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Roadster shop spec series chassis.

11K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  fastlane666 
#1 ·
Hey guys, it’s been a while since I’ve been in here, I’m also a member of the team FB page. Anyways, I’ve been tinkering with my 66 300 since roughly 1987 when I was 14 and paid 200 bucks for it. My current setup is like this. Lunati 408 SBC with the edelbrock performer RPM top end and lunati cam. Tremec TKO 600. JGC steering box, SSBC brakes, umi suspension upgrades as well as a 3:55 12 bolt posi. I’ve been running the 408 since 1995 when hot rod magazine ran the same engine in the crusher Camaro. I’ve acquired everything to finally upgrade to a LS1, I have a pro charger D1SC kit, fast computer, injectors rails Holley sheet metal intake and throttle body. Etc, I’ve spent some money here. The original chassis in my car has been bent and repaired, I’ve fought with the drive line angle issue, I’ve cracked the rear suspension crossmember drag racing on drag radials and fixed it and gusseted the cracks.
Ok here’s what I’m trying to get to, The Roadster Shop spec chassis, a well equipped chassis can be bought for roughly 15k from Summit with free shipping. It’s purpose built, the driveline angles are correct, and since I’m running about 650-700 horsepower I see it as a no brainer. Who else has done the chassis upgrade? What hiccups did you hit, the spec chassis is advertised as bolt in.
 
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#2 ·
I don't have personal experience with them, but I would almost guarantee it's not a simple swap. I would go into it assuming that it will be at least another 7-10 thousand to finish the setup the way you want. They look awesome, but are definitely a bit out of my price range right now.

You might have better luck finding someone who uses them on the Pro-touring forums. That is a modification that is a bit more their speed. Good luck!

Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
I like it. I am sure you are going to have some issues with it being a perfect fit, yours is twisted and rewelded and bent, this is going to be straight...but that seems like a decent price. I add up my rear end, my suspension and my frame boxing kit and I am over half of what you are talking.

A quick look at their site and I upgraded the one I would want up to 18k pretty quickly. Guess it depends on how much stuff you are going to swap over from the old chassis to the new one (brakes) and I also upgraded the coilovers as the base models didn't seem to be up to my level for what the rest of the chassis would end up being.

You should probably call a couple other chassis places like Art Morrison or Roth Speed to compare what they have to offer as well.

If I was doing it over again, I would do the full chassis. It was fun for me to box and narrow and weld, cause I was enjoying it, but I have way too much time and money invested into a weak chassis at this point.
 
#4 ·
While I disagree with 7-10k cost to install, I will say there are additional expenses. I'm not sure what your 15k include with the price from Summit. I've looked at the SPEC chassis and its their entry level offering for those of us that cannot afford to buy the 20k chassis. When I called them, I was told bolt on meaning you should not have to cut the floor around the trunk area as you would with the Fast Track. I was told you might be able to make the stock tank work, but a narrowed tank works best (? $1200). You will have to buy their stainless lines($800) or build your own as no pre-bent lines for Chevelle will work. You will have to use brakes that work for Wilwood spindle, not sure if anyone makes a bracket for SSBC. You would also need use Holley($900) or Ultimate headers($1200) of you want to use a long tube. If you're going to use mids you could still go with either brand.
I quoted my chassis as 13,800 with dbl adjustable coilovers, front sway bar, brake lines and LS mounts. The only thing I wouldn't know would be your powder coating for the frame and components, my guys would charge me @$800 and $200 of that is the frame blasting cost.

I forgot you will need a custom made steering shaft to connect to the rack and pinion, but you will have to buy the parts to make it yourself(?$300).
 
#5 ·
Figure on a 4-5 month wait, at least.

Still waiting on mine for my Nomad.

And half the total up front.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I bought a Schwartz chassis because all I need to do is mini tub it and do a little tunnel work for the TKO 600 and the body lays right on. I waited about 4 months and still have my work cut out for me with fuel, cooling, wiring, ect, and I am hoping to be running by end of the year, but that appears to be a tad ambitious... I think they did a really nice job, extremely square, fit and finish is well done, my regret is I didn't have them do more.
The Roadster Shop setup needs more extensive work to the floors, which I didn't want to do as my body is pretty mint. Price wise, they are very close when you compare apples to apples.
 

