Fixing leaky Intake Manifold - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 04, 8:31 PM Thread Starter
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I was having a problem with leaking oil mostly from the valve covers, but some also from the manifold. It wasn't a lot of oil, but I wanted to clean the engine bay up. So I removed the valve covers, carb and intake and replaced all the gaskets and used Loctite sealant on the intake which is a soft-seal, fast-drying sealer. My buddy says he's used it on a couple of other engines and it works great. Well, after driving home I noticed oil leaking on the driveway. After looking closely, I noticed the rear of the intake was leaking a lot of oil, but only in that one spot. We didn't use the front and rear intake gaskets, so this saturday I did the same thing all over again, but I used Permatex hard-sealing sealer and all the gaskets. Now the leak is even bigger! What am I doing wrong? What type of sealer is the best? I think there was orange sealer on it before. Could the intake be warped? TIA [img]graemlins/angry.gif[/img]

EDIT: What about this?
Orange Permatex

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 04, 9:51 PM
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Hardening Permatex [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
Hope you didn't. I had to hoist an engine up and hammer a screw driver between the intake and block to get the intake off. Was togethor only a week or so. I was only 16 at the time. Didn't look and grabbed the wrong permatex. I really hope you got the non hardening kind.

I prefer Permatex Ultra Blue or Rightstuff. A lot of guys like the black stuff. Dodge sells it. You can use the red stuff, but it's for higher temps.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 04, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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First time i used the soft stuff, and the intake still leaked and came off a little "too easy". So this time i used the hard permatex, but it's still leaking. thanks for the advice. anyone else? TIA

Donnie<br />1968 Chevelle 300 2-Door 396<br />12.7 @ 105<br />1.98 60'<br /><a href="
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 04, 8:05 AM
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Make sure you're not using the Fel Pro Perma-Torque "stiff" gaskets with the steel core. Those many times don't seal up well. Use Fel Pro "Printo Seal" soft ones or Mr Gasket "Ultra Seal". I've been through the wringer on sealing up my intake and finally hit on a good combo. I use Permatex No. 2 on both sides of the intake ports only. Gas seems to eat up silicone sealers. I use Permatex Ultra Black silicone compound on both sides of the gasket water openings and for the end seal beads on the block. Make sure the manifold, head, and block surfaces are squeaky CLEAN. Lay down about a 1/4" to 5/16" tall bead on the front and rear block rails WITH NO LOW SPOTS and run them about 3/8" up on the heads. Treat the gaskets as previously described and lay them on the heads. The Permatex No. 2 should hold them in place. Put a little Ultra Black on the gaskets in the corners. Place the manifold straight down on the gaskets. If you have to shift it much at all you can screw up the end beads. Torque the bolts to 25-28 ft/lb starting from the center out, alternating side to side. Let it dry 24 hours before adding coolant. Retorque the bolts after a couple cool down cycles. They will loosen.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 04, 8:50 AM
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I know a lot of people skip using the front and rear gaskets, but I still use them along with sealant. I never have a leak. I also seal both sides of the manifold gasket like the other fella. I also use ultra seal gaskets, and fel-pro without any problems. I also use teflon pipe thread goop on my manilod bolts. I don't like leaks. [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 04, 1:46 PM
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I just use HiTack to hold the side gaskets, RTV for end gaskets, and sealer on the mounting bolts. Put it together and DON'T start it till the next day. It won't leak.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 04, 2:23 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by d1_bradley:
I just use HiTack to hold the side gaskets, RTV for end gaskets, and sealer on the mounting bolts. Put it together and DON'T start it till the next day. It won't leak.
Same here
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 4th, 04, 2:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by d1_bradley:
I just use HiTack to hold the side gaskets, RTV for end gaskets, and sealer on the mounting bolts. Put it together and DON'T start it till the next day. It won't leak.
That's the way I do it.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 04, 9:16 PM
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You definitely don't want to use permatex hard or soft to create a seal. As stated above use silicone sealer, I like the black or orange type. Lay a bead about a quarter to 3/8ths inch wide and high. Overlap the corners of the side rail gaskets. Let it set up until it starts to skin, won't stick to your finger. Place the intake on the engine without moving it around any more than necessary. Torque the intake down and let it sit for a day. You should be all set.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 04, 9:28 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have the right torque and pattern for the bolts? Thanks for all the replies. Should get it this weekend, if the weather holds out. We have a tornado watch tonight.

Donnie<br />1968 Chevelle 300 2-Door 396<br />12.7 @ 105<br />1.98 60'<br /><a href="
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 04, 12:38 AM
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I always degrease both surfaces front and rear of block and bottom of intake with carb cleaner before applying the silicone, then put a bead about 3/8 on the block and let it cure for about 1/2 hour.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 04, 9:21 AM
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torque is 30lbs. torque pattern is in most any chilton.a goggle search will probably turn up the pattern too.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 04, 8:10 PM
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If it's OK to flog a dead thread... has anyone seen the Edelbrock intake gaskets? I don't know who actually makes them, but they're supposedly heavy steel-cored types.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 04, 8:23 PM
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i see no one bothered to mention the best silicone on the planet- the GM black that's available at any GM dealer. it's what they use on the assembly line for intake end seals, and is pretty durable.

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