ZZ4 Distributor - Page 5 - Chevelle Tech
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post #61 of 86 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 19, 11:19 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Originally Posted by Hotrodder000 View Post
Thanks. So what about the 2 wires coming off of the MSD going to the flame thrower? One is coming from the MSD unit and the other is coming off the 2 terminal block mounted to the firewall that is shown above the blaster 2.



That wire is coming off of a circuit breaker, most likely the circuit breaker is not needed with your replacement HEI, 1 direct straight 12 volt feed wire from the ignition circuit to the BAT connector is all you need for the HEI to get your engine running, plus timing it correctly, good luck. Where is the wire going to the circuit breaker coming from??

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post #62 of 86 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 19, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Red is coming from the blaster 2 I believe and the black is going to the msd unit harness.
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post #63 of 86 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 19, 12:35 AM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Mike, with the Delco distributor (good move BTW) you don't need the MSD unit or Blaster coil. As Leo explained above, all you need to make it run is a 12 volt ignition feed wire to the BAT connection on the new distributor....and a vacuum line to the advance can. Simple and effective.
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Last edited by pnugene; Dec 28th, 19 at 12:37 AM. Reason: Added text
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post #64 of 86 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 19, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Is there any advantage to the MSD on this motor?

If it's not broken, let's fix it till it is.
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post #65 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 20, 9:44 AM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
As far as the upper shim I use, hardware store, and take th shaft and reluctor with you. I use a very thin diameter red fiber washer that fits all the way up into the under side of the reluctor to help alleviate the excessive end play, then complete the end play setting with the steel shims on the bottom of the shaft. End play, between .015 and .019. DO NOT STACK SHIMS SO THICK THAT THE ROTOR DOES NOT SPRING BACK FREELY. This is why we still want .015 plus end play, so the "stack" doesn't lock up the mechanical advance.

So, hardware store, thin wall red fiber washer, .030 or so thick, then set the end play to what I said before, and always check the shaft stack when installing the distributor, to make sure the oil pump drive isn't hard stacked, either.
Forgive me - whereabouts in a hardware store (or Home Depot) would I find these fiber washers? Plumbing section? Nuts & bolts? I don't recall ever seeing such a thing, and don't even know enough about what I'm looking for to ask for help.

You have a photo of one?

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post #66 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 20, 2:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Forgive me - whereabouts in a hardware store (or Home Depot) would I find these fiber washers? Plumbing section? Nuts & bolts? I don't recall ever seeing such a thing, and don't even know enough about what I'm looking for to ask for help.

You have a photo of one?

Your chances are better at Ace Hardware in my opinion. Home Depot and Lowes are disappointing when it comes to locating hardware. Or amazon. Here is an assortment on amazon.




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post #67 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 20, 2:47 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Mike, thanks! I think I can take this photo to the hardware and they can point me in the right direction.
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post #68 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 20, 8:58 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Try an electric motor shop.We use them all the time in my shop

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post #69 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 7:11 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Most good hardware stores carry red fiber washers, usually in the plumbing, sometimes in the electronic department. Look for one .031 or so thick. Even my hardware store in a town of 2,100 people, a True Value, has a large bolt and nut section, mine has screws and other small stuff as well, regular steel, and stainless steel.
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post #70 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 11:26 AM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Thanks again guys!
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post #71 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 20, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Originally Posted by Georgia69 View Post
Thanks again guys!

You got it.

If it's not broken, let's fix it till it is.
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post #72 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 20, 1:13 AM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Originally Posted by pnugene View Post
The BAT (coil primary) to TAC (coil negative) connector is less than 1 ohm.
Closer to 1/2 ohm.






I'm fairly sure GM literature warns against grounding the Tach terminal, although I'm not seeing that in my HEI-specific booklets.
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post #73 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 20, 5:54 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

Grounding the TACH terminal on the large coil in cap HEI, simply stops the spark. DOING SO DOES NOT CAUSE MODULE/COIL FAILURE. Good place to connect an anti-theft switch, TACH to switch, to ground, on, no spark, off, spark.
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post #74 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 20, 10:58 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

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Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
Closer to 1/2 ohm.






I'm fairly sure GM literature warns against grounding the Tach terminal, although I'm not seeing that in my HEI-specific booklets.
You are correct. Given that Wattage is voltage squared divided by resistance, if the Tach line is grounded and 12V is applied to the Bat terminal, we get (12^2)/.6= 240 watts in the coil.

Underhood toaster oven. (Lets hope a fuse pops PDQ)
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post #75 of 86 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 20, 10:28 PM
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Re: ZZ4 Distributor

BATT to TACH is simply positive to negative, power in - to coil signal, PRIMARY WINDINGS RESISTANCE. For a coil in cap HEI, 1.00 to 1.20 ohms is stock, works, .60 to .70 ohms works a touch better, notihng to write home about.
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