Re: Engine install
I'm the amatuer here, to be sure, and I stabbed them in as a unit last fall. It allowed me to really dial in the clutch and bellhousing on the floor. The cheap Summit tilter cant handle a iron headed rat with M23Z attached, so I simply put some tilt into the hang via the chains ( I always use the big holes on the end of the heads to lift rats), maybe 30 degrees, and laid her home. This will require setting the output of the transmission on a rolling floor jack. As the engine goes into place, so does the rear of the transmission need to be lifted up to get rid of the 30 degree angle to 3.
Blankets on the core support too, as the pan will want to rub it. I do this with no transmission crossmember installed. Once the engine is secure with bolts, I re-position the floor jack to the trans belly and put the crossmember in. Hope that all makes sense.
I used to do it the way Bruce says, but with the car on jack stands ( to clear the transmission on a trans jack) and a not-so tall garage ceiling, it isnt easy to get the engine high enough. The cheap HF $99 trans jack does make lining up the input and clutch disc/ pilot relatively easy though. I'll still do it as a unit on the way in. On the way out, its easier to unbolt the bell imho, and yank the trans forward and out later.
1967 with fatass beavertail crossmember ( which makes it harder, it has to go straight down almost at the end. ) , and only hood removed. ALTHOUGH I bet I could now do it with hood in place.
A second set of eyes and arms is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Although you can do it by moving the jack rams really incrementally and running back and forth. BTDT. Much easier with helper!
HOWEVER< if your transmission is still in the car, you might lower the engine in, run the engine mount bolts in, and then get the trans up on a jack and carefully install it. Again, this is usually done with the car up on stands for better clearance underneath to line up and install the trans.
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Last edited by 427L88; Jan 24th, 20 at 11:33 AM.