My cars sat a few years, the trunk key turns the lock but does not unlatch it. I have a firewall behind where the back seat used to be, and a fuel cell mounted center the trunk. Is drilling the lock the best option?
Frankie
Been a LONG time ago for me BUT I'm wondering, IF the key is turning the lock and you drill the lock out, wouldn't turning it with a screwdriver or such be the same as what the lock is doing now?
Been a LONG time ago for me BUT I'm wondering, IF the key is turning the lock and you drill the lock out, wouldn't turning it with a screwdriver or such be the same as what the lock is doing now? <img src="http://www.chevelles.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" />
Frankie,
This might sound stupid but are you sure that maybe it is actually unlatching it but the trunk lid is stuck down by the weatherstripping from sitting for so long ? Maybe have somebody pull up on the lid while you turn the key.
Have you sprayed something in the keyhole like pb blaster or Kroil in case the mechanism is stuck there. Living in a salt state, I have to do this every year to my truck.
Consider removing the back seat and entering the trunk to access from inside. Remove lock cylinder clip and lock cylinder and loosen fasteners at latch mechanism to free up any possible jam. Then you can use a screw driver at the latch mechanism instead of the key. Possible something is broken in the latch mechanism. You can get it open without further damage to work on or replace.
Consider removing the back seat and entering the trunk to access from inside. Remove lock cylinder clip and lock cylinder and loosen fasteners at latch mechanism to free up any possible jam. Then you can use a screw driver at the latch mechanism instead of the key. Possible something is broken in the latch mechanism. You can get it open without further damage to work on or replace.
My cars sat a few years, the trunk key turns the lock but does not unlatch it. I have a firewall behind where the back seat used to be, and a fuel cell mounted center the trunk.
...
Frankie
Put powered graphite in it then put the key in and take it out a few times, you can also try hitting the key with a rubber hammer while trying to turn it, I had luck a few times with that method. If not plan B is taking a screw driver or chisel that will sort of fit into the key slot and hitting it with a hammer till you feel the tumbler break, then it will open with a screw driver.
Put powered graphite in it then put the key in and take it out a few times, you can also try hitting the key with a rubber hammer while trying to turn it, I had luck a few times with that method. If not plan B is taking a screw driver or chisel that will sort of fit into the key slot and hitting it with a hammer till you feel the tumbler break, then it will open with a screw driver.
These cars are very simple to mess with. if you have a rear seat firewall then try going through the rear speaker hole with a very long extension and unbolt the upper or lower trunk latch and presto its open
Not sure he would have access to the trunk with a firewall but I like this idea if it ever happens to my convertible. I had an issue already and was able to get in only because I didn't have a top installed yet. This would certainly work for most Chevelles without a firewall. Obviously I would have to remove the back seat and divider/insulation in my case. Thanks
Here is a video on how to drill a Trunk lock..
You will need,
A drill,
Two Drill Bits, because one will break.
Screw Driver.
Sandals.
A side kick with a Pressure Washer.
And dont forget to NOT wear eye protection..
Thanks everyone for the input. I tried the above suggestions before posting. I'm letting a locksmith take care of it tomorrow. He said he's done many; and I surely wouldn't want to scratch the paint or do further damage. I'll post the results tomorrow.
If the lock cylinder turns and you have no results you're wasting your time getting an expensive locksmith. best to get someone who is experienced with these cars to help you instead
Trunk is open. The locksmith had to drill out the lock. Been a long day and I wasn’t able to be here when he did it. He said the sleeve the lock cylinder fits inside of is not correct to the ‘69 and causes the cylinder to drag. He is correct in his assumption the lock has never felt quiet right. I’ve had the car for 10 years. So I need to find out exactly what The “sleeve” is and hunt one up. He worked on it for about an hour and a half. He brought old parts with him for repair. So I can use it, temporarily. Good enough to get us to the track this weekend, weather permitting.
Thanks for all the advice.
Frankie
My trunk lock failed - the key wouldn’t turn. The internals fell apart inside. I used two drills, starting with a small one to center the hole, then a larger one, long shank, to hog out the internals. Took about an hour.
Anyone know where I can get parts for my 66 Trunk Lock? The flat shaft that goes from the key lock to the opening mechanism is very short and barely holding in place. I'd like to replace it. Thoughts on sources for this part?
Pull the back seat and using a long rod with a tip shaped like a flat tip screw driver reach through the back seat panel and turn the lock from the backside. It will pop right open.
I took the help of a locksmith to drill out the trunk lock. They came with the lockpicking kit to take the lockout.
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