Drive Line Vibration - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 2:44 PM Thread Starter
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Drive Line Vibration

After so many searches, and so much reading, I decided to open this can of worms yet again

So, here's the story. The car rides fine until about 40ish. Then you can start to feel just a slight vibration. Run it up to 60 and you can then hear it. It's hard to explain what it sounds like, almost like I have one nasty flat tire. But I don't. I'm around the 2750 RPM range there. At speed, if I put the trans into neutral, the vibration continues.

If I slowly creep up to 60 it's not all that bad, until I let off the gas. Then it's bad. If I'm on it up to 60 then it just builds up to being bad.

The list of things that I have in my head to check:

- Check tire pressure again in all, and perhaps have them balanced. How does a person balance tires this wide?
- Drive line angles. I tried to do this recently, but I don't think Im getting good measurements with the drive shaft in the car. To get real good ones I'm going to remove it then measure.
- Have the drive shaft balanced. It's a new shaft, but maybe it's built wrong?
- Check for bent rear axle. This could well be on the right track, as it appears one of them is dripping out behind the drivers back wheel
- Perhaps my trans / GearVendor over drive is causing some vibrations, I'll explain that in a minute.

The list of things that have been done recently:

- GearVendors OD installed with new driveshaft. The old one was junk. The installation of this unit made the trans / OD sit very close to the tunnel in the floor of the car. I clearance it during install, but I wonder if when I accelerate to a certain point this thing is moving around and transmitting vibrations into the floor.
- Rear shocks replaced with QA1 coilovers. I set them back at the same ride height.
- All ignition components replaced. I don't think this has anything to do with it, but it was done.
- Front end aligned. Still using what appears to be stock arms and shocks / springs.

This just started happening this year, and this is what has been done since.

Basically I'm just throwing this out there as a sanity check on my part. I am no chassis expert. But in reading I've picked up some of these ideas. Is there anything else i'm missing?

Any ideas that pop out to you guys would be appreciated! I'm determined to get this one fixed so that I can actually drive the car this summer rather than just work on it all the time.

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post #2 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 3:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Ah, also important info.

The car is back halved and tubbed with a ford 9" rear and strange axels.

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post #3 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 4:18 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Sounds like a bad tire or balance.
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post #4 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 5:24 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Also make sure that your cooling fan isnt faulty. out of balance
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post #5 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 5:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcutlass View Post
Sounds like a bad tire or balance.
I'm gonna take it down to the shop to have them check all four for balance tomorrow. Hope they can do something this wide.

Any luck with the old bubble balancers? For the cost of what it's going to probably be to have them do all four I bet I can buy a cheap one.
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post #6 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 5:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick87gn View Post
Also make sure that your cooling fan isnt faulty. out of balance
I can not tell if this is an attempt at trolling or not! Never heard that one lol.

Dual electric fans. So I hope not.

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post #7 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 6:29 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazarah View Post
I'm gonna take it down to the shop to have them check all four for balance tomorrow. Hope they can do something this wide.

Any luck with the old bubble balancers? For the cost of what it's going to probably be to have them do all four I bet I can buy a cheap one.
A bubble balancer will only accomplish a dynamic balance. It will not tell you if the tire is bad or the wheel is not true.

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post #8 of 55 (permalink) Old May 28th, 20, 6:59 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazarah View Post
Ah, also important info.

The car is back halved and tubbed with a ford 9" rear and strange axels.
Check driveline angles.
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post #9 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Uhhhhhmmmmm, well something happened today

I was on the way to the tire shop to have them balance all 4. Took off from a stop light, heard an awful noise and felt like the car was in neutral. Stopped immediately. Put it in park, still rolled. Knew something in the drive train was hosed. No E brake. =\

So I called the tow truck. Got it onto the bed. Snuck a peek under there quick. From what I know right now, the drive shaft was hanging at the back, by the pinion. Disconnected. Don't know what the failure was quite yet. The guy towed it to my house, and actually sat it right down on my lift for me off of the rollback. Which was quite nice of him!

I'm going to quickly finish up work and then get to investigating. My initial thought is that either the U bolt that holds the shaft to yoke back there was loose, causing the vibrations or whatever WAS vibration got bad enough to loosen those nuts and knock the bolt off.

The U bolt back there was a tad jacked lookin anyway, but seemed to hold fine when I put the new drive shaft in. Forced upgrade I guess. Hope that's all it is! Also pretty glad I have a drive shaft loop back there too Gotta look at the positives.
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post #10 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 1:27 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Matt, having the weak link break is possibly really good news.

I was going to add that I never upgraded ujoints when I had a Denny's shaft built. And when the needles wear out in those tiny ujoints, the vibrations come. On accel AND decel.

Its REALLY easy to overtorque those ujoints and start deflecting the bearing housing BTW. Got that from the driveshaft pro.

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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 1:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

As a true mid westerner, I must describe this in the amounts of OOF that come with it. One small oof, one medium oof and one perhaps very large oof.

Small oof, are the clips that are supposed to retain the U joint. Cheap to replace! Not so bad.

Medium oof, that drive shaft is jacked. Perhaps I can get it to a shop to have them replace the tube and U joint back there where there are no needle bearings or caps now, saving the yokes.

Larger oof, the third picture is the housing on the output of the GV overdrive. Looking towards the bottom, there is what appears to be maybe some damage to the outside of the housing. I'm going to call them today to get their take on things. If this has to be shipped back to be repaired, that is going to suck.

But - hey - drive shaft is out. I can measure the drive line angles now.........!
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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 2:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Worth mentioning, the two retainer straps were still bolted to the yolk. The nuts on one of them were hand loose, and backed way off. Perhaps a sign of what happened.
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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 3:14 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Those nuts ought have lock washers. In fact, I've replaced my straps due to the lock washers being flattened out. Cheap insurance.
Did the ujoint blow up? Never use one with a grease fitting BTW.


Be sure the yoke is still tight with a new joint. Dont wait until you have a new shaft ready to go in. BTDT. Had to replace a yoke.

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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 3:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

Oh. And this!

That yoke is worn enough that I'm betting it was the source of the vibration the whole time. Time to research replacing this too. =\
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old May 29th, 20, 4:06 PM
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Re: Drive Line Vibration

My $0.02 - I would be willing to bet that a strap (or both) coming loose was the root cause of the failure. The strap(s) came loose, the u-joint started walking around a little in the yoke, that was the vibration you felt getting worse and worse, finally they got loose enough that one of the caps was able to find it's way out and carnage ensued when the driveshaft followed it. That cap being loose in there walking around is also probably what beat up part of the yoke before the catastrophic failure.

BTW - I had something strange happen to me at the track once that caused a nasty vibration kinda like what you describe. After a Wednesday street night at the track, I made around 5-6 passes, and then as I was driving home and noticed a very similar vibration to what you had.

The next day, I crawled underneath and couldn't find a thing loose or worn or visibly wrong. So, I pulled the driveshaft down to check things out, and when I disconnected the rear u-joint, one of the u-joint caps that was bolted in the yoke had cracked into two pieces but was all still in place. It was a chunk about 1/5th of the cap broken off, but all still there. Everything was still tight too. Never seen anything like it. Replaced the u-joint and all was fine and good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazarah View Post
Oh. And this!

That yoke is worn enough that I'm betting it was the source of the vibration the whole time. Time to research replacing this too. =\
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