Oveheating or NOT??? - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Heating & Cooling Heating, cooling and air conditioning

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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 7:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by 71350SS View Post
Using one of these thermostats

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...make/chevrolet

in my ElCamino,and yes it runs 180-190 all day long. No BSing. One thing about electric fans is that they usually aren't needed at highway speeds (on OE's at least) where the airflow through the rads is usually enough to cool the engine.If the highway airflow gets blocked by the elec fan shrouding it can in effect become a sort of an air dam when on the highway.To combat this most OE elec fan shrouds have multiple small reliefs somewhere on them to allow the air to pass through them when the fan is not running.
I don't know if this is your problem but it is something to consider if you're overheating is at speed.
I just bought one from Summit last night
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 7:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

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Originally Posted by lucifershammer View Post
Depends on where you measure it.

I have a 180 thermostat and my temp sending unit is in the intake. It reads 180-185 all day long.

I bet if I put the temp sending unit in the head it would be 200 or more. But I've never had an overheating problem - that's just where it runs.

Maybe I should move down to a 160 thermostat to lower the head temps? But it seems to run very well where it is...
So if I move my sending unit from the head to the intake, my overheating problems will be gone because the temperature there is around
180/185 degrees????
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 10:08 AM
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You don’t have overheating problems! From all the above, where you’re reading the temperatures from you are fine!
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 10:48 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

As was just mentioned, I don't think you are having overheating problems either.

I think you are just measuring head temps vs intake temps. Both seem to be in a reasonable range.

Now, if you move the temperature sensor from the head to the intake, your gauge will most likely start reading lower and might make you feel better - but moving the sensor won't change the temperatures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundhogjr View Post
So if I move my sending unit from the head to the intake, my overheating problems will be gone because the temperature there is around
180/185 degrees????

1972 Chevelle, 454, 200-4r non-lockup, 12 bolt 3.73
1981 Camaro Z28, 355, TH350, 3.73
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 11:05 AM
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Ed
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

To me, "overheating" is
1 - actually boiling over.
2 - temperatures continuously climbing when not under load, well over cruise temperatures.
200 is not hot, but if you have a 160 thermostat in, and coolant goes to 180, then when sitting idling, starts creeping up to 200,210,220, that is a problem.
Before I swapped out rad, and made a shroud, I had a 160, coasting down a hill gauge would drop to 160-170, then idling in traffic creeping in drive, it would keep climbing, and who knows if it ever would stop. Never boiled over, but it got HOT, well past 220. This is all on a electric SW temp gauge with sender in drivers side of intake. My FiTech reads maybe 15 lower, on the passenger side of the intake, I assume due to the return from the heater core cooling down that side.

If you have a steady temperature that isn't too hot, like say 5-10 over thermostat value in the rad, I would be happy with it.

1967 El Camino Malibu - Deepwater Blue
ZZ4 350, FiTech 600 complete!,Roadmaster tank, 700R4, Underdash A/C in progress, JGC Steering, 1990s truck serpentine.
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Ok I just did the Meat Thermometer test. I began by doing the boiled water test first. The reading was very close to the boiling point (209/210). Good enough.

Stuck the meter in the radiator, started her up. Thermostat (180*) opened before the gauge in the car read 180*. The electric fans came on at 206 on the gauge, 180 on the Meat Thermometer. With the fans running, it cooled down he coolant to 160*. I let it idle and the temp on the gauge was constant at 203.
The fans never shut off.
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 1:44 PM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

If you're not moving the fans won't shut off and they shouldn't unless it cools it fast enough.When you're going over 35 MPH the fans really aren't needed and then should turn off.
Think about this though,just using a normal radiator cap raise's the boiling point of water 3 degrees for every 1 PSI above atmospheric.A 12-15 lb. radiator cap will raise the 212* boiling point of water by about 25-30 degrees.Adding an overflow tank will give the expanded hot antifreeze or water a place to go rather than just losing it.The 83 to 87 MonteCarlo overflow tank fits Chevelle's perfectly.If you're using straight water then adding a water pump lube or something similar should help to keep rusting down to a minimum.
Just a few things that may help.
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 2:15 PM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundhogjr View Post
I've had this problem for a while. Every time I talk with other car guys, they say "Oh my car runs all day at 180/185, no problem". Now not to be a smart ass, but come on not every body is telling the truth.
These are the same guys that get 18/20 mpg with 600+ HP big blocks.