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#9 ·
I bought an early bare Schwartz chassis. It came with shocks/springs, spindles, rack and floater rear end. It seems they now have most of the kinks worked out, but nothing was correct on the chassis and it didn't fit on my car. I had to redo all the front suspension and cut the back half off so it would fit my car and the front and rear bumper brackets were non-existent. I had to redo all of the shock mounts, too. Their customer service wasn't the greatest, either.

Like I said, I think they have most of the problems worked out. I started with a rust free Calif car, so my frame was in very nice condition. I sold it complete with disc brakes, booster, rear end, fuel tank steering box, wheels and tires for $3700.

I didn't alter the body whatsoever and I even got the inner fenders to fit without modifications.

I think I have about 3K in the Wilwood brakes - 6 piston up front and 4 piston in the rear. Ricks tank was $900. The brake and fuel lines aren't really all the difficult and those were less than $500. Driveshaft was @250, Ididit column was $400 (I think) new shaft and "U" joints were about $150ish. Home made Headers, exhaust, trans cross member was $2500. There isn't a real good place for the mufflers, so the guy had to cut my Flowmasters up and make them fit in front of the rear axle. None of my exhaust hangs below the frame. I have $3200 in wheels and about 1K in tires...

I did 90% of the work fixing the frame and suspension. I have about $200 in tubing for the frame, probably $500 in front suspension parts to make the car work correctly. Once again, I think they probably have most of this worked out, but they weren't very helpful to me.

Now, a lot of cost is depending on what you want to do for an engine and trans. I bought a Blueprint 383 engine and built an Autogear M23. I also have an aluminum 3:70 centersection with a gleason drive in it.

If you click the link in my signature, you can see how I started and how it ended.

grr
 
#10 ·
Update, I bought a spec chassis from The Roadster Shop and it arrived in 10 weeks! SSBC told me initially that I could reuse my brakes and just buy brackets, then when I called the to order the brackets the told me they wouldn't work. I'm going with wilwood now. The chassis is beautiful! Quality throughout, the welds are a work of art. I bought a set of Ultimate Headers stainless long tubes as well and a Holley 320-2 pan and sniper intake. I actually think that it will be 7-10 k to get it all together as my business keeps me from doing all the work myself. Now I need to also focus on selling my old stuff that I don't need and I don't have the room to store.
 
#11 ·
I got the Revo chassis and we're VERY pleased with the quality and fitment.

Post some pictures when you can :thumbsup:
 
#12 ·
I wish you the BEST of luck with your build. I've researched, researched & still SEARCHING what to do about my frame. I've been in the Collision Industry for over 38 years so I'm MORE than familiar with dealing with frames, swapping them out and at for years doing extensive mods on them when I was working in a Street Rod shop & working from home for myself & other people. I started off with the plan that I wanted to box my frame, coil overs, tubular control arms, big disc brakes, & either a 9" or 12 bolt & possibly mini tubbing the wagon. I've spent hours upon hours on the internet & making calls to various quote Custom Frame builders. I can of course do all the required work myself but once I really started adding everything up it almost seems like I would better off buying a frame already built to my specs, then just selling my original frame. I'm not sure if any of you guys have seen on eBay but you may want to check out Jim's Chevelle Alley. I've spoke with Jim at GREAT length and still need to get some things clarified but he's basically quoted me a roller for 14500.00 with a factory that they box frame, QA1 Coil overs and QA1 Tubular control arms, 4 wheel disc brakes from Great Stuff with master cylinder,brake & fuel lines, & 12 bolt posi, my choice of wheel from his vendor, the one thing I need to get clarified is if that price includes the ABC frame narrowing kit installed. The 2nd conversation that I had with him, he actually suggested narrowing the frame more than one the ABC kit allows. So STILL, time for more research but, AT LEAST you know it's going to bolt up other than what ever type of tubbing or mini tubbing I'll need to do.
Again, THE VERY BEST OF LUCK with your build
 
#13 ·
Well, things are progressing nicely. The chassis is back from powder coat, and assembled as a roller. I also smoothed the firewall and it’s now in primer.
 

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#14 ·
And a few more pictures
 

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#15 ·
I’ve decided to also completely retire the car with an American auto wire kit and add vintage air as well.
 
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