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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 20, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Dennis
 
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Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

I’m for a sound system for my 66.
My questions are about the wattage output of the head unit vs ratings of the speakers.

Should I try and match them as close as possible, ie, 50 watt output/50 watt speakers?
Would it hurt if the speakers were rated higher? Could the speakers get to a point of being under powered?

Any other specs I should pay particular attention to?

Secondly, has anyone ever used an under seat speaker? Like the attached pic.

Where else have you put speakers in your cars?

Are “component” speaker systems with the money/effort?
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66 Chevelle hardtop - LFX 3.6 liter 4 Cam V6/6L50 6 speed auto trans, 3.07 10 bolt, full Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood 4 wheel discs, white with red interior, cowl hood.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 20, 12:15 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

I use inexpensive name brand 2 way speakers matched to the impedance and power output of the amp or head unit they are connected to. I'm not fond of subwoofers.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 20, 9:47 PM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

I like Kicker speakers, good sound for a decent, but not cheap, price. Get the best model that you can afford. They'll sound good with just the radio's built in amp, or you can hit them with added power and they'll take it.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 20, 12:04 AM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

The speaker rating needs to be equal or higher than the amp rating. Match the impedance (ohms). I like Polk audio. Have also used Boston Acoustics. Bose and Infinity are good, and used by OEMs in their premium systems as well.

My own system in my 67 consists of 6x9 triaxial units in the rear shelf driven and tweeters where the original AM speaker went, all driven from the head unit. The stereo separation in front is non existent but it's an easy location. You can buy a kit but I made me own. I have 5 inch speakers up front, basically a front door or kick panel speaker driven from the amp. And a small sub also driven from the amp. All Polk stuff, except the head unit is a Retro (not great but fits and works okay).

Zeke

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 20, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke67 View Post
The speaker rating needs to be equal or higher than the amp rating. Match the impedance (ohms)...
The unit I’m buying is 45 watts per channel, 180 watts total. So I’ll but speakers rated for at least 45 watts each. Probably 50-60 amps as 45 isnt a normal rating.

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to going to speakers rated for 100 amps? 200 amps?

Can a speaker be “under powered” by a radio to the point that it doesn’t sound good?

66 Chevelle hardtop - LFX 3.6 liter 4 Cam V6/6L50 6 speed auto trans, 3.07 10 bolt, full Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood 4 wheel discs, white with red interior, cowl hood.

Last edited by davewho1; Feb 1st, 20 at 12:01 AM. Reason: fixed quote
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 20, 11:26 AM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

The key to a great sound system is quality. You want a head unit that puts out a clean signal, pay ZERO attention to the watts listed on the marketing materials. Components are definitely the way to go for sound quality. The more clean power from the head unit the better, 14 watts clean is way better than 50 watts distorted. Distortion is what kills speakers, not power. The speaker wattage is not as important as some people believe. Consider that most concert stage amp/speakers are 100watt cabinets.
The system I have in my chevelle consists of the following and I have under $1,000 total in it.

Pioneer DEH-80PRS $350ish (arguably the second best head unit available right below the 99PRS which runs about $1,300) The max volume is 62 and there is zero distortion all the way up to 60 on the dial. I run it in active (network) crossover mode. It has a built in Digital Signal Processor.
1 ea Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 500w Class D Mono subwoofer amp
1 ea Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 Subwoofer 250w RMS Mounted in a sealed box in the rear speaker package tray. (You can mount your sub anywhere you want, bass is non directional)
1 ea Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D 400 Watt 4 Channel Amp (2 front channels to the 1" tweeters, 2 rear channels to the 6.5 mids)
1 set Rockford Fosgate R165-S 6.5" components. All mounted in the factory kick panels.

NO REAR SPEAKERS!!!!! You do not need rear speakers for great sound quality. Music is recorded in stereo (NOT SURROUND SOUND). When did you ever go to a live concert and have speakers behind you?

Just my $.02
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Last edited by Bart_Swisher; Jan 31st, 20 at 11:46 AM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 20, 12:27 PM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

[quote=67_LS1;11223240]
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke67 View Post
The speaker rating needs to be equal or higher than the amp rating. Match the impedance (ohms).

The unit I’m buying is 45 watts per channel, 180 watts total. So I’ll but speakers rated for at least 45 watts each. Probably 50-60 amps as 45 isnt a normal rating.

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to going to speakers rated for 100 amps? 200 amps?

Can a speaker be “under powered” by a radio to the point that it doesn’t sound good?
As to your question about radio power vs speaker rating.. think of it this way.. Which is better, a small block trying to pull a 5,000lb trailer or a big block pulling a 200lb yard cart. You want more power on tap than you plan on using, My system puts out about 1000 watts and my speakers are rated at 40 watts RMS. I can turn it full volume, extremely loud but clear as a bell. When you close your eyes you can visually see in your head exactly where each band member was in the studio when it was recorded. On a live recording you can actually tell when the lead singer is moving around on the stage.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 20, 9:16 PM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

I am agreeing with Bart, (mostly, I wouldn't pay ZERO attention. Watts are like HP, it's what sells so it has a relevance to what you are paying for.). So hopefully, this build on his comments while answering some of your questions.

There is a certain amount of hype on speaker Watts, and amp Watts; RMS and peak have technical definitions but there is a certain amount of marketing around this. My Polk recommendation is simply what I use and fairly affordable. Fosgate is probably a notch or two higher, at least.

