Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 65 (permalink) Old May 19th, 13, 2:50 PM Thread Starter
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Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

When I installed my 489 BB 2008 I upgraded the radiator to a 2 row alu and went with dual electric fans on my 64 chevelle. I also went with a 140 amp alternator and upgraded the wiring+a new distribution block. I used a milodon 180 degree high flow thermostat and since I never got the stewart water pump I ordered so I went with the only avaible option from a my swedish local speedshop without waiting a no name chinese knock of in a white box probably a Pro comp and this is the only part that isnt supposed to be a quality piece in my setup but since I think it is working fine no need to change it even though I have a new edelbrock victor waterpump waiting in the trunk for it to give up.

I used the temp sending unit that I had on the old engine and since the wiring and oem location was to the intake I placed it there and used the oem SS gauge and it has always been steady in the middle as long as i have had the car so figured that was fine even with the bigger and more powerfull engine so controlled them with a switch but also hooked them threw a thermostat switch(195 on/175 off) that I screwed into one of the rear ports on my air gap intake but never liked that it kicked them on so late.

But after reading all this horror stories about electric fans that arent able to cool and sending units in the intake(even though it was the oem place to 67 or 68 I think?) I started to worry about it and since i just trusted on the oem gauge that I never had checked or veryfied for its accuracy.

Got a brilliant idea and put the thermostat switch that control the fans in the head it just got me more worried since ones it had start running it never turned the fans on. Bought a new switch with 200 on and 185 off but still the same but it kicked the fans on earlier than the old 195 on so not sure it is accurate? Unluckily the old broke when I removed it.
The radiator was cooled from 2/3 and the to outlet when the fans is running as it always has been since I installed the whole setup 2008. I removed the cap slowly since it is a 16 psi cap and the system has some pressure when engine is running and I can see that the water is circulating so I thught the pump worked.

At the time I orderd the thermostat I also bought a 160 degree so replaced the 180 with the 160 thermostat and bought a ir temp gun to do some testing. Warmed the engine up and when the the oem gauge got to the middle I had 178 degrees on the thermostat housing turned my manual switch on and the temp gauge started to fall after a few minutes it ended at 1/3 vs 1/2 before with the 180 thermostat.
Checked the temp again with the ir temp gun and now the thermostat housing was 156 degrees the inlet on the rad was 148 degrees guess the lower reading depends on that the hose gets some cold air from the fans and that the radiator isnt completely filled even though I have it at right level or does it get filled to the top with the cap closed and the system under pressure? When I checked the temp with the ir gun on the block below the intake I got 178 degrees to and the oilpan was 179 degrees. Since the radiator feels cool from 2/3(lower than body temp more like same or cooler tham outside temp) I guess its very good since it sends cool water into the engine.

I have aluheads and the ir temp gun has problems meassuring on shiny metalls so hard to get a realible reading on them had to use masking tape on the alu radiator to get a accurate reading so couldnt get a temp on them but guess it cant be to bad with either 180 or 160 at the thermostat depend on its range, since it impossible to get the temp cooler there the the thermostats heat range when engine is up to working temp?

Anyway I guess I can stop to worry? With the 180 degree thermostat the thermostat housing hold 180 degrees and with 180 degree thermostat that is perfect? Same when I changed to the 160 degree thermostat it lowered the temp and I can idle all day long in traffic and hold 160 degrees with the fans on. So guess my cooling system is working?
Shall I change back to the 180 degree thermostat or stay with the 160?

The only remaing problem is how to get the fan thermostat switch work thought it would work pretty good in the intake? But since it sits in the rear port where it is not same circulation as the front that goes to the thermostat maybe thats one of the problems?
My headers are very hot when engine is up in working temp so guess that affect the switch when placed in the head? Regular manifolds never reach near the same temp as headers. Never cars with elctric fans have the switch in the radiator is that the way to go?
And what on/off temp range shall I get the switch in? And what brand is a quality piece?

Have I understand everything correct and is my cooling system capable of cooling my engine or has I missed something major? I have always thought it was working and has used it as it is with 180 degree thermostat for 5 years in highway driving, city traffic with stop and go and at cruise nights with hours of idleing in line-up.

I appreciate opinions so I know if Im totally lost in my thinking here.

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
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post #2 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 3:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

114 views and not a single opinion? My next plan is to try the thermostat switch on the intake but in the front near the thermostat.


Sweathon whats your opinion is my cooling system fine? Is both 180 and 160 ok at the intake next to the thermostat? Shall I stay with the 160?

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
Malibu ss 64 is offline  
post #3 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 8:54 AM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

If your engine will stay at 160 while it's running your cooling system is working well. I wouldn't run it at 160, I would use a 180 thermostat. I use a BMW 90/99 dual temperature fan control switch in conjunction with a Volvo relay to run my 2-speed fan. You don't want the fans to cycle on/off too near the operating temperature or they will run nearly all the time. My fans are never on while I am going more than 20 mph.

"For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM ...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
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post #4 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 2:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67 View Post
If your engine will stay at 160 while it's running your cooling system is working well. I wouldn't run it at 160, I would use a 180 thermostat. I use a BMW 90/99 dual temperature fan control switch in conjunction with a Volvo relay to run my 2-speed fan. You don't want the fans to cycle on/off too near the operating temperature or they will run nearly all the time. My fans are never on while I am going more than 20 mph.
With the fans on it can idle in line-up all day long and stay at 160. Ordered 2 new switches Im going to lab some more with.

Where is your fan switch located.

Still hoping Sweathon will give his opinion since he seems knowledge and was all his posts that start ro worry me.

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
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post #5 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 3:06 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Looks like it's working very well!! What alum radiator and fan setup is this?

