Replace Rear end yoke seal on 12 bolt? - Chevelle Tech
2002 General Tech questions from 2002

 1Likes
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:29 PM
JohnH
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Is it difficult to replace the yoke seal. Am I correct in recalling that they are similar to rear trans seals.
Do I just remove the drive shaft, the nut holding the yoke (with an impact gun), then remove the yoke and to remove the seal use a screwdriver to pry it out (or use vise grips to pull out the seal)?
Car is a 69 chevelle with a 12 bolt posi.
Thanks in advance for your help,
John
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:36 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
Gregg
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Berlin, VT
Posts: 1,114
That's exactly how it's done! Expect to have a small amount of fluid loss, so catch it with a pan. Replace any fluid after you're done.

------------------
Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
ZZ502 Crated RAT
Muncie M-20 4 speed
TEAM CHEVELLE #726 ACES #4486
"PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN!"
“What the heck are all these extra nuts & bolts for?”

My 72 Chevelle SS Restoration Website: www.wcvt.com/~ghaskin
riskyvt is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:43 PM
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: Snohomish, Wa
Posts: 484
I'm going to have to disagree. As soon as you remove that pinion nut you lose your bearing preload setting. There is a school that claims you can mark the nut and yoke so that the nut goes back on EXACTLY where it came off from, or it's a new crush sleeve and reset your preload. Heck, you wanted steeper gears anyhow....

Cam
Cam Sweet is offline  
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:52 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
Mike
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 6,625
I normally try to do all my own work, but the pinion seal scared me a little for the reasons stated by Cam. I took it to a shop, they only charged me $50. I figured the $50 was a good tradeoff for the possibility tearing up a rearend.

------------------
Mike Newby

69 Chevelle 355/TH200-4R
97 Grand Prix GTP
64 Chevy C10 Pickup
79 Suzuki GS550
ViperSniper likes this.
Georgia69 is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 02, 4:59 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 121
Cam is right about the touchy area of pre-load. You are always better off using a new crush sleeve and resetting the pre-load. It takes a preety good impact set-up to crush those dudes anyway,,,for a few bucks your better off on having a reputable shop handle it. Been there done that....Just my .02 worth!

------------------
ACES #3355
ChevyTalk Silver Member
Metroplex Muscle Car Club
Assoc. of Proud SS Clone Owners
1972 Chevelle SS (clone),black/black 350ci
black72 is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:10 AM
JohnH
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I wasn't aware the yoke had anything to do with preload (rear gear adjustment?). I wanted to do this myself but if preload is a strong concern, as it sounds, then I have to find another mechanic. The one that had replaced the seal last summer told me that the reason the seal is leaking is because the yoke had a wear grove in it and to replace it and the seal was a big job - cost $300.
I had considered having the seal and the 4:11 gears replaced but after some more thought I decided I like these gears.
If I put paint on the threads before removing the nut (to use as a guide when replacing the nut) will that be enough of a guide to put the nut back exactly where it was?

Thanks for all your good info.
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:48 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
Bill
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Jay, OK
Posts: 4,131
John the yoke is an integral part of the preload process. The nut you are tightening is being tightened against the yoke. The best way to reuse the crush spacer that is on the pinion now is to "stake" the nut and the yoke with a chisel mark such that as you tighten the nut up the marks line up as the nut is fully tightened. The trick here is to get the marks lined up and go NO further. This will put the preload back where it was when you initially loosened the nut.


There is no need to be afraid of this job. Just take your time and do it correctly. Bear in mind the marks are critical. Make them such that they are clear and easy to line up.


Incidently this method negates the need to check preload when you are done. Basically you are accepting what you get when you get it. Good luck


Obviously if you have already loosened the nut then you cannot use this method because your initial reference point is already gone.

[This message has been edited by charbilly2001 (edited 03-21-2002).]
charbilly2001 is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:55 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
Mike
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 6,625
To be fair to Gregg and Charbilly, though, lots of people do it that way. I just wasn't comfortable with it.

------------------
Mike Newby

69 Chevelle 355/TH200-4R
97 Grand Prix GTP
64 Chevy C10 Pickup
79 Suzuki GS550

[This message has been edited by Georgia69 (edited 03-21-2002).]
Georgia69 is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:57 AM
Gold Member
Gene
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 13,722
Once again, have to agree with Charbilly. Denny www.dennysdriveshaft.com instructed me to do same as Charbilly points out in replacing rear yoke for larger 1350 size. It will be hard to get your marks back in line unless you have a LARGE extension on your breaker bar. Its defintely a Schwartzenegger move.

Edit: if you loosened your nut already, there is a reasonable chance that if you tighten it back up as far as your muscles will allow with a large ext on your breaker bar, you might get real, real close to the original setting.

------------------
Gene
Gold Member 62/ACES 3112
67 SS 427

[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 03-21-2002).]
427L88 is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 8:59 AM
JohnH
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the good advise. I will take your advise and mark the nut and yoke as one but will also mark the yoke against the rear to help indicate yoke position. As it nears original position I will watch for the mark alignment of the nut to yoke.

Thanks again!
post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:03 PM
Senior Tech Team
Donnie
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: South Bend, Indiana
Posts: 1,552
Sounds Mickey Mouse to me. But to each he's own.
just think if you don't get it right, you'll end up spending more money in the long run.

------------------
70 SS396 CHEVELLE
70.5 Z/28 RALLYSPORT
ACES#4390
some pics http://community.webshots.com/album/12590431pqkzKyilTC
Donnie1 is offline  
post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:08 PM
von
Lifetime Founding Member
Von
 
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Mooresville, IN (Indianapolis)
Posts: 14,296
Be sure to mark the nut and pinion stem with a chisel or punch. Paint, felt tip, etc., can come off and then you're screwed. I have some old (70's) Pontiac Service manuals that say to tighten the nut to the location it was before PLUS an additional 1/32" past that to ensure the crush sleeve is loaded enough. The purpose of the crush sleeve is to pre-load the front pinion bearing inner race to keep it from spinning on the pinion. Also the nut position helps ensure the proper pre-load is on the front and rear pinion bearings. In the ideal world a small scale inch-pound torque wrench is used to check pinion rotating resistance to set the proper pre-load.

------------------
von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575
My '69 SS
von is offline  
post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 4:42 PM
Senior Tech Team
Dave
 
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Sapulpa, OK
Posts: 4,973
I've done both 10 bolts and 12 bolts with the "mark" method and they work fine.

------------------
Dave Bradley
www.corvetteforum.net/classics/d1_bradley
'69 SS396 ragtop
'33 3W Coupe
'65 Vette BB Roadster
d1_bradley is offline  
post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 7:42 PM
Senior Tech Team
Jim
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Fresno
Posts: 1,721
Have we not overlooked the reason(s) the seal failed? Maybe because of old age and wear, and maybe because of a grooved surface on the yoke. If his mechanic was right about the groove, then what's the use in putting a new seal on it? If a new yoke is needed, will it be exactly the same length as the old one?

My $0.02

[This message has been edited by JJ'65 (edited 03-21-2002).]
JJ'65 is offline  
post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 10:33 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mt.Washington,Ky
Posts: 97
Hey fellas 25ftlbs on a new crush collarbearing preload and 15ftlbs on a used set up.
Get a torque wrench and do it yourself..
It's that easy... Just did this last week and now have 2 more buddies wanting thier seals replaced.
RandyB is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevelle Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Old Thread Warning
This Thread is more than 3282 days old. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though.

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome