Part 16 How To Set The Clutch Fork Pivot Ball Height For The Big Block Chevy - YouTube
Gene, this video walk you through the process. Start at 4:20 for the set up process. The start of the video is good for review also.
You'll probably need an extended pilot bushing when using the Lakewood. Your trans input shaft should be supported by the diameter of the shaft. Shaft diameter is .590 so that's how much of the shaft should be supported by the pilot bushing. A straight edge and a little measuring will be needed to check this measurement.
At this point a critical inspection of the installed pilot bushing inside diameter is critical. You need a clearance of .002 to .004. Any tighter and you risk poor shifting as a result of the bushing and shaft grabbing each other. I use a .593 reamer if the bushing is out of spec. Installed is a key word as the bushings usually tighten up a bit after installation.
I've included a picture of the proper clutch fork angle (courtesy of Jody, he doesn't know it but his knowledge really helped me understand clutch set up). This is with the throwout bearing centered over the finger holes and held against the fingers. If you have this and you know your bell housing in aligned in the parallel plane and concentric, you're off to a great start.
With the Lakewood using an engine plate I generally end up using 2 spacers on the Mcleod T.O. BRG. On a Quicktime I really can't tell you, you'll have to eyeball it and YMMV between setups due to variances in the measurements of each part and finger height.
Your pivot ball should look like the one in the attachment. A ball with a flat on the end.
Measurements help get you close, it's the final part where you visually inspect your clutch fork angle that is most important.
I recommend red lock tight because an adjustable pivot ball that comes loose is not a good thing. It means pulling the trans again. Once it's set you should never have to mess with it again if you install the same components. A small torch is needed if you decide to disassemble in the future you just heat the ball a little and when you smell the sweet smell of loctite it will come loose. After learning the hard way I go overkill. Blue loctite may do the trick.
After you have everything dialed in and assembled, before you stab the trans, do a dry mock up run and check your clutch fork angle. You should have a 5-7 degree forward angle of the clutch fork with the t.o. bearing held against the fingers. The front face of the fork is very close to the Lakewood housing window. You can install the linkage and have someone push the clutch pedal while using an old input shaft or alignment tool to hold the disk in place. The throwout bearing is centered on the finger holes during this test. Keep your fingers out of the way, when pushing in the clutch. The t.o. bearing may kick off and take a finger if it's in the way.
The PDF below contains the same info in the video, they are worth a quick read.
Regardless of what Lakewood says, you need to use the stock Chevelle type clutch fork. If you use the Lakewood, truck type or HD type (ALL IDENTIFIED BY HAVING "WINGS") ON A PRE 73Chevelle you will likely encounter relaese issues as the longer fork will cost you travel at the throwout bearing.
This next video describes how to properly install the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. I include it because many people get this incorrect.
GM Release Bearing Installation - YouTube