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post #6 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 4:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownchevelle68 View Post
Looks like it's working very well!! What alum radiator and fan setup is this?
Alumitech with dual spal 11" fans. Since there was no BB 64s and I built it they way I liked I went with a 67-69 camaro BB rad instead of 66-67 BB Chevelle rad since I liked the crossflow look over the oem style with top and bottom tanks.

If you want to see how it looks do a search for my threads in heating and cooling and theres a thread showing how it looks installed.

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
Malibu ss 64 is offline  
post #7 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 5:24 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Marcus: You have an Alumitech rad with dual 11" Spals. You have run coumtless tests. Your car runs cool. You are fine.
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post #8 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 5:44 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu ss 64 View Post
With the fans on it can idle in line-up all day long and stay at 160. Ordered 2 new switches Im going to lab some more with.

Where is your fan switch located.

Still hoping Sweathon will give his opinion since he seems knowledge and was all his posts that start ro worry me.

Marcus
My fan switch is located right next to the thermostat. You want to have your control points close to each other.
When my engine is at 160 my fan is off. There is no reason to have your fan on at that temperature.

"For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM ...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
Semper Fi! L/Cpl Edwin L. "Tim" Craft, B Co 3rd AT's, Khe Sanh Combat Base, February, 1968
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post #9 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 6:57 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu ss 64 View Post
With the fans on it can idle in line-up all day long and stay at 160.

I can't understand why you think there is a problem if it can idle "all day long" and stay at 160 degrees. IMHO this is a case where the fans work and all the debate is well... just hot air (no pun intended) if the engine stays cool. To me your words are proof positive that the fans work. There will always be folks who don't have good luck with E-Fans and others who read the horror stories and take them to heart. That said using an old American axiom "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

If there are issues on the highway that is another matter but usually things screw up at low speed or at idle.

Last edited by oman; May 20th, 13 at 9:49 PM.
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post #10 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:07 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by burrodebo View Post
Marcus: You have an Alumitech rad with dual 11" Spals. You have run coumtless tests. Your car runs cool. You are fine.
Yup I gotta agree. All the debate ends, at least in the case of this particular car, when this car stays cool. There are no end of valid comments and criticisms but the other side of the coin is that when it works it works. I suppose there will be challenges to the numbers reported and even if the numbers on the gauge are not dead accurate for the actual water temp I think the temp is with in bounds.

Ya can't get in a mode where you doubt that the light goes off inside the fridge..all ya do is keep opening the door and proving nothing. The OP likely has it workin right and IMHO he can relax.
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post #11 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67 View Post
My fan switch is located right next to the thermostat. You want to have your control points close to each other.
When my engine is at 160 my fan is off. There is no reason to have your fan on at that temperature.
With the 180 degree thermostat I turned my manual switch on if I was standing in line-ups at cruise nights.
Going to try the new fan switch closer to the thermostat and see if I can get it to work better.
I know 160 is cold but like I wrote in my first post I tried one cause I got afraid of all horrible stories with e-fans not able to cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman View Post
I can't understand why you think there is a problem if it can idle "all day long" and stay at 160 degrees. IMHO this is a case where the fans work and all the debate is well... just hot air (no pun intended) if the engine stays cool. To me your words are proof positive that the fans work. There will always be folks who don't have good luck with E-Fans and others who read the horror stories and take them to heart. That said using an old American axiom "If it is broke don't fix it"

If there are issues on the highway that is another matter but usually things screw up at low speed or at idle.

Like I said got scared by all the horror stories before I read all them I was sure it was working but got unsure, so had to try the 160 thermostat and check with a ir gun and just wanted to vent this so I didnt overlooked anything.

The shroud has flaps and it stays cool at highway speeds too.

Started this thread to be sure since there seems to be alot of troubles with e-fans.


Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
Malibu ss 64 is offline  
post #12 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:32 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

If your car was exhibiting the same cooing behavior with a stock fan, Hayden 2747 thermal clutch, stock radiator, and stock shroud how would you feel? Would you trust it?
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post #13 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman View Post
Yup I gotta agree. All the debate ends, at least in the case of this particular car, when this car stays cool. There are no end of valid comments and criticisms but the other side of the coin is that when it works it works. I suppose there will be challenges to the numbers reported and even if the numbers on the gauge are not dead accurate for the actual water temp I think the temp is with in bounds.

Ya can't get in a mode where you doubt that the light goes off inside the fridge..all ya do is keep opening the door and proving nothing. The OP likely has it workin right and IMHO he can relax.
The temp readings I have reported was from my ir temp gun, guess it is more acurate than a regular temp gauge? Anyway the are close match to the thermostat temps and they are intake temps that is cooler than head temps. The other reason except all horror stories that I got a bit unsure about my cooling system was that I had trusted a oem gauge with no scale. Most amazing is that the chinese white box waterpump works so well(now its probably going to fail since I wrote this).

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
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post #14 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:38 PM
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Most guys wish a stock mechanical fan system worked this good.

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post #15 of 65 (permalink) Old May 20th, 13, 7:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Guess I can stop worry? Cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by burrodebo View Post
If your car was exhibiting the same cooing behavior with a stock fan, Hayden 2747 thermal clutch, stock radiator, and stock shroud how would you feel? Would you trust it?
Sometimes my worries get me to overthink and over work stuff to be sure looks like this is the case

Marcus

Chevelle Malibu ss 64
489 BB with parts from Lewis racing
Alumitech radiator with dual spals
Th 400 Edge 9.5" converter
57 3/4 wide 12 bolt: Eaton posi, Us gear 3.31, Toms KA 33 splines axles
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