So once I had the rear window lifts in and good, I started on the rear locks.
The back doors of the VC have a similar system for actuating the door locks as the Chevelle: knob lock rod, bell crank, and linkage to the latch. The VC parts are a little different in length, so I combined what I needed from both.
The Chevelle lock rod going to the knob and linkage going from the bell crank to the latch assembly were removed from the Chevelle bell crank, and the VC bell crank was put into its place. I carefully ground the backside of the pins down until I could remove them from all of the components, and put everything back together with the Chevelle rods and the VC bell crank and tack welded it. Then I mounted the VC solenoids in the same place as they would be in the Chevelle. There are dimples in the inner door where I needed to drill.
Bolted in the solenoids and wired everything up. All worked well, I just needed to make the linkage from the solenoid to the bell crank. I made a few of these on the first side I completed, and 2 for the second. I didn’t take any pics of this, I was supremely frustrated by the time I was done.
I still have to look at this, as I sometimes have an issue where one door won’t lock, and the other won’t unlock. I don’t know if it due to linkage length or issues with the strength of the solenoids. It can depend on outside temperature, whether the car is running or not (voltage), and sometime it doesn’t matter why it does or does not work. No matter, most times they lock fine.
Again, cut holes for the door wire boots a little tight and opened them up. Removed the doors as it saved lots of headache.The boot ends for the rear doors measure approx 1.6” diam on the door end and 1.3” diam on the body end. This is the opposite sizing of the fronts. Wiring is led thru the door into the body. Again, in order to have a nice fit, the door was cut with a 1-1/2” diameter hole saw and the body was cut with a 1-1/8” diameter hole saw. Actual measurement of the GM punched hole in the door is 1-5/8” diam. Also again, edges of the holes were gently deburred with a grinding stone on a die grinder.
As mentioned above, the rear door harness is fed thru the door into the body, opposite of the fronts which are fed thru the body into the door.
Looking at how the harnesses have the taped-in clips that snap into hole in the sheet metal to retain the harnesses, I think the rear door wiring goes into the door pillar and thru the upper large inner hole to the inside of the pillar, where it is covered by the trim piece.
I first ran it inside and down, but switched when I saw the clip. Not sure which is right, it seems it could work either way. Anyone know?
Window wiring is run thru the mid body conduit under the drivers seat to the rear footwell and across to the doors. Door lock wiring for driver side also runs thru the conduit to the driver side rear door, but on the passenger side it runs down the firewall (maybe along the trans tunnel?) along the floor and under the seat to the passenger side rear door. Don’t know about clips on the floor, probably just hidden under the carpet.
So now I have power windows and locks. Yay.