Engine install - Chevelle Tech
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Old Jan 23rd, 20, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
Nelson
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: so calif
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Is it hard to install engine with transmission in car ,or do i need to pull transmission and install them both together ,72 chevelle thanks in advance
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Old Jan 23rd, 20, 11:02 PM
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Bruce
 
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Re: Engine install

It depends on your level of experience, your equipment situation, and how many helpers you have. I'd rather install the Engine/Transmission into the car when the front clip is off. My second choice is installing the engine with the trans in the car, but I prefer the car to be up on jack stands to facilitate the tranny hook up. So you need a high ceiling and a ceiling-mounted hoist. Not to mention a trans jack.

My third choice is to install the engine/tranny as a unit -- which is the way I do it most of the time due to equipment limitations. Get some moving blankets to cover the fenders and the header panel. There is a 99% chance the oil pan or the engine hoist will contact the Header Panel, so protect it. Headers: lay them in the engine compartment before putting the engine/tranny in.

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Old Jan 23rd, 20, 11:05 PM
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Brad
 
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Re: Engine install

I'm sure it is possible to install an engine with the trans in.place but much harder. Remove the trans and install with either the engine and trans joined together or install just the engine and install the trans to the engine afterwards. There is more potential for damage when the trans is attached as it is much bulkier. I prefer to install the trans after the engine is installed and even when installing engine I prefer to remove most accessories such as power steering pump, water pump, alternator, distributor and even the radiator.
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Old Jan 23rd, 20, 11:08 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Engine install

Its not hard to install the engine in the car with the trans already in it. Its all about getting things to line up square with no binding. While it can be done by yourself, its a lot easier with an extra body. Its also easier with the car on jack stands so you can work above and below.

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Old Jan 23rd, 20, 11:16 PM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Engine install

I installed my engine about a year an a half ago. Without the tranny attached. it was easy.

Get your motor mounts lined up first and slide the bolts in.
Helps to have another set of hands to help line up each side.

I removed the tranny cross member bolts so you can manipulate the tranny any way you need to so you can line up the dowels to the engine.

PS. watch your distributor when lowering engine. remove the cap because it will be very close to the firewall.
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 8:23 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Engine install

I prefer to install engine and trans as a unit. That way you're not laying under the car trying to lift a heavy trans up to the engine and then installing trans-to-engine bolts. And if it's an automatic trans, you've got torque converter pump and flywheel bolts, which are a pain when laying on your back. Much easier to assemble when the engine and trans are still out of the car.

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Old Jan 24th, 20, 10:59 AM
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Bart
 
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Re: Engine install

Quote:
Originally Posted by augy View Post
I prefer to install engine and trans as a unit. That way you're not laying under the car trying to lift a heavy trans up to the engine and then installing trans-to-engine bolts. And if it's an automatic trans, you've got torque converter pump and flywheel bolts, which are a pain when laying on your back. Much easier to assemble when the engine and trans are still out of the car.

JMHO.....
Same here, I have always preferred to install as a unit. With the front clip removed it's a piece of cake and can literally be dropped in and bolted down in about 15 minutes.
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 11:15 AM
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Gene
 
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Re: Engine install

I'm the amatuer here, to be sure, and I stabbed them in as a unit last fall. It allowed me to really dial in the clutch and bellhousing on the floor. The cheap Summit tilter cant handle a iron headed rat with M23Z attached, so I simply put some tilt into the hang via the chains ( I always use the big holes on the end of the heads to lift rats), maybe 30 degrees, and laid her home. This will require setting the output of the transmission on a rolling floor jack. As the engine goes into place, so does the rear of the transmission need to be lifted up to get rid of the 30 degree angle to 3.
Blankets on the core support too, as the pan will want to rub it. I do this with no transmission crossmember installed. Once the engine is secure with bolts, I re-position the floor jack to the trans belly and put the crossmember in. Hope that all makes sense.

I used to do it the way Bruce says, but with the car on jack stands ( to clear the transmission on a trans jack) and a not-so tall garage ceiling, it isnt easy to get the engine high enough. The cheap HF $99 trans jack does make lining up the input and clutch disc/ pilot relatively easy though. I'll still do it as a unit on the way in. On the way out, its easier to unbolt the bell imho, and yank the trans forward and out later.


1967 with fatass beavertail crossmember ( which makes it harder, it has to go straight down almost at the end. ) , and only hood removed. ALTHOUGH I bet I could now do it with hood in place.

A second set of eyes and arms is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Although you can do it by moving the jack rams really incrementally and running back and forth. BTDT. Much easier with helper!

