Total power loss - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 7:56 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hutto, Tx.
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Total power loss

Hi all. Dropped a fresh 350 in my 70 Malibu and ran her around the block about a dozen times this weekend. Right before I was going to retire for the day, I thought I would start her up just to hear those open headers (and share with the neighborhood) one more time, just so I would sleep better. Well that did not happen, there is a total power loss. Nothing is working and the battery has a full charge. The car was running flawlessly and now......nothing, not even a dome light! Any ideas or suggestions of where to start looking?

The other issue I was having is that my fuel gauge was pegged on full and I know for a fact that there is only 5 gallons in the tank because that is all I put in there. Also the when you opened the door, the buzzer would go off without the key being in the ignition. I did not change anything but added an MSD ignition/distributor system.

Is it possible to have the wires swapped on the starter solenoid? I was unsure which color wire went where, the terminals were different from the original starter being this is a late model 350 (1989 I believe). Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 8:11 AM
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Jason
 
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Re: Total power loss

Test battery voltage and make sure it's at least showing 12v. Then test jumper wire for + on radiator support, just next to battery. This is a fusible link from positive cable to a stud mounted on radiator support. Test before and after this point to make sure it's not bad.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 9:03 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Total power loss

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownchevelle68 View Post
Test battery voltage and make sure it's at least showing 12v. Then test jumper wire for + on radiator support, just next to battery. This is a fusible link from positive cable to a stud mounted on radiator support. Test before and after this point to make sure it's not bad.
The battery was showing 12.54 volts. I did not know that was a fusible link in between on the radiator support.

I have come to realization that I am running a 4 pin alternator vs the two pin that originally came in the car. If memory serves me correctly, does the newer alternator have a built in regulator? If so I assume I compromising the external voltage regulator. Would that be an issue? I am assuming so. What I would like to do is find the old 2 pin alternator at the 105 amp rating as my newer one that has the newer bolt pattern.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 9:32 AM
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Jason
 
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Re: Total power loss




Check out http://www.madelectrical.com/ as they have alot of info on their site.

With that voltage you should have lights at the very least. That still leads me to believe a fusible link is out ..
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 11:09 AM
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Gene
 
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Re: Total power loss

Simple stuff first, check both bat cables, ensure you ddnt fry one on your shakedown run and double check batt connection.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Total power loss

Awesome! Thanks guys, I will look into this and let you know what I find. It may be a few days, my dad is having hip surgery tomorrow and I am going to have to help him out through the week, but will check those things out as soon as I can. Appreciate the information.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 13, 11:30 AM
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Greg
 
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Re: Total power loss

for testing purposes - bypass the MSD

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 13, 6:32 PM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Total power loss

Well today has been a long day and to top it off I feel a little like an idiot. I had a few moments today so I thought I would investigate the power loss issue following all the advice given on this topic. I started by removing the battery and BAM......there it was. The thick red wire that goes from the battery to the radiator support had slipped out of the battery terminal connection!

Just an FYI, my 70 Chevelle is an all original car up until this motor swap, and that particular wire is not a fusible link. I think I am going to make it one so is there a recommendation of what size fuse that should be?

I have also changed over from the original 50 amp two pin alternator to a more modern 105 amp four pin style. I am not sure I have this connected correctly, but from all the information I gathered from the internet I am thinking it is correct but the "gen" light is bright when the key is turned to ignition, but glows dimly when running. Has anyone made this change before and can maybe reassure me that what I have done is correct? Just not a big electrical tech when it comes to cars.
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