Been a little while since I've updated, but I have been working diligently on the project amongst other things.
Today, I got the engine back in the frame, hopefully for the last time.
I put the body back on temporarily after cutting a big "I" in the tunnel. I didn't go as far as the BRP guid says to go, but it's still a little bit bigger than I probably needed. Prior to cutting it, the tail of the 6L90 was hitting the tunnel, but it looks like it was just barely. I'm going to weld in a 3/4" piece of flat stock and there should be more than enough room. I can get my fingers between the body and the bell housing with no issue.
This is with the motor in and the body sitting back on the frame.
Not a great picture of it back on frame, a little dark. The front coil overs still need to be adjusted and the rear upper control arms need to be adjusted a bit.
I also got a good deal on a non-operable cow hood
I also cleared off the firewall so I can paint it with POR15. The undercarriage has been cleaned up and the Lizard Skin is waiting to go on. A Vintage Air a/c setup will be going in place of the heater box. Looks like at one point someone made it a room without a view.
What is this? ^
I also ordered a bunch of parts including the exhaust, well part of it.
Hooker 42114 G-body swap downpipes. Not sure if these will work and I'm not sure about the quality, plus they showed today, two weeks before Jegs said they would. Not that it's a bad thing, just frustrating. As far as the quality, and I'm not sure if it is an issue or not, but the bung on one of the pips was not aligned with the hole drilled into the pipe itself. I'll have to see if it's going to cause an issue with the instal of the O2 sensor.
Pypes XVA10: I think That I probably should have ordered the XVF10 as those run down the tunnel.
Driveshaft: 2010 Chevy Express van aluminum shaft with 6L90 yoke. I'm going to have it shortened and a conversion joint put in so it will bolt up to the 10 bolt.