Yes, you can have an amp with more power than speakers and be fine. Impedance is really the thing that matches what the amp delivers to what the speaker can take. Bart is right, it's true the cleaner the signal the better. But a great amp with an over driven input can distort anyway. Modern high quality stuff has protection circuits (auto gain control, or a feedback loop). Matching brands is going to help a lot because presumably this stuff is designed to work together and they avoid warranty issues and general customer complaints.

Keeping the speakers rated higher gives some safety margin, especially with mid to lower end stuff. A high power amp can "blow" a low power speaker by overheating the coil and shorting it out (never seen it) or by overcoming what the acoustic suspension can handle. The latter is what we typically think of as a blown speaker. The former would likely take sustained high power operation -- heating. The later like more to do with the signal quality and volume (significant bass, distortion) that move the cone significantly. And probable helped by fatigue over time. Keeping the volume down makes all of this unlikely.

It's unlikely you would notice a difference with a higher power rated speaker, like the 100 W you asked about. I wouldn't be a bit worried about 100 W speakers with your 45 W unit. It's typically one speaker unit per channel that you are comparing. A mismatch is not going to be a problem unless you have a really low power head unit and the big speaker, something like a woofer that has big mass. It would work, but you would need to turn the volume up more. And maybe not much more. This assumes your really low power radio would actually sound good, which it probably wouldn't all other things considered.

Bart is right, you don't need rear speakers (even though he does have one ). 6x9's package well and being in the package tray they benefit from the space in the trunk for low end bass. You don't need them with a sub in a cabinet or a sub in the package tray. You may want them if you don't. A better place for rear speakers is in the door so they aren't blasting behind the head of a rear seat passenger. This is how the OEMs do it; a sub in the rear tray and a rear door speaker. This is hard in a two door, no door and putting them above the armrest is is the way of the glass. The reason mine are powered by the head unit, is that the amp that drives my front speakers is set up so that the fronts are louder than the rears at a given setting on the dial.

Zeke

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 20, 8:15 AM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

Frankly these cars are so noisy that I wouldn't go to far in sound equipment. I use a woofer and a 5 way 6x9 and use mono.. It sounds nice.. I use the factory AM radio as a head unit. I soldered two 1K resisters to the blue wire that goes to the radios volumn control and then run the left and right leads to the resisters from a male patch cord with a male mini jack. I plug my I Pod into that.
Then I have a Blaupunkt amp connected to the radios speaker terminal at the high side. Then a 8" wolfer and a 6x9 five way speaker.. It sounds real nice. I also have a switch to change the radio back to AM since we have some decent oldies stations here..

Hope I gave you some ideas, good luck. The best sound comes from the pipes anyhow..





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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 20, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by hydro462 View Post
Frankly these cars are so noisy that I wouldn't go to far in sound equipment...
My car isn’t super loud but I get what your saying. I just want a good speaker system and I’d prefer to not see it.

I bought a Bluetooth amp so my only source will be my cell phone. Spotify or streaming specific stations.

I really like the idea of under seat speakers since they don’t show but was concerned because the Bluetooth amp only puts our 45 watts per channel and the under seat speakers I’m leaning towards are rated for 120 watts. This sounds like it’s not an issue.

The Bluetooth amp also has a pre-amp input so I could add an amp if desired down the road.

I also like the idea of going mono. I have a single Bluetooth speaker in my shop (1500sf) and it sounds incredible. I stream from my phone and it’s louder than I could ever want, has great sound quality and self connects each time I arrive.

66 Chevelle hardtop - LFX 3.6 liter 4 Cam V6/6L50 6 speed auto trans, 3.07 10 bolt, full Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood 4 wheel discs, white with red interior, cowl hood.

Last edited by davewho1; Feb 1st, 20 at 12:55 PM. Reason: fixed quote
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 2nd, 20, 6:10 AM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

Two 6 x 9's in the rear deck (Personally, I like the Alpine Ty -R). Dual voice coil center dash speaker and mount two tweeters high up on the kick panels to provide some imaging. Driven by a 4 channel amp, nothing fancy, I used RF 300x4 mounted in the trunk in the Chevelle. My '15 Silverado, we installed an Alpine Compact Amp, very low amperage draw and more than enough power to produce good clean volume. At the time they only had the 445U, they now have a slightly larger 450 unit, may not seem like an increase over the advertised wattage output built into a head unit, but using an external amp is significantly different. These compact amps won't require much if any electrical system upgrades which is a big consideration if you decide to get a larger amp and especially a subwoofer install, the external regulator alternators don't function well the way a subwoofer hits.

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Did the subwoofer in the trunk deal, car rattled too much (chrome trim), even sound deadened the trunk lid with spray foam which helped a lot but didn't eliminate it. If you really want more bass, I'd just use one of the compact removable powered subs and set it on the footwell in the rear seat.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 2nd, 20, 7:33 AM
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Re: Audiophiles, speaker suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67_LS1 View Post

I also like the idea of going mono. I have a single Bluetooth speaker in my shop (1500sf) and it sounds incredible. I stream from my phone and it’s louder than I could ever want, has great sound quality and self connects each time I arrive.
I used to think I had to have stereo until this present set up. I was just checking it in mono and was shocked at how well it sounded. Then I though why bother with stereo if you cant really notice it.. All though groups like Grand Funk, Pink Floyd, Rose Royce and The Who do a lot with stereo they still sound great in High Fidelity..
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