel. I tried one of the offset shifters but really can't see how to make that work with a factory 66/67 console. Since I don't trust my skills on making a quality (i.e. looks like it belongs there) console, I'm thinking about using a repro '68 - '72 4 speed console in it. The top plate looks like it's a little over 5" wide so I believe the bottom of the console should be about 6" or a little more just in front of the compartment. At least it's Chevelle and should look at home in my '67. If anyone has '68 - '72 console could you get me the inside width at the shifter and in front of the compartment?

For my tunnel patch I'm going to use the tin man patch but I cut out the area above the shifter so if I need to remove the shifter for whatever reason I don't have to drop the transmission. I'll make a plate to cover the hole and then a boot on top of that for the shifter. I'm planning on using a Hurst blackjack shifter but I just need to figure out which one will work with the console.
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post #67 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 17, 8:39 AM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Nice work. Firewall looks good. Could you reach in from the cowl side and seal the wiper motor hole after you have the smooth panel welded in? I would have to look to see if you could get a hand in there to do it. Tunnel came out nice. I can't figure out what I am going to do for a console yet on mine. Maybe just a leather boot on the carpet.

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post #68 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 17, 3:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan65ss View Post
Nice work. Firewall looks good. Could you reach in from the cowl side and seal the wiper motor hole after you have the smooth panel welded in? I would have to look to see if you could get a hand in there to do it. Tunnel came out nice. I can't figure out what I am going to do for a console yet on mine. Maybe just a leather boot on the carpet.
Thanks, Dan. Yes you can get to the hole but there's a pretty good gap between the recessed area in the hole for the original wiper motor and smoothing panel (i.e. about 3/8") so it would take a lot of seam sealer.

Things I've thought of so far:
1) weld a piece of sheet metal in at the back of the recessed area but that would leave a great place to hold water
2) grind out the bottom of the recessed area and seal the original firewall against the smoothing panel so that if water were to get in there it would just drain back into the cowl area.
3) leave it alone and put seam sealer in it
4) hybrid approach, grind out the bottom of the recessed area and weld a plate to the front of the area, and seam seal the plate in. I don't see alot of value in doing this verses just grinding out the bottom of the recessed area and sealing against the smoothing panel.

By the way I wish I was at the point of putting dynamat in my floors like you are. It sucks that photobucket decided to change their link policy. It sure hurt a lot of threads on a lot of sites.

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post #69 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 17, 9:04 AM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Ted,

Nice looking build, I didn't tub mine, looking at yours I think maybe I should have, those tires are HUGE!

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post #70 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 17, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Thanks, Rodger.

I actually had new inner and outer tubs in place and then a friend of mine and I were look at pictures and decided I had to have mini tubs. Then looking at the trunk pan I decided it had enough rust that a new pan was in order. At least now it's moving back forward.

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post #71 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 17, 1:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

For those looking to do the same on the wiper motor. Here's some pics with dimensions on mine. If you ended up wanting to use Newport Engineering's wiper motor with delays you'd have to get them to clock the motor different so it would clear the side of the cowl. If I go that route I'll either use the electronic ladder box or I think a company out of the UK makes a switch. I'll have to do more research.

The wiper motor sits at a 90* vertically on the long side to match the original positioning. I drilled one hole and use #8 sheet metal screw and then used a center punch to mark the next then drilled it and put a screw in and the marked/drilled the last. I plan on putting in rivnuts once the smoothing panel is welded in for the mounting holes.

For the wiper transmission extension, I cut it after the bend on the drive arm in about the center of where it was still V'd. I got a piece of 16 gauge and bent it in a vice into a V to match the wiper transmission linkage shape and welded it in (after cleaning off the cad coating where the welds would be). I had to extend the arm 11 1/2".

All together I have about $5 in sheet metal for the smoothing panel and the linkage extension. I did buy a new repro wiper transmission rather than cutting the original which was about $100 off of epay.
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Last edited by rpol78; Oct 11th, 17 at 2:44 PM.
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post #72 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 17, 2:49 PM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Very cool mod. I like this!

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post #73 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 17, 6:27 PM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Great build, looking good!

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post #74 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 17, 3:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

A couple of things I'd like to have in the Chevelle is a cup holder and a stereo with navigation. Originally I was thinking about doing these in a console but now I'm thinking I may be able to incorporate them in the dash. I saw one post quite a while back where someone had modified the dash to allow for a double din radio where the original radio was so I've played a little with going down that path for the radio/navigation.

Now to the cup holder, today I picked up a cup holder out of a 2004 Ford F150 and it looks like it may work. I'll need to fabricate the mounting so it's flush with the front of the dash and do some trimming on it to eliminate some of the tabs. It looks like the slant and curve are pretty close to the chevelle dash. I think I can heat it and get the face plate curve to flatten a little to match the chevelle since if i push down just a little it matches the curve. I'll need to widen the opening and probably fill the existing ash tray opening. Assuming I go this route, my plan would be to put an electronic control for the vintage air above it, either VA's or Dakota Digital's. So far I have $6.25 in this experiment.
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post #75 of 101 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 17, 4:28 PM
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Re: 67 L99 4L80 Project

Make sure the Vintage air box will still fit in there with that sticking back so far. I like your idea, but might run out of room back there with a double din radio and that cup holder and the ac box and the hoses going everyone. I will take a look back through your thread, but without looking, you need to account for the ECU somewhere too.

I am scratching my head on all those things this week.

And one more thing, if you go with the electronic controller for the AC, you will have a little more than 6 dollars into it...man those little buggers are expensive!

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