No wings on the fork, Scatter shield with plate, 1969 Chevelle original BBC 4 spd car
Bummer. Pretty sure you'll need to pull the trans and set the pivot ball height with an adjustable pivotball or use and adjustable throwout bearing to achieve a proper clutch fork angle.
You may have the correct fork. You can measure it when it comes out.
When you install a scatter shield with block plate you need to make up for the difference in thickness of the new assembly. Even if you are using a stock bell housing this should be checked. Variances in flywheel thickness, disc thickness, and finger height often upset the tolerances GM gave us to work with. We have a finite amount of rod travel to work with to get proper clutch disengagement.
This video is a good primer of the process. The beginning info is good to know, setting the pivot ball height begins at 4:22. Basically we take measurements of the bell housing and flywheel and apply that to the known pivotball height for a stock bellhousing, flywheel and pivotball. Then we come up with an adjusted pivotball height to account for the variances we have due to the non stock parts. Before we slam the trans back in, we visually check the clutch fork angle. We want a 5-7 degree forward angle of the fork with throwout bearing installed and held against the fingers of the pressure plate. If you look at yours now, I'll bet it's well back of 90 degrees of the trans shaft.
Some more questions:
Which bell housing are you using?
Which clutch set up?
Is this a Muncie or???
Do you know what pilot bearing you are running? Have you checked to see that it is non magnetic and that you have an installed clearance to the shaft of .002-.003" We might have to install an extended pilot bushing since you are running a block plate. We'll have to do a measurement on the input shaft, then from the face of the bellhousing/transmount surface. We should have 5/8 inch of the shaft in the bushing. (BASICALLY, THE THICKNESS OF THE SHAFT.)
Has the bell housing been indexed or aligned? If not, I suggest you start here for a good shifting long lasting set up. Do parallel first, the concentric alignment. If it's off, your set up won't last long, you may have clutch disengagement issues, or shifting issues.
Have I scarred you off yet? Don't worry, it's not all that difficult and you'll be rewarded by a properly functioning clutch package.
Below is a picture of clutch fork angle. This one appears correct at 5-7 degrees forward. It gets a bit more difficult to check in the car, but it's dooable. You'll note the fork is very close to touching the front of this bellhousing. If you look at yours with the throwout bearing installed and held against the fingers of the P plate, it's probably pointed towards the rear of the car. There's no way you'll get enough throw to properly release your clutch like this. Thanks to Jody or whoever I stole this picture from.
I have a whole stack and I forgot where it came from.