Replace Rear end yoke seal on 12 bolt? - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
2002 General Tech questions from 2002

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 02, 11:45 PM
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Terry
 
Join Date: May 2001
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RandyB:
Hey fellas 25ftlbs on a new crush collarbearing preload and 15ftlbs on a used set up.
Get a torque wrench and do it yourself..
It's that easy... Just did this last week and now have 2 more buddies wanting thier seals replaced.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

No disrespect intended Randy but you may also have two buddys that want you to replace their gears after a couple of thousand miles. I just did a gear change and after getting advice here, I decided to have it done by a pro. From what I understand, the preload is extremly important. We do a lot of dirt racing and I have seen incorrectly installed gears so sharp you could shave with them. I just don't think it is worth taking the chance.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 02, 7:06 AM
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No disrespect here either. But a good mechanic can tell the difference between doing it correctly, and doing it with both eyes shut.
I've known this to be done quit a few times.
I learned this from a friend that does rock crawling in his 327 powered jeep for sport. He sets up rears all the time. Since I like to get extra opinions, I checked with a guy that's done his share of car building for 40 years, that also happens to be a certified deisel mechanic for the past 30 years. I don't tread down new areas at full speed until I know for sure that what I'm doing will work. Now if someone is in doubt about doing something, this is the difference between being able to do it, and thinking they can do it. I don't give advice until I know it's correct advice. Marking the pinion nut and resetting the preload will work in a pinch, but not the best way to go about it. Why not use a torque wrench and know for sure. Even Richmond gear instructions tells you how to reset preload with a used crush sleeve. I don't mean to sound nasty in my reply. I give my info free, and correct. I don't like learning the hard and expensive way. If someone wants to learn from previous lessons and save some cash why not. But if they're still unsure, they might just want to let a shop do the work.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 02, 10:44 AM
von
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I think you mean 25 and 15 INCH pounds. A big difference from foot pounds.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 02, 9:03 PM
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You people are making a mountain out of a mole hill.

I just changed my pinion seal and pinion yoke and followed the install advice of Denny from Denny's driveshaft. It a real simple procedure and the pinion preload is easy to re-establish. I do not subscribe to the marking the nut method as you should really be installing a new nut anyway. Also, if you change the yoke, it's a good chance the new one might not be exactly the same thickness where it bolts to the pinion which will change the preload if you marked the nut.

Here's the method I find works fine. Take your old yoke off and replace the seal. Make sure you pack the seal groove with axle bearing grease. According to Denny, most seals leak because they were installed with oil which is not enough to protect the seal. Next install the yoke and nut using locktite on the threads. Hold the yoke with what ever tool you use (I made a tool that bolts to the yoke with a 30" long handle) and tighten the nut by hand with a 1/2" ratchet. It's near impossible to crush the sleeve with a hand ratchet, so once your ratchet stops turning, your done.

There's no need to disassemble the rear to reset the pinion preload IMO. I've seen many racers install used gears and as long as the mechanic setting up the gears can get them set up as they were originally, they will last just fine.

I do feel if you question your mechanical skills or ability, then take it to a professional.

[This message has been edited by 10secBu (edited 03-22-2002).]
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 10, 6:04 PM
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Re: Replace Rear end yoke seal on 12 bolt?

I just asked my brother this question since I just bought a leaky 12 bolt that needs the seal replaced and he gave me the mark the nut answer, but he also gave me the reason that most of them leak and a remedy. He says most chevy rearends will have a groove in the yoke of some sort and that if you use a speedy sleeve with the new seal that it may correct the problem..... I'm thinking that could have saved someone $300
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