Paper water shields - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 19, 6:03 PM Thread Starter
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Todd
 
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Paper water shields

Hey everyone, what kind of adhesive do I use to install the paper water shield to the inside door before the door panel goes on. I remember it being black and sticky.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 19, 6:07 PM
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Re: Paper water shields

I used the black 3M Strip-Calk



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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 19, 7:22 PM
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Re: Paper water shields

x2 on the strip calk its some handy stuff.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 19, 8:20 AM Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 19, 9:32 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

The factory used what some call dum dum. Kinda sticky, but comes off fairly easy. Cant remember where I bought it from, came in a 25 foot roll that looked like this oooo. So it was really 100 feet.

Tip:

Get yourself some thin plastic sheeting (visqueen) and attach it to the door panels with double sided tape for another layer of protection. As you know, water will absolutely destroy the pressboard panels.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 19, 5:46 PM
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Re: Paper water shields

Use Plastic instead of paper, it lasts longer and doesn't attract moisture.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 19, 10:05 PM
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Re: Paper water shields

Use plastic and 3M strip caulk. Works great. Toss in some Dynamat while you're in there.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 19, 5:10 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

Butyl tape.


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 19, 8:12 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

Here's a link to a post on the Autobodystore Forums that does a good job of explaining what one body shop owner does. Read the whole thread as it starts out addressing an issue with a BMW but leads into classic vehicles.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 19, 9:48 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

I also used a heavy mill plastic. I used butyl goo to seal it and Gorilla duct tape to help. When Gorilla tape is pressed hard by hand or with a roller, it's on forever.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 19, 10:05 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

That black Gorilla tape is actually dead on for what chevy used in a few areas to secure wiring.
I use strip caulk from Ace and Tyvek vapor barrier.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 19, 7:23 PM
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Re: Paper water shields

Not to be contrarian, but here is my experience with the water shields behind the door and rear window panels: I've never had them.

I bought a 1972 Cutlass in 1992 and did a pragmatic restoration on it (got it running and working). I had the door panels on and off several times and there never were any water shields. The panels were in excellent shape. I drove that car as my daily for more than a decade, coast to coast, border to border, in the rain and snow, and the only time it was in a garage was for a few months during a Chicago winter. Other than that, it was driven regularly in rain, including several downpours, and when parked it sat in that rain. I had the door panels off once about 8 or 9 years after first buying it to adjust the windows. Still no water shields, and the insides of the doors were rust free and the door panels completely undamaged. It's not that I was trying to save money, it's just that the car didn't have water shields when I bought it and took it apart, so I didn't speculate that it needed them. I didn't know, and this was far before Internet sites like this one. After I sold the car to a family member, I helped with a second restoration and the doors were still free of rust and the interior door panels straight and intact.

I now have a 1969 Chevelle as my daily that I bought in 2006. I've had the door panels off twice, once a couple years after I bought it to adjust window fit, and again about eight years later when trying to minimize window rattle. This car also came without water shields, and while I do now have it garaged, I live in Oregon and it's seen its fair share of rain and downpours. The doors are still rust free and the interior panels still look like new. I did have the back interior panels off last November and the insides looked fine, and, as the front, the interior panels still look like new.

Taking my experiences with two cars over two decades over several thousands of miles and varying climates, and comparing them to other reports, those water shields may instead attract moisture, retain or trap it, and cause damage to panels they're supposed to protect. Maybe, maybe not. That's just a hindsight speculation, one that would be difficult to prove or disprove without controlled factors.

When I sold the Cutlass, it was run down but free of rust. I saw it a year later after it had been under a tarp and there was surface rust starting all over -- on the convertible rails, the air cleaner, the trunk, etc. I have a theory that even though I drove (and drive) these cars in all kinds of weather, I never let them sit in that weather for more than a little while. I believe that driving them often "airs" them out and prevents a lot of water damage and rust. For a hobby car that gets driven every once in while, washed, and sits for the rest of the time, maybe water shields are a good idea. I don't know. Take it for what it's worth.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 19, 1:10 AM
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I just recently went through this with my '68 Chevelle. I used thick plastic sheeting that I had laying around. I used the old paper water shields as a template to cut the new ones out. I used butyl rubber sealant tape from Home depot. $5 for a 40' roll it's inexpensive and seemed to do its job.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 19, 8:09 AM
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Re: Paper water shields

Speaking about vapor barriers, the code here on homes did away with the visqueen inside vapor barrier. You know, the one tacked to the interior of the house studs. Since most homes are air conditioned, they figured if the cold air on the inside of the home hits the hotter air in the wall from outside, moisture develops in the wall. As a mason for many years, code was to put tar paper (felt) on the exterior of the houses and the wall breathed to the inside. Then the interior visqueen idea came along and they did both. That didn't allow the wall to breathe. Then the code changed again and they did away with the tar paper.
Today, it's only the house wrap (Tyvek) on the outside and this allows the wall to breathe to the outside and keeps the moisture from coming in from outside. I supose the cold a/c air can also move through the wall and Tyvek to the outside as well because the TYvek allows this transition.
So I wonder how this applies to the paper on the inside of the doors or if folks put plastic there, is it a moisture trap as well? You'd think the air going in and round the interior parts would be enough to keep it moisture free.
Just wanted to mention it. I like the idea of putting the Tyvek behind the door pannels and allowing the compartment to transition air back and forth.

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