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Elec switch for backup lights on a Muncie

63K views 31 replies 17 participants last post by  427L88 
#1 ·
Several days ago there was a discussion about converting an auto tranny car to a 4sp and one of the questions was what to do about a switch for the backup lights.
I mentioned that there were a couple of options if a Hurst shifter was used. One was to use a switch that Hurst sells. The other was to use a 68-earlier style GM switch.

This is the Hurst switch which we have installed on my son's PG to Muncie conversion. The switch mounting bracket is attached under the locknut for the shifter stop bolt. We haven't connected wires to the switch yet. When put into reverse, the reverse lever on the Hurst shifter comes back and pushes the switch. VERY simple switch.


This is a common 68-earlier factory style GM switch which was attached with two of the side cover bolts. The required parts are the mounting bracket, switch, rod and retaining clip for the rod. Even though this is a factory style switch, it is a rather pricy repo. Several years ago, I bought the bracket, rod and clip from my local Chevy parts dept. I know they are available from the aftermarket sources but I don't know if they are still available from GM.
 
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#2 ·
Tom,I did something similar a few years back to my Doug Nash.I found a brake light switch from a Toyota car in my buddy's yard that he was junking.Drilled a hole for it and presto,we had working back up lights.Its adjustable as well and has the Toyota connector;

Guy
 
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#4 ·
Thanks Tom,it was easy & cheap to do.Needed a bit of fine tuning to get it to work 100 %,but works great now.
Guy
 
#6 ·
Hmmm, my M22 is out of the car now while the engine is being built...I have that Hurst switch so maybe now is the time to install it.
How should it be wired?
 
#8 ·
Locate the two wires to your existing backup light switch (probably under the dash on top of the steering column). Simply make an extension of those two wires to each terminal on the tranny switch. Too easy. :thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
Great Info!

Have an existing M20, BUT have a reverse lockout switch...I unhooked the reverse lockout b/c it got stuck and I couldnt get the key out...how could I get the reverse lights to work with bypassing the lockout?

Thanks,
Ron
 
#15 ·
I have a m-20 and bought a burst back up light but realized my shifter was a mr. Gasket. Any ideas how I can make this set up work. Your help is appreciated. It has the same hole but it looks like they don't line up very well. I would like to have this car up and running by the end of the weekend and want to do this first. Thanks
 
#16 ·
Here"s my home made back up light switch for my M21 with a Comp Plus shifter.

Some measuring, drilling, measuring, bending, drilling, cutting and presto. Simple but effective. :thumbsup:



Auto part Vehicle Engine Headlamp Car
 

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#17 ·
Great info!

R
 
#18 ·
The bracket for the Hurst switch is very soft. I used it but at first it would bend before depressing the plunger on the switch. I had to reinforce the bracket with another plate.
Other than that it works very well.
 
#19 ·
I converted from PG to Muncie. Went to local speed shop and was told don't order the expensive Hurst switch. Instead just get a simple push button switch, spring loaded. A little fab work on the bracket, and attached it to lower rear bolt of shifter attaching plate. $3.00 and an hours work. Nice thing about this set-up is shifter stop bolts can be adjusted with nothing in your way.
 
#20 ·
Just a final thought - when I converted from Sag. 3 speed on the tree to Muncie, I used the Hurst switch. Ran the wires thru the firewall, down next to the block and found/used an existing hole in the block to run a short bolt. That bolts holds a small, sheet metal tab I had around, which allows the wires to clear everything, run over the top of the bell housing, and to the switch.
 
#21 ·
This is the Hurst switch which we have installed on my son's PG to Muncie conversion. The switch mounting bracket is attached under the locknut for the shifter stop bolt. We haven't connected wires to the switch yet. When put into reverse, the reverse lever on the Hurst shifter comes back and pushes the switch. VERY simple switch.
Sorry old post... part numbers are awesome though! ;) By the way the where are they???

The O'Riley's plastic ones suck.. I knew they would, used it for a mock up.
Finding a waterproof momentary switch a not as easy as you might think.... :mad: EDIT - BTW - DON'T get this one!

 
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#25 ·
Exactly what I read about a dozen times... It’s a shame no one can make something that just works!

I already made a bracket that’s not a flimsy POS, really just need a good switch. :beers:
 
#26 ·
Maybe a couple little ‘V’ relief cuts, fold that side about ¼ in to make an ‘L’ shape and weld it back up? Not sure how big it is, I don’t have it yet.



This is 2 pieces of 16 gauge welded together and if I want it stouter I can add a fat washer on the mounting point.. :)

 
#27 ·
Follow up – the switch is perfect! The bracket is trash…(as everyone has said) I crushed it with one hand. The switch with MY homemade bracket is exactly what I was looking for! I'm happy now... you have to love when you are this close to being done that this is the stuff that drives you crazy :beers:







 
#28 ·
Follow up – the switch is perfect! The bracket is trash…(as everyone has said) I crushed it with one hand. The switch with MY homemade bracket is exactly what I was looking for! I'm happy now... you have to love when you are this close to being done that this is the stuff that drives you crazy :beers:
Good follow up. :hurray:

I finished my swap and didn't really care about having the reverse lights hooked up. Now that I've worked out the kinks and everything's working smooth, I'll be putting one of these on my car this weekend.
Thanks for the pictures!
 
#29 ·
Thank you Dan! I have to say though, that the switch (as awesome as it works) is FAR from being waterproof. Those 4 folds are NOT sealing that contact board at all and the thing will fill up with water and corrode faster than a dodge. :( Not that my car or most or ours will ever see inclement weather, at least not intentionally.

 
#30 ·
In the Marine world I used lots of liquid rubber. Various colors, mostly black and red. A few coatings painted on with the In-cap brush, and presto chango, its pretty well sealed. except for the plunger. Get creative and find a long accordion boot, slip it over the plunger.

The liquid tape is a great thing for many open electrical connections. Check out most any Merc outboard, all ignition connections with ring terminals are factory painted over with the stuff to reduce failure rates.
 
#31 ·
I am in the process of changing my old Hurst Inline shifter for a Long H pattern shifter on my Doug Nash 4+1 5 speed.
So I thought that I would update this thread with how I accomplished adapting my tried and trusty back up light switch onto the new shifter.
After mocking up the shifter I saw where I could mount a bracket to the shifter adapter plate,
I marked the location and drilled and tapped a hole,then found a piece of thin sheet metal and made a L shaped bracket.
The switch was hard up against the transmission case,so I ground a bit off of the case just to have a bit of "wiggle room".
Here are a few pictures;
Metalworking hand tool Tool Bumper Hand tool Metalworking

Grey Gas Window Auto part Metal

Tool Bumper Rim Wood Bicycle part


I wanted to keep using my current switch as it is already wired and has a connector on it.
Guy
 
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