I used a stock converter for 88' MCSS.
With the TCI lock up kit. (very easy to install) Just need the Right Brake light Switch. GM# 25524848
What are you using for a shifter?
I Put a 200R4 in my 70-1, and at the time changed from Colum shift to Floor shift.
I needed to pick up the Shiftworks peices to make the stocks Staple shiftier work.
This post may help you out. It has all the specifics.
Here You Go:
OVERDRIVE SWAP INSTALL 200/700
1. Install OD Tranny to Engine as Normal Tranny would be, Use 3/8 x 1 ¼ Hardened Bolts. The Dipstick Tube for this application will slide in from the top or you can pre-install it on the tranny before installation. Use GM part #10085252(7004R) see note below or for 200R4 GM#15531900 & 14024971. Install the TV cable before mounting up the tranny, Use GM part #25515598 for the cable and a 6 mm x ½ inch bolt to secure it to the tranny.
2. For torque converter to flex plate, use metric bolts, GM part #1261968.
A. If an Inspection cover is needed, GM#14092879 will work. It is the black plastic type.
3. Trans cross member as follows: Use same style tranny mount, as before but you must use metric bolts 10mm x 1 inch, Course Pitch.
A. Hard Top (open channel chassis)-- Slide Cross member back in chassis rails, loosely bolt to tranny mount, and line up cross member holes in chassis. You might have to drill one or both of the cross member chassis holes. Usually one will line up one each side and you will have to drill one on each side also.
B. Convertible (boxed chassis rails)—as the hard top, the cross member will have to be moved back, but at least one bolt on the mounting tabs (welded to the chassis rail) will line up. Loosely bolt up the cross member to the trans mount and line up a hole on the chassis tab on each side. (700’s) There should be enough of the cross member sitting on the tab to drill and add a second mounting bolt, do so. (200’s) If not, and the cross member hangs off the back of the mounting tab, then you will have to mock up and weld a mounting tab to the chassis rail to accommodate a second bolt one each side.
C. Tighten cross member to chassis bolts, then tranny mount bolts.
4. Drive shaft-- For 200’s the length will be correct, but make sure the spline count is correct for the slip yoke, certain years vary. For 700’s you must check the slip yoke as well, but the shaft must be shortened. For all applications, it is recommended that you measure for length, and then send shaft out to a drive shaft shop to check for proper length, new u-joints and have it balanced. To measure, jack car up from the rear end, not the chassis. Measure from the seal-mounting surface on the tail of the tranny, to the center of where a u-joint cap would be in the rear end. Give that measurement to the drive shaft shop and they will figure out what the correct length would be.
5. TV Hookup at Carb—For Holley Carbs use bracket #Holley 20-95, for Q-jet carbs use GM #3973000 or the bracket sold by TCI or Bowtie-Overdrives. Q-Jets Only>>>For the stud on the carb, change the ball type stud used for the old kick down cable, and replace it with Holley #20-40. For Holley and Edelbrock>>> Don’t just replace the stud, you must buy a “Geometry Corrector” linkage plate from TCI or B&M. This will allow proper ‘swing’ of the Holley or Edelbrock linkage and provide the Stud for mounting the TV cable. Slide the TV cable through the bracket and click it in, then attack the cable end the new carb stud. Adjust cable as follows: Depress the tab on the TV cable, located where the cable goes through the bracket. This will let the sleeve on the cable slide back into the housing. Once the sleeve slides back, stop pressing the tab, and move carb linkage all the way to full throttle, this will let the sleeve ratchet out to the correct position.
6. If you’re not using a lock up type converter your done. For lock up converters, you must install a lock up control. You can purchase a kit, or make up your own. I have a list of parts needed to make up your own kit, for half the price of an aftermarket kit, and it uses all GM parts. Will post later (still writing it up).
