'70 Wagon Build Thread* - Page 4 - Chevelle Tech
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post #46 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 15, 4:01 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

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They do indeed. It's the minimum security portion of the prison out at Indian Springs. They do pretty good work and they have a pretty good labor rate. They aren't that great at taking pictures or even getting them to you, but it's a small price to pay.
Got to be better than being confined to a cell and hopefully it gives some of them a useable, useful skill when they're released. I'm curious to see what their work looks like. They did your Firebird in the links in your signature?
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post #47 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 15, 4:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Yeah, it does beat being stuck in a cell all day. Yes, they are doing the work on the Firebird. This far it's been pretty good. Better than I would probably get from a "real" shop, but not as good as sending it to a master shop.


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #48 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 1:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

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Do yourself a favor and weld nuts on the frame for the rear upper shock mounts.
I made an incorrect assumption that new mounting hardware would come with the shocks. Can anyone tell me what size nut and bolt are used to mount the rear upper shock mounts?

Thanks



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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #49 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 1:24 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

5/16", factory used locking nuts, I used regular nuts and will install with blue loctite.

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post #50 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 1:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

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5/16", factory used locking nuts, I used regular nuts and will install with blue loctite.

Thanks Philip, how long? 1"? I need to go to McFadden Dale and pick some up so I can weld them to the frame. I was going to go with blue loctite as well.


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #51 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 2:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

And I can finally do this after putting in about 24 hours into sandblasting the frame. That pressurized blaster sucked, but that 50 lb one did the job. Had I not recycled the sand, I would have gone through apx 1,200 lbs.


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #52 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 2:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Received my PST, QA1 an UMI stuff. I managed to forget to order the rear upper spring pads. Thanks to Amazon they will be here Sunday.


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #53 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 2:02 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

1" should work, the thickness of the shock mount, frame, nut plus about 4 threads.

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post #54 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 15, 2:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Thanks


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #55 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 15, 12:03 AM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprech View Post
And I can finally do this after putting in about 24 hours into sandblasting the frame. That pressurized blaster sucked, but that 50 lb one did the job. Had I not recycled the sand, I would have gone through apx 1,200 lbs.
Using my little siphon blaster the frame was done using around 200 lbs and I did not recycle it. The small blaster does poorly unless it has fresh media. At $8 for 50 lbs it was not worth all the extra time and wear on the compressor.

Let me know what you think of the QA1 set up. I pulled it out of the Nova because the ride was to harsh. Handled well, the adjustable height and shocks were nice but for a driver, especially this old guy, I needed a softer ride.

While the frame is still bare take a measurement between the upper control arm mounts. If it has any frame sag that is the best way to determine how much.

This is from Pete Lohr's site, einstyn.com

Quote:
Next it is very important before putting too much work into the frame to check it for “frame sag”. Frame sag occurs with age and use of a vehicle. It effects the front-end alignment. If a frame is sagged too much, you can tell if the front-end alignment cannot be achieved and all the shims under the front upper control arms are out from between the c-arm shafts and the frame. By measuring the distance between the c-arm mounts you can see how much your frame has sagged. A new frame measures 32”. A frame that measures 31-3/8” is too close. You should have at least 31-3/4” to start with. You can get away with offset shafts if it is not closer then 31-3/8” but the best fix is to take it to a frame shop and have them pull it back out to 32” while you have it apart. If you are using stock c-arms thee is a concern with the clearance as frames sag, between the c-arm shaft bolts and steering shaft and the exhaust manifolds or headers on big blocks.

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post #56 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 15, 3:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

So, I decided to have the frame powder coated. This is mainly the result of my own doing. After spending a lot of time cleaning the frame and making many mistakes along the way, my paint prep was not perfect for the Summit chassis epoxy and there were a couple of places where the epoxy did not set. I had used Jasco stripped and there were some areas that were stained and I couldn't get any cleaner. These places are where it did not set. Even the control arms where I used no s tripper had issues with setting though they appeared to be clean. Since I'm running short on time and have to go out of town this weekend, Snail Motorsports has good reviews and can blast and coat all in house.

I am not following the chassis sag post as far as the measurements. Is there any more detail on it?

As far as the blaster, that was an ID10T error. I hadn't been paying attention to the nozzle and it reamed itself out to the point that it chipped. Once a new nozzle was put on, it worked a lot more efficiently. More so than when I started using it.

While the frame is out, I'm going to clean and prep the undercarriage. I put the Jasco in a couple of spots to see how it did and I'm going to look at the needle scaler as the undercoating is pretty hard.


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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #57 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 15, 6:55 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Measure the distance between the upper control arm mounts. 32" is ideal, 31.75" is workable, anything less and the frame should be brought back to spec. Mine was 31.75".

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post #58 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 15, 9:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

So then the "sagging" is the frame effectively caving in on itself?

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1969 6.0 Firebird (sold)

Any thoughts on why my front bumper had the Monte Carlo style parking lamps?
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post #59 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 15, 9:10 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

Yes, from engine weight, rough roads, age, to many wheelies . A lot easier to fix on a bare frame but I have done it on an assembled car. Chained the frame down at the outboard side of the engine cross member and jack up on the center of the cross member.

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post #60 of 104 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 15, 9:13 PM
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Re: '70 Wagon Build Thread*

BTW on my wagon offset upper control arm shafts were installed. The camber looks to be at 0, but there is no body weight on the suspension yet. It will need just a small amount of shims to align.

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