I feel 100 percent sure that you do not have a over heating problem.

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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 2:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by 71350SS View Post
If you're not moving the fans won't shut off and they shouldn't unless it cools it fast enough.When you're going over 35 MPH the fans really aren't needed and then should turn off.
Think about this though,just using a normal radiator cap raise's the boiling point of water 3 degrees for every 1 PSI above atmospheric.A 12-15 lb. radiator cap will raise the 212* boiling point of water by about 25-30 degrees.Adding an overflow tank will give the expanded hot antifreeze or water a place to go rather than just losing it.The 83 to 87 MonteCarlo overflow tank fits Chevelle's perfectly.If you're using straight water then adding a water pump lube or something similar should help to keep rusting down to a minimum.
Just a few things that may help.
I have a 16 lb Radiator Cap
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 3:39 PM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundhogjr View Post
Ok I just did the Meat Thermometer test. I began by doing the boiled water test first. The reading was very close to the boiling point (209/210). Good enough.

Stuck the meter in the radiator, started her up. Thermostat (180*) opened before the gauge in the car read 180*. The electric fans came on at 206 on the gauge, 180 on the Meat Thermometer. With the fans running, it cooled down he coolant to 160*. I let it idle and the temp on the gauge was constant at 203.
The fans never shut off.
[Opinion]
20 degree drop sounds good to me, and as long as temps hold I would be happy with that. Under pressure, if anything, it should be better. So either move the sender so the gauge matches coolant numbers or ignore it, and say anything under 210 on the gauge is good.
[\Opinion]

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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 7:17 PM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundhogjr View Post
Ok I just did the Meat Thermometer test. I began by doing the boiled water test first. The reading was very close to the boiling point (209/210). Good enough.

Stuck the meter in the radiator, started her up. Thermostat (180*) opened before the gauge in the car read 180*. The electric fans came on at 206 on the gauge, 180 on the Meat Thermometer. With the fans running, it cooled down he coolant to 160*. I let it idle and the temp on the gauge was constant at 203.
The fans never shut off.
I went through this very same issue and i moved my dash coolant temperature gauge sending unit from the head to the intake manifold, while leaving my two elec. fan on/off switches in the cylinder heads. Now my coolant gauge on the dash indicates a more reasonable temperature, approx 20-30 degrees less than the cyl. head temp. More or less a comfort factor.

Jeff

64 El Camino Pro street, 496, T-400, 9" 3.73


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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 7:39 PM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundhogjr View Post
Who's Phillip and where is he located?
Me and in Arizona. My gauge reads 20 higher than the actual temperature. DD says it is because the sender is in the head. I am going to experiment with inline resistors to get it to read correctly.

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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 18, 5:33 AM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Something you need to remember about temp senders: it only measures the temp at THAT location. Elsewhere in the engine, the coolant temp might be 20* hotter [ or cooler ] with localised boiling.

Another point of interest. if you compare all the American V8s from all the car companies that use the same int/exh port layout, every one has different coolant passage configuration. Even within the same brand such as SB & BB Mopar that use the same port locations, the coolant passages are different.

With no 'standardising', it suggests to me that there are different 'theories' about cooling passage location & size; & it might be more of an art than a science.
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 18, 6:30 AM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Just curious, where is the factory sender in a 1990s LT1 with reverse flow. They flow to the heads then down the block, correct? I assume the sender is in the head, but never really looked when I had my 1994 LT1 Caprice.

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ZZ4 350, FiTech 600 complete!,Roadmaster tank, 700R4, Underdash A/C in progress, JGC Steering, 1990s truck serpentine.
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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 18, 6:50 AM
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Re: Oveheating or NOT???

Both my bb"s run over 200 at the head. I dont see a problem here. If you are running 185 at the thermostat housing how do you have a overheat issue?

64 Chevelle 496
64 F100 Street Rod with BBC /Chevy trapped in a ford body
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