Replace Rear end yoke seal on 12 bolt? - Chevelle Tech
2002 General Tech questions from 2002

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:29 PM
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Is it difficult to replace the yoke seal. Am I correct in recalling that they are similar to rear trans seals.
Do I just remove the drive shaft, the nut holding the yoke (with an impact gun), then remove the yoke and to remove the seal use a screwdriver to pry it out (or use vise grips to pull out the seal)?
Car is a 69 chevelle with a 12 bolt posi.
Thanks in advance for your help,
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:36 PM
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That's exactly how it's done! Expect to have a small amount of fluid loss, so catch it with a pan. Replace any fluid after you're done.

Gregg Haskin
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:43 PM
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I'm going to have to disagree. As soon as you remove that pinion nut you lose your bearing preload setting. There is a school that claims you can mark the nut and yoke so that the nut goes back on EXACTLY where it came off from, or it's a new crush sleeve and reset your preload. Heck, you wanted steeper gears anyhow....

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:52 PM
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I normally try to do all my own work, but the pinion seal scared me a little for the reasons stated by Cam. I took it to a shop, they only charged me $50. I figured the $50 was a good tradeoff for the possibility tearing up a rearend.

Mike Newby

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:59 PM
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Cam is right about the touchy area of pre-load. You are always better off using a new crush sleeve and resetting the pre-load. It takes a preety good impact set-up to crush those dudes anyway,,,for a few bucks your better off on having a reputable shop handle it. Been there done that....Just my .02 worth!

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:10 AM
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I wasn't aware the yoke had anything to do with preload (rear gear adjustment?). I wanted to do this myself but if preload is a strong concern, as it sounds, then I have to find another mechanic. The one that had replaced the seal last summer told me that the reason the seal is leaking is because the yoke had a wear grove in it and to replace it and the seal was a big job - cost $300.
I had considered having the seal and the 4:11 gears replaced but after some more thought I decided I like these gears.
If I put paint on the threads before removing the nut (to use as a guide when replacing the nut) will that be enough of a guide to put the nut back exactly where it was?

Thanks for all your good info.
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:48 AM
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John the yoke is an integral part of the preload process. The nut you are tightening is being tightened against the yoke. The best way to reuse the crush spacer that is on the pinion now is to "stake" the nut and the yoke with a chisel mark such that as you tighten the nut up the marks line up as the nut is fully tightened. The trick here is to get the marks lined up and go NO further. This will put the preload back where it was when you initially loosened the nut.

There is no need to be afraid of this job. Just take your time and do it correctly. Bear in mind the marks are critical. Make them such that they are clear and easy to line up.

Incidently this method negates the need to check preload when you are done. Basically you are accepting what you get when you get it. Good luck

Obviously if you have already loosened the nut then you cannot use this method because your initial reference point is already gone.

[This message has been edited by charbilly2001 (edited 03-21-2002).]
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:55 AM
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To be fair to Gregg and Charbilly, though, lots of people do it that way. I just wasn't comfortable with it.

Mike Newby

69 Chevelle 355/TH200-4R
97 Grand Prix GTP
64 Chevy C10 Pickup
79 Suzuki GS550

[This message has been edited by Georgia69 (edited 03-21-2002).]
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:57 AM
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Once again, have to agree with Charbilly. Denny instructed me to do same as Charbilly points out in replacing rear yoke for larger 1350 size. It will be hard to get your marks back in line unless you have a LARGE extension on your breaker bar. Its defintely a Schwartzenegger move.

Edit: if you loosened your nut already, there is a reasonable chance that if you tighten it back up as far as your muscles will allow with a large ext on your breaker bar, you might get real, real close to the original setting.

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[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 03-21-2002).]
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:59 AM
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Thanks for the good advise. I will take your advise and mark the nut and yoke as one but will also mark the yoke against the rear to help indicate yoke position. As it nears original position I will watch for the mark alignment of the nut to yoke.

Thanks again!
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:03 PM
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Sounds Mickey Mouse to me. But to each he's own.
just think if you don't get it right, you'll end up spending more money in the long run.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:08 PM
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Be sure to mark the nut and pinion stem with a chisel or punch. Paint, felt tip, etc., can come off and then you're screwed. I have some old (70's) Pontiac Service manuals that say to tighten the nut to the location it was before PLUS an additional 1/32" past that to ensure the crush sleeve is loaded enough. The purpose of the crush sleeve is to pre-load the front pinion bearing inner race to keep it from spinning on the pinion. Also the nut position helps ensure the proper pre-load is on the front and rear pinion bearings. In the ideal world a small scale inch-pound torque wrench is used to check pinion rotating resistance to set the proper pre-load.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:42 PM
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I've done both 10 bolts and 12 bolts with the "mark" method and they work fine.

Dave Bradley
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 7:42 PM
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Have we not overlooked the reason(s) the seal failed? Maybe because of old age and wear, and maybe because of a grooved surface on the yoke. If his mechanic was right about the groove, then what's the use in putting a new seal on it? If a new yoke is needed, will it be exactly the same length as the old one?

My $0.02

[This message has been edited by JJ'65 (edited 03-21-2002).]
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 10:33 PM
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Hey fellas 25ftlbs on a new crush collarbearing preload and 15ftlbs on a used set up.
Get a torque wrench and do it yourself..
It's that easy... Just did this last week and now have 2 more buddies wanting thier seals replaced.
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