7. Complications and Recommendations- Above part # for the dipstick tube (700R4), may be the tube only, not the tube-dipstick combo. During my recent swaps I bought some parts from Bowtie-Overdrives, these parts fit well and had the GM part label still on them. The dipstick/tube combo had only one part number, and it is unknown how it will come when ordered from GM. I like to use GM parts when I can, this makes things much easier to fix things down the road or when away from home on a trip. I purchased all my GM parts from “GMPartsDirect.com” definitely the cheapest around. Bowtie-Overdrives also has a complete line of parts needed for your swap. The 200/700 debates still forge on, and I won’t go there, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Although the 200 does not require drive shaft modification, the 200’s mount location is farther back. This does not affect an installation on a hardtop car. However, on a convertible or other model with a boxed frame, this will require a fabrication and welding of frame mounts for the cross member.
200/700 Lock-Up Wiring Kit
1. Delay Valve GM# 14020691
2. Vacuum Switch GM# 14014519
3. Stop Light Switch GM# 25524848
4. Toggle Switch (optional)
5. LED Light (optional)
6. Transmission Connector Plug GM# 12085533
7. Vacuum Switch Connector Plug GM# 12101914
8. Miscellaneous 14g. Wire and Terminals
1. Ported Vacuum (zero at idle) is applied through a delay valve, then to the vacuum switch.
2. A 12v. “hot in run” wire is fed to vacuum switch.
3. The 12v. out of the vacuum switch, is fed to the cruise control side of the stop light switch. The brake light side remains the same as factory.
4. The 12v. out of the stop light switch is then fed to the A terminal on the transmission connector.
5. Optional, A toggle switch may be placed between the output of the stop light switch and the A terminal on the trans. This can be used as a manual lock up DISCONNECT, if a parts failure causes the converter to stay locked or as a manual unlock for racing. Use a high quality switch rated at least 10 amps.
6. Optional, A LED light may be placed in the circuit, this would be used as an indicator that the converter is locked. The LED will only light if power is applied to the TCC solenoid, AND when the solenoid is switched properly. The failure of the LED to light would indicate either a problem with the power circuit, or a problem with the TCC solenoid. To wire the positive leg of the LED would be tapped off the 12v. wire going to the A terminal. Take this from the point in the circuit after all other items. The negative side of the LED will be wired directly to the B terminal on the transmission. This B terminal is only grounded when the TCC solenoid is activated.
7. A ground circuit is fed to the D terminal on the transmission connector.
8. The C terminal on the transmission connector is not used.
9. See Diagram
1. At idle there is no vacuum to the vacuum switch, and therefore no power through the A circuit. The converter is unlocked.
2. At stable engine speeds, Vacuum will rise, at 10 inches of vacuum the switch will close allowing 12v. power to flow through the A circuit, locking the converter.
3. When cruising with the converter locked, it will unlock when “heavy” throttle is applied. This is accomplished when the vacuum switch senses a vacuum reading at or below 7 inches.
4. When cruising with the converter locked, it will unlock when the brakes are applied. This is accomplished when the power flowing through the A circuit is cut off at the stop light switch when the brakes are applied.
5. The converter will also unlock when you let up completely off the throttle. This will give no vacuum reading to the vacuum switch, cutting off power to the A circuit, unlocking the converter to aid in engine braking to slow the vehicle.
6. The toggle switch, although optional is recommended. This will let you keep the converter unlocked in the event of a part failure in this system. You can run with the trans unlocked, but can’t run if its stuck locked. So it’s a good idea.
#1. It has come to my attention, that with some TCC Solenoids in both 200's and 700's the LED ground as listed above will not work. You will have to run a regular chassis ground on the negative side of the LED. The only way to know for sure, is to wire it like the diagram and if it don't work, change the ground for the LED. (I just had to do that in my own swap)
#2. The lockup delay as listed is correct with the valve in place. BUT, due to individual vehicle characteristics the amount of vacuum produced will differ. For this reason the lock-up event may occur too early or too late. If this happens, you can try to use different EGR or spark delay valves, its a trial and error process. To delay lockup I recently used two of the valves listed above (one after the other).
Rob Mirabile TC #1079, ACES #4387,
President: LIChevelles #001