HOWEVER< if your transmission is still in the car, you might lower the engine in, run the engine mount bolts in, and then get the trans up on a jack and carefully install it. Again, this is usually done with the car up on stands for better clearance underneath to line up and install the trans.
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Last edited by 427L88; Jan 24th, 20 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 11:21 AM
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Dennis
 
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Re: Engine install

Iíve always installed the engine and trans as a unit. With a tilter on the hoist its easy.
But I always try to have second set of hands too. Itís just safer and easier.

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Old Jan 24th, 20, 12:40 PM
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Re: Engine install

I have done it both ways many many times, but I prefer to install the engine by itself, which is especially easy with a manual. (hint, screw guide studs in the bell housing to guide the tranny in). A Chevelle engine compartment is not too bad, but on many cars, putting them in as a unit is a real PITA. I like to be able to just set the engine straight down into the mounts and I can put the engine in with more stuff bolted to it too. The fact that I used to work in a transmission shop may also explain why bolting the tranny up separately never seemed like that big of deal to me. If you are going to install an automatic separately, I would recommend one of those Harbor Freight style tranny jacks adapters for your floor jack. They are not spectacular, but they will get the job done, and it's safer that way too.
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 3:23 PM
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Brad
 
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Re: Engine install

Quote:
Originally Posted by augy View Post
I prefer to install engine and trans as a unit. That way you're not laying under the car trying to lift a heavy trans up to the engine and then installing trans-to-engine bolts.
No, no ,no. A qwik lift and a trans jack will make one think they are in heaven after trying the above. Trust me you will never go back to the old way.

(hint, screw guide studs in the bell housing to guide the tranny in). [/QUOTE]

The above makes a huge difference
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 4:12 PM
John
 
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Re: Engine install

I've done them many different ways...clip on, clip off. Tranny on the motor, tranny off. Like it was mentioned before. depends on the equipment. Clip on, tranny on, pull the hood, distributor, fan shroud, fan, dolly with a board for the tail housing, cover everything, set the angle and slide it in. Tranny in, like mentioned, tranny on a jack, pull the same and slide it in. I too worked in a tranny shop...7 years. Cars like MG's, Spitfires, Ply Horizon's and any thing with a K frame not fun. Full size cars....are cake. If you use alignment guides/pin use a hack saw and cut a slot in the end, helps for removal. So does a 3' extension and swivel sockets. Just take your time.

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Old Jan 24th, 20, 4:58 PM
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Re: Engine install

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTJOHN View Post
I've done them many different ways...clip on, clip off. Tranny on the motor, tranny off. Like it was mentioned before. depends on the equipment. Clip on, tranny on, pull the hood, distributor, fan shroud, fan, dolly with a board for the tail housing, cover everything, set the angle and slide it in. Tranny in, like mentioned, tranny on a jack, pull the same and slide it in. I too worked in a tranny shop...7 years. Cars like MG's, Spitfires, Ply Horizon's and any thing with a K frame not fun. Full size cars....are cake. If you use alignment guides/pin use a hack saw and cut a slot in the end, helps for removal. So does a 3' extension and swivel sockets. Just take your time.

John

Yes, a long extension and swivel sockets is the way to get the bell housing bolts in and out.
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Old Jan 24th, 20, 6:48 PM
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Re: Engine install

As you can see it can be done with or without being a complete unit, my last one I put the engine in and than i put the trans in after.
But be SURE your torque converter is set back into the front trans pump all the way.. If you can't spin it freely with the engine/trans mated you don't have it lined up properly.

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Old Jan 24th, 20, 8:20 PM
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Re: Engine install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothingbut69 View Post
As you can see it can be done with or without being a complete unit, my last one I put the engine in and than i put the trans in after.
But be SURE your torque converter is set back into the front trans pump all the way.. If you can't spin it freely with the engine/trans mated you don't have it lined up properly.

Another general rule on Turbohydramatics is if you can get your fingers between torque converter and the pump, it isn't on all the way. It's easier to get it on properly if you tilt the transmission back a little. Also not a bad idea to get a flywheel turning tool, they're not very expensive, or be ready with a socket and bar for the front crank bolt. Two notes there, don't turn the motor by the crank bolt counterclockwise and loosen it up, and if you have you timing lined up and your distributor is out for engine installation, don't start rolling the motor over until you have put your distributor in. I started out as a high schooler in 1982 helping change motors in a dirt floored horse barn aisle with one of those five dollar ratcheting come-a longs for a chain hoist, so I have seen or been a participant in just about every engine installation mistake known to man.
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