Engine mount suggestions? - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 5:07 PM Thread Starter
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Tyler
 
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Engine mount suggestions?

So I just pulled to motor out and the passenger side mount is junk. Anyone have a suggestion on mounts that are tough or is an OEM style as good as anything? The previous owner had the old chain welded to the frame bolted to the head thing going on and that is gonna take a hike.........but perhaps I see why he did it.........kinda.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 5:11 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chebell View Post
So I just pulled to motor out and the passenger side mount is junk. Anyone have a suggestion on mounts that are tough or is an OEM style as good as anything? The previous owner had the old chain welded to the frame bolted to the head thing going on and that is gonna take a hike.........but perhaps I see why he did it.........kinda.
what year ???
67 0R 68 or ???
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 5:19 PM Thread Starter
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Tyler
 
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Sorry, that would help I’m sure! It is a 68 with a small block.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 7:09 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

OK, think about this. The engine torques UP on the driver side, and the chassis torques all over the place, twists, moves.

So, in the past, Chevrolet devised a cable that went around the driver side exhaust manifold and the left side upper A Arm shaft, to counteract the torque. Later engine moounts were designed to have a fail safe device built into them to keep the engine from torquing up all the way when, NOT IF, the driver side mount broke the rubber away frm the metal of the mount.

Then, along comes drag racers, and they devised all solid mounts, engine and transmission. This caused all sorts of disaster, mount bosses ripped out of blocks, chassis torn apart, lots of bad stuff.

So, if you want to keep the engine in place, and let the chassis move, without tearing stuff up, what do to?

Well, it takes one solid metal engine mount, one polyester engine mount, and one rubber transmission mount.

Use the steel solid mount on the driver side, the poly engine mount on the pass side, and the rubber transmission mount on the trans. This keeps the engine from torquing up on the driver side, allows the chassis to twitch and deform, and the transmission to move on the cross member, without fighting each other when everything moves all over the place.

It works on everything I ever used the stuff on.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 8:00 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

After reading from many sites that you really can't buy good rubber mounts anymore I looked elsewhere. Remember back in those days GM used to chain them down on the drivers side. I went with a full poly kit I think from Jegs or Summit. Make sure you change the tranny mount too. Seems fine with my 68 L79 with minimum if any extra vibration.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 8:44 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chebell View Post
So I just pulled to motor out and the passenger side mount is junk. Anyone have a suggestion on mounts that are tough or is an OEM style as good as anything? The previous owner had the old chain welded to the frame bolted to the head thing going on and that is gonna take a hike.........but perhaps I see why he did it.........kinda.
Listen to what Dave said

I would also keep the Chain
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 8:56 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

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Originally Posted by Kirk's67SS View Post
Listen to what Dave said

I would also keep the Chain
I read a lot of post saying that if the tranny can move with rubber while the block doesn't it can actually crack the bellhousing. I am only going with what I read from many sites plus considering it's a small block like mine I do not see any benefit mismatching the mounts. Again I am only going from what I have read and from how my 327 seems to be doing without a chain or cable but with full poly. Now maybe a 540 would need that IMO.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 9:00 PM Thread Starter
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Great suggestions guys, thank you!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 9:37 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

I recently researched this same subject as I currently have my engine out of my 69. For years I have ran two solid engine mounts and a rubber trans mount with no problems.
I read quite a few responces that recommended a solid mount on the drivers side and a rubber mount on the passenger side. No good?
I was planning on using the mount below on the engine on the passenger side.



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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 9:51 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

I've had good luck with Lakewood Muscle Mounts.

https://www.holley.com/products/engi...ts/parts/24087
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 10:03 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

Are there any negative issues with running all poly that I am not aware of? I don't drag the car and they seem to work fine, at least for my application.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 10:11 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony65 View Post
I've had good luck with Lakewood Muscle Mounts.

https://www.holley.com/products/engi...ts/parts/24087
Tony,
That looks like the exact same mount in my post except the one from Westar is 1/4 the price of the holley mount. My guess is it is the exact same mount.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 11:04 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blm View Post
Tony,
That looks like the exact same mount in my post except the one from Westar is 1/4 the price of the holley mount. My guess is it is the exact same mount.
In my opinion they don't look the exact same, and if not exactly the same; prolly different versions of the same design.
Look closely and you will see the subtle differences.

Not saying one is better than the other, just an observation.


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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 20, 11:17 PM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

David you are right. As i look at hem closer I noticed subtle differences.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 20, 12:42 AM
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Re: Engine mount suggestions?

One thing you need to remember is what happened back when those 60's motor mounts were failing in the early 70's.The early cars with a mechanical linkage from the gas pedal to the carb would go to full throttle when the early engines would torque up after drivers side motor mount failed.That caused many accidents and unintended acceleration.
Then the recalls started but did they replace the motor mounts ???
Later Chevy's made after 1968 had a motor mount with a safety interlocking piece or latch that only allowed a small amount of movement after the MM rubber would fail and then separate allowing the engine to rise up about only an 1/2 inch or so. Plus those newer Chevy's (and B-O-P's too) had throttle cables not steel linkages,more safety from the factory.
So what to do about all those millions of Chevy's V8's already produced and sold with the defective MM's.Just replace the mounts with the later safety strap motor mounts ? No way that would cost way too much.No, they came out with a cable and bracket piece that would catch the engine when the motor mount failed and not allow the engine to torque over and jump up when the MM failed.
The cable didn't actually hold the engine (not unless the MM rubber had ripped apart) it was just looped around the heaviest part of the frame near the motor mount to catch the engine should the MM fail in the future.Remember Chevrolet sold a million cars in just the full size Chevy B-body line alone in 1965.
Replacing ALL the motor mounts in the Chevy's built between 1958 (IIRC)and 1968 would have cost a fortune.No,the cable and brackets was the quick fix and it worked.And more than likely the hot rodders and drag racers with their chain limiters gave the engineers that idea.
Somewhere in my box of leftover parts I still have a set of the recall bracket and cables,I found them in the trunk of my 1965 Impala 283.
Bottom line,the recall cable's didn't actually hold the engine and the hot rodders chain doesn't hold the engine either, they just limit the engine's movement.

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